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Even though Jaffa is an integral part of Tel Aviv,
many locals and visitors consider it a charming "separate part" of the
city and often set out with the specific goal of of dining there. For
that reason, I have decided to list Jaffa restaurants separately. -
Daniel
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Last Updated: 5 October, 2003
| Restaurant |
Rating |
Type |
Prices |
Cordelia
Simtat HaZchoochit (corner of Yefet 30), Jaffa. Tel. 03 5184668. |
*** |
French |
Moderate - Expensive |
| Named after King Lear's youngest daughter (the only
one who remained faithful to him), and located not far from Jaffa's
flea market, this is a restaurant at which an enormous amount
of care and attention has been devoted to decor and at which the
staff seems truly devoted to pleasing their guests. With lighting
provided almost entirely from candles, and furnished with tables,
chairs, candelabras, and even plates and silverware that seem
to have been selected from this and other markets with great care,
this is a place in which kitsch attains great charm.
Although my first visit, shortly after the restaurant opened,
was somewhat disappointing, several more recent meals indicate
that things are most definitely on the way up here. The opening
Parker House rolls are excellent, as were first courses of shrimps
in a porcini-rich mushroom sauce; Parmesan filled raviolis in
tomato and olive oil; and zucchini stuffed with minced lamb.
As main courses we were very pleased with the rich and luxurious
lamb casserole, the plump and flavorful house pork and cheese
based sausages served with steamed red cabbage and potato puree;
and a portion of clamari on a bed of goat's milk yoghurt. Excellent
service, a good wine list and often exciting dishes make this
a place well worth visiting. Monday - Saturday, 19:00 - 24:00.
|
Dr. Shakshouka
Rehov Beit Eshel 3, Jaffa Tel. 03 6822842 |
* |
Middle-Eastern |
Reasonable |
| More of an "eatery" than a restaurant, this always
crowded and noisy place features the simple but flavor-filled
dishes of Morocco, Tunisia and Libya, the nations of the Maghreb.
Best bets are the shakshouka (a spiced egg and tomato casserole),
the mixed grill of kebabs, shishlik and lamb chops, and the kubbeh
(burghul filled with meat, rice and pine nuts). If you are here
during the colder months of the year be sure to try the hot sachleb,
a delicious sweet beverage that will warm the soul as well as
the body. A fun place at which to eat. Open Sunday to Thursday
from 09:30 - 24:00, on Friday until the onset of Shabbat, and
on Saturday nights until 1 a.m. or later. Kosher. |
| Etzel Pini Ba Chatzer: Rehov Nachum Goldman 6, Jaffa. Tel
03 6822111 |
** |
Mediterranean |
Moderate |
| For more than thirty years Pini Levy held court
in Jerusalem where his small absolutely simple, alley-located
restaurant was an emporium much loved by carnivores. Not that
long ago he moved to Jaffa. Happily, there is nothing overly fancy
about the new Pini Ba Chatzer. With an ultimately simple décor
that includes a straw covered ceiling, lots of dark wood, a small
bar, a few green plants and candles on the tables, this is a typical
Mediterranean tavernna. Complete with taboon oven, the possibility
of dining inside or on the spacious terrace with a full view of
the sea and shunning false formality, even the dishes listed on
the menu, a happy blend of dishes with their roots in North Africa,
Spain, Greece, Turkey, Syria and Palestine, have a distinctly
Mediterranean flavor.
The very best first course offered is of a "salad"
of chopped beef and lamb served with Swiss chard and pine nuts.
Other very good mezes include Greek tzadziki; eggplant in pine
nuts and a spicy tomato sauce; sweet grilled peppers in a garlic
and thyme vinaigrette; Syrian style cabbage and celery with
sun-dried tomatoes; and another eggplant dish, this one done
Moroccan style with pickled lemons and the grilled chalumi-like
Greek cheese. As main courses consider the splendid offering
of young pigeons filled with the internal parts of beef and
mutton along with coarse wheat, pine nuts and lightly hot tomato
sauce, all coated with a rich brown sauce and then being baked
until the meat was virtually falling off the bones. All of the
meat dishes here are worth trying but keep in mind that Pini's
true specialty is in the preparation of offal meats. Service
is pleasant and responsive if not somewhat naïve but the
wine list is weak so do not hestitate to bring your own special
bottle. Portions are generous and prices are moderate. Open
daily 09:00 - 01:00.
|
| Margaret Tayar: Retsif Aliya ha Shniya 8, Jaffa. Tel 03 6824741. |
*** |
Fish and Seafood |
Moderate - Expensive |
| Fancy is something left entirely to the imagination
at this super- simple and not always spotlessly clean restaurant,
but people pour in both to enjoy the personality of the owner-chef
for whom the restaurant is named and the fine fish and seafood
dishes she prepares. Casual dining is the game here, but Margaret's
fish couscous is as good as you will find anywhere and her fried
and grilled fish are always as fresh and tasty as you could want.
Listen carefully to the waitress (a good chance it will be the
owner), and do not hesitate to order whatever she suggests. Open
Monday - Thursday 13:00 - 17:00 and 19:00 - 23:00 and on Saturday
13:00 - 19:00. |
Mifgash haBalkan
Sderot Yerushalayim 43, Jaffa Tel. 03 6830719 |
** |
Balkan |
Reasonable |
| Yechiel Philosophe, whose parents opened this home-style
Bulgarian restaurant more than 40 years ago, makes no claims at
being a great chef but admits to being "a damned good cook". It
would be difficult to find an eatery more simple or less expensive
than this one, but the friendly atmosphere and genuinely good
food make a trip to visit well worthwhile. Don't miss the two
different cabbage salads, the chicken stew, the moussaka (which
may be the best in town), the grilled lamb chops and the excellent
kebabs. Be sure to close out your meal with mint tea, stuffed
prunes and baked dates. Open Sunday - Thursday from 11:00 - 22:00
and on Fridays until 18:00. Closed Saturdays. |
Rauf et Atina
Rehov Kedem 81, Jaffa Tel. 03 6838555 |
* |
Fish & Seafood |
Reasonable |
| A simple but charming place, with friendly service
and dishes that are appropriate for a hyper-casual lunch or dinner.
The paper tablecloths and a fairly high noise level mark this
long established fish and seafood eatery as typically Mediterranean.
You may not find innovative or exciting food here but the meze,
the grilled and fried fish (especially the tiny little red mullets
known locally as "barbounia"), and the shrimp dishes are always
fun. Open daily from 12:00 - 01:00. |
Succa Levana
Rehov Kedem 72, Jaffa Tel. 03 6826558 |
** |
Fish & Seafood |
Moderate |
| This has always been a pleasant place at which to
sit, indoors during the hot afternoon hours, on the expansive
grass lawn with an unobstructed view of the sea and a seemingly
unending breeze during the evening and late-night hours. Happily,
now that chef Doron Asraf is in charge of the kitchens here, this
is a Mediterranean fish and seafood eatery well worth visiting.
Open with a mixed meze of finely chopped tomatoes with mint and
garlic; smoke-flavored eggplant with parsley mint and garlic;
rich, thick humous and tchina; light rich labane; lemon-rich tabbouleh
salad; tomatoes with sweet red peppers; lightly crushed Syrian
olives; and mildly hot Moroccan carrot salad. On my most recent
visit I was pleased by one main course of a blue-spotted sea bream
that was served on a bed of stir fried carrots, mushrooms, onions
and celery and another in which a whole young grouper had been
poached, split and spooned over with shrimps, calamari, whole
roasted garlic cloves, all served with a rich brown sauce based
on rich fish and shrimp stock. Open daily 11:00- 24:00. Evening
reservations recommended. |
Yo'ezer Wine Bar
Yo'ezer Ish ha Bira 2, Jaffa Tel. 03 6839115 |
**** |
Wine Bar-Bistro |
Moderate |
| Shaul Evron knows wine as well as anyone else in
this country and in the four years that it has been open his wine
bar qua bistro has justifiably served as a magnet for the beautiful
people of the city. Set in an old Jaffa building with Arabesque
arches and thick stone walls, the heavy wood tables, chairs that
intentionally do not always match each other, a few smoked hams
and sausages hanging here and there, and a large wall stacked
generously with wine bottles, it is perfectly clear that this
is a place in which food and wine engender discussion and a sense
of companionship. First courses on which I have thrived here have
been the pate de campagne; the tartare of salmon garnished with
a raw quail egg and salmon eggs; and any of the Italian style
mini-sandwiches that are served. As main courses, chef Avraham
Mazliach continuously pleases me with his corned beef (the very
best you will find in the country); cote d'agneau; roast leg of
lamb; and smoked ham, all of which are symphonies in succulence;
and the sausages served on mashed potatoes that offer absolutely
orgiastic pleasures. The selection of wines is excellent, many
at very good value for money and to close out your meal do not
miss trying a glass of the Age Inconnu Marc de Bourgogne of Joseph
Drouhin. The service is genuinely warm and friendly. Open Sun
- Weds 13:00 - 01:00 and from Thursday afternoon - Saturday open
non-stop. Evening reservations recommended. My candidate as
the very best casual restaurant in the country.
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© Daniel Rogov
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