Whether one thinks of Jerusalem's "Sima" as a not-always spotlessly clean steakia or a Middle-Eastern fast-food joint is of little consequence and, if the truth be told, this place offers pretty much the same fare as each of the other dozen restaurants to be found within a hundred meter radius on Rehov Agrippas. The place is too small, too noisy and too crowded to be comfortable; the salads are at about the same boring level as you will find in a hundred or more similar places throughout the country; the service is brusque, sometimes to the point of rudeness; and the atmosphere has a distinctly gloomy aspect to it. The lamb chops and steaks are invariably overcooked; the chips seem a bit greasier every year, and quality of the once excellent cole slaw has deteriorated in direct proportion to the age of the restaurant.

Despite my litany of complaints this is a place to which I continuously return for Sima offers what I consider to be the best mixed Jerusalem grill in the world. Chicken hearts, livers and spleens and bits of lamb fried with generous amounts of onion and garlic are only the beginning of the story for the real trick is in the seasonings that are used and the owners zealously guard their recipe. Whatever they use, the results are so splendid that world-famous chefs such as Jean Louis Palladin, Gerard Boyer, Marc Haeberlin and Guy Savoy have stood in awe of the dish and pleaded unsuccessfully for the recipe. My advice - skip everything else offered but order your Jerusalem grill on a pita bread. At about NIS 30 for a generous portion and a cold beer, you won't dine better.

Sima,Rehov Agripas 82,Jerusalem. Open Sun - Thurs 10:00 - 01:00 and on Friday until about 15:00. Kosher.

© Daniel Rogov