Daniel Rogov's
Jaffa Restaurants

Even though Jaffa is an integral part of Tel Aviv, many locals and visitors consider it a charming "separate part" of the city and often set out with the specific goal of of dining there. For that reason, I have decided to list Jaffa restaurants separately. - Daniel

To be certain that you are seeing the most recently updated recommendations, click the "refresh" button on your screen.

Last Updated: 5 October, 2003

Restaurant Rating Type Prices
Cordelia
Simtat HaZchoochit (corner of Yefet 30), Jaffa. Tel. 03 5184668.
*** French
Moderate - Expensive
Named after King Lear's youngest daughter (the only one who remained faithful to him), and located not far from Jaffa's flea market, this is a restaurant at which an enormous amount of care and attention has been devoted to decor and at which the staff seems truly devoted to pleasing their guests. With lighting provided almost entirely from candles, and furnished with tables, chairs, candelabras, and even plates and silverware that seem to have been selected from this and other markets with great care, this is a place in which kitsch attains great charm.

Although my first visit, shortly after the restaurant opened, was somewhat disappointing, several more recent meals indicate that things are most definitely on the way up here. The opening Parker House rolls are excellent, as were first courses of shrimps in a porcini-rich mushroom sauce; Parmesan filled raviolis in tomato and olive oil; and zucchini stuffed with minced lamb. As main courses we were very pleased with the rich and luxurious lamb casserole, the plump and flavorful house pork and cheese based sausages served with steamed red cabbage and potato puree; and a portion of clamari on a bed of goat's milk yoghurt. Excellent service, a good wine list and often exciting dishes make this a place well worth visiting. Monday - Saturday, 19:00 - 24:00.

Dr. Shakshouka
Rehov Beit Eshel 3, Jaffa Tel. 03 6822842
* Middle-Eastern Reasonable
More of an "eatery" than a restaurant, this always crowded and noisy place features the simple but flavor-filled dishes of Morocco, Tunisia and Libya, the nations of the Maghreb. Best bets are the shakshouka (a spiced egg and tomato casserole), the mixed grill of kebabs, shishlik and lamb chops, and the kubbeh (burghul filled with meat, rice and pine nuts). If you are here during the colder months of the year be sure to try the hot sachleb, a delicious sweet beverage that will warm the soul as well as the body. A fun place at which to eat. Open Sunday to Thursday from 09:30 - 24:00, on Friday until the onset of Shabbat, and on Saturday nights until 1 a.m. or later. Kosher.
Etzel Pini Ba Chatzer: Rehov Nachum Goldman 6, Jaffa. Tel 03 6822111 ** Mediterranean Moderate
For more than thirty years Pini Levy held court in Jerusalem where his small absolutely simple, alley-located restaurant was an emporium much loved by carnivores. Not that long ago he moved to Jaffa. Happily, there is nothing overly fancy about the new Pini Ba Chatzer. With an ultimately simple décor that includes a straw covered ceiling, lots of dark wood, a small bar, a few green plants and candles on the tables, this is a typical Mediterranean tavernna. Complete with taboon oven, the possibility of dining inside or on the spacious terrace with a full view of the sea and shunning false formality, even the dishes listed on the menu, a happy blend of dishes with their roots in North Africa, Spain, Greece, Turkey, Syria and Palestine, have a distinctly Mediterranean flavor.

The very best first course offered is of a "salad" of chopped beef and lamb served with Swiss chard and pine nuts. Other very good mezes include Greek tzadziki; eggplant in pine nuts and a spicy tomato sauce; sweet grilled peppers in a garlic and thyme vinaigrette; Syrian style cabbage and celery with sun-dried tomatoes; and another eggplant dish, this one done Moroccan style with pickled lemons and the grilled chalumi-like Greek cheese. As main courses consider the splendid offering of young pigeons filled with the internal parts of beef and mutton along with coarse wheat, pine nuts and lightly hot tomato sauce, all coated with a rich brown sauce and then being baked until the meat was virtually falling off the bones. All of the meat dishes here are worth trying but keep in mind that Pini's true specialty is in the preparation of offal meats. Service is pleasant and responsive if not somewhat naïve but the wine list is weak so do not hestitate to bring your own special bottle. Portions are generous and prices are moderate. Open daily 09:00 - 01:00.

Margaret Tayar: Retsif Aliya ha Shniya 8, Jaffa. Tel 03 6824741. *** Fish and Seafood Moderate - Expensive
Fancy is something left entirely to the imagination at this super- simple and not always spotlessly clean restaurant, but people pour in both to enjoy the personality of the owner-chef for whom the restaurant is named and the fine fish and seafood dishes she prepares. Casual dining is the game here, but Margaret's fish couscous is as good as you will find anywhere and her fried and grilled fish are always as fresh and tasty as you could want. Listen carefully to the waitress (a good chance it will be the owner), and do not hesitate to order whatever she suggests. Open Monday - Thursday 13:00 - 17:00 and 19:00 - 23:00 and on Saturday 13:00 - 19:00.
Mifgash haBalkan
Sderot Yerushalayim 43, Jaffa Tel. 03 6830719
** Balkan Reasonable
Yechiel Philosophe, whose parents opened this home-style Bulgarian restaurant more than 40 years ago, makes no claims at being a great chef but admits to being "a damned good cook". It would be difficult to find an eatery more simple or less expensive than this one, but the friendly atmosphere and genuinely good food make a trip to visit well worthwhile. Don't miss the two different cabbage salads, the chicken stew, the moussaka (which may be the best in town), the grilled lamb chops and the excellent kebabs. Be sure to close out your meal with mint tea, stuffed prunes and baked dates. Open Sunday - Thursday from 11:00 - 22:00 and on Fridays until 18:00. Closed Saturdays.
Rauf et Atina
Rehov Kedem 81, Jaffa Tel. 03 6838555
* Fish & Seafood Reasonable
A simple but charming place, with friendly service and dishes that are appropriate for a hyper-casual lunch or dinner. The paper tablecloths and a fairly high noise level mark this long established fish and seafood eatery as typically Mediterranean. You may not find innovative or exciting food here but the meze, the grilled and fried fish (especially the tiny little red mullets known locally as "barbounia"), and the shrimp dishes are always fun. Open daily from 12:00 - 01:00.
Succa Levana
Rehov Kedem 72, Jaffa Tel. 03 6826558
** Fish & Seafood Moderate
This has always been a pleasant place at which to sit, indoors during the hot afternoon hours, on the expansive grass lawn with an unobstructed view of the sea and a seemingly unending breeze during the evening and late-night hours. Happily, now that chef Doron Asraf is in charge of the kitchens here, this is a Mediterranean fish and seafood eatery well worth visiting. Open with a mixed meze of finely chopped tomatoes with mint and garlic; smoke-flavored eggplant with parsley mint and garlic; rich, thick humous and tchina; light rich labane; lemon-rich tabbouleh salad; tomatoes with sweet red peppers; lightly crushed Syrian olives; and mildly hot Moroccan carrot salad. On my most recent visit I was pleased by one main course of a blue-spotted sea bream that was served on a bed of stir fried carrots, mushrooms, onions and celery and another in which a whole young grouper had been poached, split and spooned over with shrimps, calamari, whole roasted garlic cloves, all served with a rich brown sauce based on rich fish and shrimp stock. Open daily 11:00- 24:00. Evening reservations recommended.
Yo'ezer Wine Bar
Yo'ezer Ish ha Bira 2, Jaffa Tel. 03 6839115
**** Wine Bar-Bistro Moderate
Shaul Evron knows wine as well as anyone else in this country and in the four years that it has been open his wine bar qua bistro has justifiably served as a magnet for the beautiful people of the city. Set in an old Jaffa building with Arabesque arches and thick stone walls, the heavy wood tables, chairs that intentionally do not always match each other, a few smoked hams and sausages hanging here and there, and a large wall stacked generously with wine bottles, it is perfectly clear that this is a place in which food and wine engender discussion and a sense of companionship. First courses on which I have thrived here have been the pate de campagne; the tartare of salmon garnished with a raw quail egg and salmon eggs; and any of the Italian style mini-sandwiches that are served. As main courses, chef Avraham Mazliach continuously pleases me with his corned beef (the very best you will find in the country); cote d'agneau; roast leg of lamb; and smoked ham, all of which are symphonies in succulence; and the sausages served on mashed potatoes that offer absolutely orgiastic pleasures. The selection of wines is excellent, many at very good value for money and to close out your meal do not miss trying a glass of the Age Inconnu Marc de Bourgogne of Joseph Drouhin. The service is genuinely warm and friendly. Open Sun - Weds 13:00 - 01:00 and from Thursday afternoon - Saturday open non-stop. Evening reservations recommended. My candidate as the very best casual restaurant in the country.


© Daniel Rogov

[ BACK ]

Home | The Restaurant Guide | Israeli Wine  | Israeli Cuisine
Culinary Anecdotes | Recipes | About the Author | Whats New

The Discussion Forum | The Recipe Index

Rogov's Ramblings
" Daniel Rogov's Wine and Culinary Comments on the Rest of the World "

This site has been provided with FREE webspace by
click on banner to return to Stratsplace