Because the cooking habits of Iraqis were so strongly influenced by neighboring Turkey and Iran, Iraq is one of the only Middle- Eastern nations to lack a unique cuisine. Like the Turks, Iraqis love to stuff vegetables and eat a great deal of rice, lamb and yoghurt. Like Iranians, they enjoy cooking fruits together with beef and poultry.

While there may not be a distinct style to Iraqi cookery, there are several dishes that have their roots here. Masgoof is a well beloved dish, an outdoor barbecue of skewered whole river fish. Pacha is a slowly cooked combination of sheep's head, stomach, feet and other variety meats in broth. A popular side-dish, turshi is a mixture of pickled vegetables.

Historian Reay Tannehill reports that in the 18th century, the most famous chefs of Baghdad were Jews who had traveled in Europe. Upon their return, they introduced French and Italian influences to the diet of upper-class Iraqi families. Even today, one of the most popular dishes in Baghdad is lahma bi ajeen. Composed of circles of yeast bread topped with ground lamb that has been cooked in herbed tomato sauce, the dish was devised by a Jewish chef after he had visited Italy. Many young Iraqis prefer to call the dish by its popular name - "pizza".

The following meal will serve 6. Start with the dill meatballs and finish with the mint wafers.

Dill Meatballs

125 gr. cooked chickpeas
3/4 tsp. salt
1/2 tsp. each cardamom, pepper and dill seed
about 2 Tbsp. oil for frying
1/4 kilo ground beef
1/4 kilo ground chicken
2 cups chicken stock
2 eggs

Grind the chickpeas finely and combine with the salt, cardamom, pepper and dill seed, mixing well.

In a skillet heat about 2 Tbsp. of oil and in this brown the ground beef and chicken lightly.

Combine the meat, chickpea mixture, and egg, mixing well by hand. Form into meatballs about 1" (2 1/2 cm) in diameter. In a saucepan heat the chicken stock and in this cook the meatballs until done (about 45 minutes). Drain and serve hot.

Spiced Fish Soup

Note: If the fish suggested in this recipe are not available, substitute trout fillets
and/or bass fillets

3 Tbsp. olive oil
1/4 kilo onion, chopped coarsely
2 cloves garlic, chopped
1/4 kilo tomatoes, grated
1/2 tsp. salt
black pepper to taste
1/2 kilo gray mullet fillets
1/2 kilo heads of gray mullets
1/4 kilo each whole small red mullets and sea bream, cleaned

In a large heavy skillet heat the oil and in this saute the onions until well browned. Add the garlic, grated tomatoes and salt and saute for l5 minutes longer, stirring regularly. To this mixture add 4 cups of water and bring to a boil.

Place the fish in a large kettle and over these pour the boiling mixture. Sprinkle again with salt and black pepper to taste and cook gently for 45 minutes, skimming occasionally. Correct the seasoning and strain before serving. Whatever fish pieces that remain whole may be served with the soup.

Fruited Beef


1/4 kilo dried prunes, pitted
1/4 kilo dried apples
1/4 kilo dried apricots
1 kilo beef for stewing
3 Tbsp. olive or corn oil
1 Tbsp. each sugar and cinnamon
1 tsp. black pepper
1/2 tsp. salt
75 ml. tomato puree
4 cups boiled white rice, for serving

In separate bowls, soak each of the dried fruits in water for 2 hours. Drain well.

Cut the meat into cubes about 1" (2 1/2 cm.) square. In a heavy skillet heat the oil and in this saute the meat until browned on all sides. Add the prunes and cook on a low flame, uncovered, for 20 minutes. Add the apples, apricots, seasonings and tomato puree. Stir well and cook uncovered another 10 minutes. Serve hot on the white rice. On each portion distribute the fruits and ladle over an appropriate amount of sauce.

Lentils with Spinach and Lemon

1/4 kilo lentils, well washed and picked over
1/4 cup olive oil
1 large onion, sliced
3 - 4 cloves garlic, chopped finely
2 Tbs. fresh coriander, chopped
300 gr. spinach leaves, well picked over and chopped
2 medium potatoes, peeled and sliced
1/4 cup lemon juice (or more, to taste)

Place the lentils in a saucepan and cover with water. Bring to the boil, cover and let cook for about 20 minutes.

In a large casserole heat the oil and in this brown the onion. Add the garlic and coriander, stir well and then add the spinach. Saute for 5 - 6 minutes, stirring frequently. Add the potatoes, lentils and enough of the lentil cooking liquor to cover. Season to taste with salt and pepper, bring to the boil, lower the flame and simmer until the mixture is thick and soupy (about 1 hour). Stir in the lemon juice. Serve hot or lukewarm.

Mushroom Salad

1 kilo large mushrooms
6 Tbsp. olive oil
3 Tbsp. vinegar
1 tsp. each black pepper, white pepper and salt
1/2 tsp dry mustard powder

Rinse the mushrooms under cold running water and clean well. Slice thinly (including the stems)

In a salad bowl combine all of the remaining ingredients and mix well. Add the mushrooms and stir gently but thoroughly. Refrigerate and let marinate for at least 2 hours before serving, tossing occasionally. Serve cold.

Mint Wafers

2 cups sugar
1/4 cup milk
1/4 cup maple or light corn syrup
1/4 tsp. cream of tartar
about 10 drops oil of peppermint

In a large heavy pan combine the sugar, milk, syrup and cream of tartar and, over a low flame, stirring constantly, heat until the sugar is dissolved. Continue to cook and stir until the mixture comes to a boil.

Remove from the flame, cover and let stand for 3 - 4 minutes. Uncover and continue to cook without stirring until the mixture is at 240 degrees Fahrenheit (115 Celsius) (check by using a kitchen thermometer). Remove from the flame and allow to cool for 10 minutes.

Whip the mixture until creamy and then add the peppermint drops. Drop the mixture from a teaspoon onto aluminum foil to form small patties. Let cool and solidify before serving. Yields about 1/2 kilo of candies

© Daniel Rogov