Daniel Rogov's
Jerusalem Restaurants

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Last Updated: 13 April, 2003

Restaurant Rating Type Prices
Arcadia: Rehov Agrippas 10, Jerusalem. Tel. 02 6249138
One of the ten best restaurants in the country.
***** French Expensive
Chef-Owner Ezra Kedem maintains this delightful restaurant as one of the very best and one of the most exciting in the country. His is a contemporary and light cuisine, one that relies in equal parts on French style and local ingredients, and that sets out to highlight the freshness and beauty of the products they are preparing through preparations that remain as simple and as subtle as possible. To add to the pleasures of dining here, the restaurant itself is a visual delight. Set in an exquisitely renovated old building in which the dining area is divided into intimate areas by stone arches and where even the stone floors seem to exude comfortable warmth. Among the best dishes I have sampled here were the grilled giant shrimp set on a bed of endive; a block of goose liver served with a vanilla flavored oil; the carpaccio of lamb; zucchini flowers filled with a seafood mousse; and raviolis filled with pumpkin puree. Buy why stop - other dishes that have delighted were the rack of lamb accompanied by lentils, mushrooms and whole baked garlic; a whole baby grouper that had been filled with fresh herbs before being poached; lightly spiced hot sardines; a terrine of goose liver wrapped in crisp thin strips of potatoes; and lamb chops served on halved, grilled small eggplants together with baked garlic cloves. The desserts are also good - try especially the tartlet of figs and apples and the chocolate cake served in a mango and passion fruit sauce. Open Monday - Saturday from 12:30 - 15:00 and from 19:00 - 23:30. Closed Sundays. Reservations strongly suggested.
Cavalier: Rehov Ben Sira 1, Jerusalem. Tel. 02 6242945 ***/**** French Moderate - Expensive

Chef Didi ben Arush has taken this charming and comfortable restaurant from strength to strength in the six years since he first opened and his is a style that highlights and never hides natural flavors, all while comfortably combining the very best of the modern and traditional French kitchens with the ingredients and flavors of the Mediterranean. Over the years the restaurant has maintained its lightly formal but easy going atmosphere, the service remains at a high level and the wine list has become quite good. Even the photos of Paris on the walls continue to give me pleasure.

Many of the dishes here are excellent, but among my favorite first courses are the sashimi of red tuna in a soya-lemon sauce, the veal carpaccio that is served with shavings of fine Parmesan cheese, and the Really excellent goose liver terrine. To bring a smile to your face consider as well the eggplant that is cut in fillet-like slices, served intentionally luke warm with a hot sauce of spicy balsamic vinegar. As an intermediate course give serious attention to the veal brains that are served in a lemony red pepper sauce with a few capers tossed in to add a much welcome and completely natural touch of saltiness and for main sauce you will not go the least bit wrong with the salmon fillet a la Troisgros (with a cream and sorrel sauce), the charolais beef in a delicious veal stock and pepper sauce or the coquilles St. Jacques offered together with finely diced artichokes and nuts, a dish in which the crispness of the nuts and vegetables and the softness of the seafood come together in ways that cannot help but please. Even the desserts are of a high level (consider especially the creme brulee and the addictively good hot chocolate cake. All in all, with great charm and excellent food, Cavalier remains one of my favorite places for dining. Open daily 12:30 - 15:00 and 18:30 - 23:30.

Darna: Rehov Horkanos 3, Jerusalem. Tel. 02 6245406. *** Moroccan Moderate - Expensive
The cuisine of Morocco has a justifiably good name, and "Darna" in Jerusalem is as fine place to sample this fare. So genuine is the atmosphere that the intricate Arabesque arches that separate the dining rooms, the exquisite clay, silver and brass serving plates and even the pillows that line the upholstered couch-like seats were imported from Morocco. The food is no less traditional. Open your meal with the pastilla, a pie filled with Cornish hen and almonds and you will know why Moroccans call this dish "food of the gods". Continue with the Harira Marrakshia, a marvelous soup that contains lamb, lentils, chickpeas and peeled tomatoes. As main courses, I recommend the lamb tagine with prunes and the couscous which contains chickens, onions, chickpeas and carrots, all perfectly seasoned with saffron, ginger, coriander, chili pepper and paprika. If it is not served automatically, request a small plate of harissa, the fiery hot sauce adored by Moroccans so that you can add as much or as little as you like to your soup or couscous. For desserts try the semolina cookies and the fruit salad with machia (the Moroccan version of pastis). Kosher.
Dolphin Yam:
Rehov Ben Shetach 8, Jersualem. Tel (02) 6232272
** Fish and Seafood Reasonable - Moderate
Situated in a beautifully remodeled building in the Nachalat Shiva quarter, one enters via an appealing courtyard to find off beige walls, arched windows and quiet lighting. There may be nothing fancy here but one receives a genuinely warm welcome in a comfortable setting where fixed price fish and seafood meals await. Meals open with a mixed meze of nine rewarding salads. Among the best of those are dishes of small cubes of just salty enough matjas herring in a sour cream sauce; eggplant that is grilled, scooped out of its shell and mixed with bits of red peppers and plenty of garlic and lemon juice; and really delicious tzadziki, small cubes of cucumber in a yoghurt and dill sauce. Also good are strips of grilled peppers that were served in olive oil with a generous amount of garlic; lemony carrots that is sprinkled over generously with herbs; rich perfectly smooth tchina; and ikra that was somewhere in style between Romanian and Greek. As main courses consider the fried calamari with a mustard and cream sauce or the coquilles St Jacques served with a garlic, sage and white wine sauce. There are several meat and pasta dishes on the menu, but one will do well to keep in mind that the specialties here are fish and seafood. Without pretentions but with great charm and good food, a place definitely worth visiting. Open daily 12:00 - 24.00. Prices are reasonable - moderate.
El Marakash: Rehov King David 4, Jerusalem. Tel. 02 6257577. * Moroccan Expensive
Showy and just a bit glitzy, this traditional Moroccan restaurant maintains a decor and atmosphere that is a close approximation of what one would find in its counterpart in Casablanca. The luxurious couches and chairs, the traditional large embossed copper table tops, the musicians, the belly dancers and the singers add comfortably to this ambiance and the food and service are exactly what one expects to find in such places. Meals start when one or more waiters deposit anywhere from eight to fifteen different small bowls of Middle-Eastern dishes on the table. The humous, tchina, six types of eggplant dishes, spiced and garlic seasoned black and green olives, cabbage salad, spicy carrots are all good. Main course specialties worth sampling are the stewed veal with prunes and almonds; baked lamb with a delicate sweet sauce; stuffed spleen; and small chickens stuffed with pine nuts, raisins and rice. For dessert try the flambeed crepes and the various pastries. Open Sunday - Thursday from 12:00 - 16:-- and from 18:00 - 24:00. Closed Friday and re-opens on Saturday night. Kosher.
Eucalyptus: Rehov Horkanus 7, Jerusalem. Tel. 02 6244331. * Middle-Eastern/Jerusalem Reasonable - Moderate
The greatest charm of this not overly formal restaurant is not that it specializes in preparing dishes based on the foods that have been associated with Jerusalem since Biblical days, but that the dishes are both unusual and tasty. Mallow, capers, grapes, figs, artichokes, and mushrooms, all of which grow wild in and near the city are all found in abundance here. Even the meats served, lamb and goose, are those that are associated with the city. The mallow soup or pie, the fish with caper sauce, the stuffed figs, and any of the dishes based on lamb and goose are all worth trying. Open Sunday - Thursday 08:00 - 16:00 and 18:00 - 22:30, on Friday from 12:00- 15:00, and on Saturday evenings. Kosher.
Fink: Rehov haMelech George 13, Jerusalem. Tel. 02 6234523. * American Bar Moderate
One of the best known and best bars in the world, Fink is to Jerusalem what Harry's is to Venice and Willi's Wine Bar is to Paris. So renowned is this bar that it has been said that any diplomat, politician or public figure who has never been to Fink is simply not worth knowing. No one has ever accused Fink of serving great food or original dishes but they do serve delightful meals, the components of which may be French, Yiddish, Russian or Mediterranean in origin. Side by side, one may find one person eating fried shiimps in butter and garlic sauce and another munching contentedly on chopped liver, while a few meters away a trio at another table may be having beef Stroganoff, fillet mignon with pineapple and bacon and tafelspitz (an Austrian dish of tender boiled beef from close to the tail) with horseradish sauce Open Sunday - Thursday from 5:30 p.m. - midnight and on Saturday night until midnight.
Hess
9 Heleni HaMalka Street, Jerusalem. (02) 625-5515.

** Meat (Jewish Delicatessen) Moderate - Expensive
With the physical appearance of a Jewish delicatessen on New York City’s lower East Side, circa 1930 - 1965, but with the distinct flavor and aroma of European sausages, soups and stews filling their air, there is nothing fancy about the place. But no one comes to such places for “fancy”. You go to places like these to feast, and considering that Marcel Hess’ family has been one of Europe’s most respected producers of sausages it is lagely for the truly superb platters of cold sausages, hot knockwurst and bratwurst, superb pastrami, fantastic liverwurst and good liver pates and good kneidlach soup that one comes here. Skip the glatt kosher veal brains in the style of French escargots and the liver which is often overdone and stay with the hot and cold sausages and other cold-cuts here and you will dine simply but marvelously. Open Sun – Thur 11:00 – 22:00 and Fridays but only for takeaway from 09:00 – 13:00. Prices are moderate – expensive. Glatt kosher le mehadrin.
Kohinor:
In the Holiday Inn Crown Plaza Hotel, Jerusalem. Tel 02 6588888
** Indian Moderate - Expensive
Named after the fabulous 60 carat kohinor diamond, a stone found in India and now part of the crown jewels of England, this remarkably attractive restaurant is owned by Rina and Vinod Pushkarna who also operate the Tandoori chain of Indian restaurants. Perhaps because of the limitations of kashrut and the demands of hotel guests, the food is considerably westernized. That should not, however, interfere with one's pleasure for the dishes are highly appealing. Among the offerings I have most enjoyed here are the tandoori chicken, lamb curry, lamb chops in green masala sauce. Don't miss the excellent Indian breads and the large variety of cocktails (including some that are non-alcoholic) that are offered. Open Sunday - Thursday 12:00 - 16:00 and 18:00 - 24:00. Kosher.
Mishkenot Sha'ananim: in the Yamin Moshe quarter, Jerusalem. Tel. 02 6254424. *** French Expensive
Closed temporarily for renovations.
Paradiso:
Keren HaYesod 36, Jerusalem. Tel 02 5634805
*/** Café-Restaurant Reasonable
An attractive, comfortable and uncluttered café-restaurant with a relaxed atmosphere and a friendly crowd that comes either for coffee and pastries or for full meals. Consider the antipasto platter as a starter - crisp white beans sprinkled over with herbs; sweet red peppers and fried eggplant in a gentle marinade; grilled zucchini; breaded cauliflower; and good cabanos sausages all complemented nicely with good feta cheese. Among appealing main courses are the potato gnocchi in pesto sauce or the chicken breasts done in the Cordon Bleu style, by wrapping flattened chicken breasts around slices of ham and kashkeval cheese, coating the rolls with breadcrumbs and deep frying. A surprisingly good wine list and very pleasant service. Nothing complex or innovative here but a good choice for a casual meal at reasonable prices. Open Sun - Thurs 12:00 - 24:00, Friday 10:00 - 14:00, Saturday 12:00 - 02:00.
Philadelphia:
Rehov Zahara 9 and Rehov Shimon HaTzadik 1, Jerusalem. Tel. 02 5822472
*
Middle Eastern
Reasonable - Moderate
Long established and highly respected Jerusalem restaurants offering good mixed meze followed by kebabs, shishliks, lamb tagines or grilled, herbed fish.
Pini: Rehov Yaffo 31, Jerusalem. Tel. 02 6259570. ** Middle-Eastern Moderate
Many people think of this simple eatery as a "joint" but this is of no consequence for what matters is that for eighteen years Pini has consistently been serving up some of the best meals to be found in Jerusalem. Tucked away in the narrow alley that connects Rehov Jaffa to the area of Nachalat Shiva, this is a place ideally suited to satisfy the needs of those among us who adore meat. Whether one sits inside or out, on chairs or on benches really does not matter very much, for the narrow alley in which the restaurant is located seems to have a gentle breeze passing through it at even hottest hours of the day. Meals open with a mixed meze of crisp cold cauliflower, hot baby eggplants grilled over charcoals, a salad of wild pursane, crushed olives, and a plate of hot grilled tomatoes served with a tangy sauce with lots of coriander in it. Also put on your table at the same time will be humous, tchnia, lightly pickled radishes, and a dish of finely chopped cabbage that had been mixed together with a well seasoned tomato sauce, all of which are just fine to trigger the appetite for the meat feast to come. All of the meats here are cooked over hot charcoals. The lamb kebabs and shishliks are seasoned and cooked perfectly and the lamb chops so tender they will melt your heart. If you like specialty cuts of meat, this is definitely the place for you, for the lungs, diaphragm and kidneys that are served are all tender, without a trace of fat and marvelously tasty. Wines are offered but the drink of choice of the most knowledgeable diners here is invariably beer. Not to be missed. Open daily 12:00 -24:00.
Primavera:
In the Sheraton Plaza Hotel, Jerusalem. Tel 02 6298666.
**/*** Italian Moderate
Since it opened, nearly 9 years ago, this primarily pasta, fish and dairy based Italian restaurant has done a consistently excellent job. The cold potato and artichoke salad, the fish carapaccio and the onion soup make good first courses and among my main course favorites are the fillets of Saint Peter fish a la Florentine (sauteed and served on a bed of lettuce) and the linguini in pesto sauce. Comfortable and not overly formal, with good service, you will find that nearly every dish here is prepared with care and imagination. Worth trying for a casual lunch or a more formal dinner. Open Sunday - Thursday 12:30 - 15:00 and 18:30 - 23:00 and on Saturday from 21:00 - midnight. Kosher.
Rama's Kitchen: In the village of Nataf. Tel. 02 5700954 *** French-Middle Eastern Moderate
Located in Nataf, not far from Abu Ghosh, I would recommend visiting this country restaurant even if it had nothing more to offer than its exquisite panoramic view of the surrounding mountains, wadis and villages. The philosophy of the house is crystal clear: fresh products, almost all of them local; vegetables that were picked the same morning, many from the restaurant's own gardens; and dishes prepared as lightly as possible, all coming together in a never pretentious and often fascinating blend between the Provencal cookery that owner-cook Rama Ben-Tzvi so adores and the Arabic cookery that is indigenous to the area. Among other dishes that have pleased me here are the ful beans that are lightly oiled and seasoned before being baked in a taboon oven; goats' cheeses on dark bread sprinkled over with herbs and toasted in the oven; plump grilled chicken livers sprinkled over with balsamic vinegar and coarse salt; young lamb cut in cubes, seasoned in the Iraqi fashion (with nutmeg, black pepper, coriander, cumin, cloves, cinnamon, cardamom, chili pepper and paprika) and served ona long flat bread; and the confit avaz. Best bets for dessert are the pear or other fruit tarts with frangipane cream and the fruit sorbets. A short but interesting wine list adds to the charm of the place. Open only between Passover and Succoth, Friday 10:00 - 24:00 and on nights of the full moon. Can also be reserved for special parties
Sakura. Rehov Yaffo 31 (in the Feingold Court), Jerusalem. Tel. 02 5235464. **/*** Japanese Moderate
Happily without pretensions but by serving Japanese food that is invariably appealing, this has become a well-deserved favorite of Jerusalemites. Frankly, everything you taste here will be good. Better yet, it will be genuinely Japanese in its flavors and style. My own favorite meal (always shared with three others) here consists (in no special order) of miso soup, generous portions of sushi (which may be the very best in Israel), at least one of the cold noodle dishes, the soba (boiled noodles that go very well indeed with the soup that accompanies it) and then at least a few of the teppanyaki, tempura, sukiyaki and teriyaki style dishes that are offered. Owner-cook Boaz Tsairi is doing a good job here and the reasonable prices he stays with endear him to my heart. Open Sunday - Friday 12:00 - 23:00.
Shonka.
Rehov HaSoreg 1, Jerusalem. Tel. 02 6257033
*** French-Mediterranean-Italian Moderate - Expensive
Without apologies, I like this place!! Distinctly New York in style and featuring chef Naziya Genedi's interpretations of French, Italian and Mediterranean cuisine, this is a restaurant that pleases by being both popular and very good indeed. Dedicated to producing the kinds of dishes that we think of as old friends, Genedi never shocks but often pleases by his obvious respect for the ingredients he is using and his excellent control over his cooking times. Among the first courses dishes I have most enjoyed here are goose liver escalope in cassis and berry sauce, the carpaccio of drumfish with a beautiful lemon-orange juice sauce, and the shrimps with whole garlic cloves and rosemary. For main courses you will not go the least bit wrong with the veal escalopes in a lemon, white wine and thyme sauce, the mixed seafood (shrimps, mussels and calamari) in a well executed tomato, garlic and herb based Provencal sauce, or the entrecote in a delicious pepper sauce. Skip the sorbets but for dessert try the tarte Tatin or the chocolate cake that is so rich that it is probably sinful. A good wine list but be sure to consider the 1998 Gustavo and Jo Cabernet Sauvignon that is a good match to either meat or seafood. Dinner prices are moderate to expensive, but the business lunch menu, which wisely offers many of the same dishes that are listed on the a la carte menu is an unbeatably good deal. Open daily from 12:00 - 02:00 or later but be sure to dine before 22:00 as after that the bar, light snack, music and dance and boy meets girl, boy meets boy and girl meets girl scenes become the dominating themes.
Sima:
Rehov Agrippas 82, Jerusalem. Tel. 02 6233002
* Middle-Eastern Reasonable
Despite its ultimately simple atmosphere, this Jerusalem landmark is nearly always packed, and most come here to feast on "Jerusalem grill" - a mixture of chicken hearts and livers with bits of lamb, all of which have been seasoned marvelously before being fried with generous amounts of onion and garlic. Also worth trying are the grilled meats, all of which are accompanied by really good cole slaw, pickles, olives, and Turkish salad. Mostly for lunch. Open 10:00 - 01:00. Closed Friday night and Saturday until the end of the Sabbath. Kosher.
Spaghettim:
Rehov Rabbi Akiva 8, Jerusalem. Tel. 02 6235547.
* Italian Reasonable
The menu of this simple but charming restaurant lists one or two soups, two salads and 58 different kinds of spaghetti, including several sweet spaghetti dishes for dessert. All of which might sound a bit outrageous but in fact, this is one of the most "fun places" for casual dining in the city. Among my own favorites, the spaghetti Napolitana with herbs; the carbonara with bacon, ham, white wine, nutmet and cream; the arvieta with tomatoes, sweet red and green peppers, hot peppers and garlic. What the heck, all of the dishes are well made and there is enough choice that you're bound to find several that beckon. The service is friendly, and the food comes in generous portions. Open daily from 12:00 - 01:00. (Branch in Tel Aviv also recommended)
Vaqueiro
54 HaNeve'eem St., Jerusalem. Tel: 02 6247432
* Grilled Meats Reasonable
Somewhere in style between a South American churasca and a South African bra'ai, this appealing restaurant features a large grill on which a variety of meats are prepared and then served on large skewers at your table. Nothing outrageously creative about the salads that are offered to start your meal but many are quite tempting. Among the best that will be served automatically are fennel and oranges in a light mustard vinaigrette; peppers and squash with balsamic vinegar; carrots and beans in a nicely seasoned and just spicy enough sauce; and celery and apples that adds a nice touch of sweetness. The meats will be served without cessation so long as your appetite holds up. Best of these are the assado (fatty side of beef ribs), entrecote, spicy chicken wings, and just fatty and spicy enough boer wors and chorizo sausages. Good chimicurri and barbecue sauce are set out and the meats are served with potatoes that after baking in the oven are cubed, fried and nicely browned. If grilled meats do not beckon, don't hesitate to try the country-style stews, the best among which are chopped beef with herbed tomato sauce, onions and carrots and another of chicken seasoned nicely with cinnamon. Forget the hamburger! Simple but tasty desserts (apple and lemon custard pieces, and hot chocolate cake) and warm friendly service. Prices are reasonable at both lunch and dinner. A good bet for occasional simple but pleasant dining for those who live or work in Jerusalem and a good option for those passing through. Open Sun - Thurs 12:30 - 16:30 and 18:30 - 23:00. Kosher.

© Daniel Rogov

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