The Yiddish kitchen is not a complex one. In fact, the cookery most often associated with Jews was devised by the people who inhabited the shtetls, the small, often isolated towns of Central and Eastern Europe. Basically, Jewish food is the food of country-folk and, because these were people who lived simply, there was little time for fineries and frills.

Wealth was rarely an issue in the shtetls. It was quite enough to worry about whether there would be enough money to purchase a fish for the Shabbat dinner. The dishes that evolved were thus based on foods that were readily available, not overly expensive, and at least relatively easy to prepare. There was no need to develop a large repertoire of sauces, and fancy was something left to individual imagination. In most homes, cookery was also bound by the rules of kashrut.

None of which stopped the evolution of an original, variegated cuisine. It also led to a style of cooking that prized everything and wasted nothing. From a single chicken came eggs, soup, stock, fat for future cooking, griebenes (chicken cracklings, often thought of as the Jewish caviar), stuffed crepes and, with just a bit of luck, a meal of leftovers.

Nor is there anything lean, light or subtle about traditional Jewish food. A dish such as cholent assaults the nostrils, hits you on the head, makes its way to the stomach with a thump, there to sit rather heavily for several hours. It is packed with cholesterol, relies on many fried ingredients, and ignores nearly all of the rules of "refined cuisine." And it is absolutely marvelous.

Such dishes do more than merely delight the palate. Serving as the heartland of nostalgia for millions of Jews, whether they find themselves on Tel Aviv's Rehov Sokolov, Boro Park's 13th Avenue or San Francisco's Lincoln Street, there are few cuisines more valued.

There are those who claim that the Jewish kitchen is now passe. They are wrong. Unless otherwise noted, the following recipes, will serve 6 - 8.

Salt Herring with Apples

8 salt herring fillets
3/4 cup vinegar
2 whole bay leaves
l tsp. sugar
8 whole peppercorns
1 cup sour cream
3/4 tsp. prepared mustard
2 Tbsp. mayonnaise
2 apples, peeled, cored and sliced
2 medium onions, sliced thinly

Soak the herring fillets overnight in water, changing the water several times. Drain and cut the fillets into 1" (2 1/2 cm.) slices.

In a saucepan combine the vinegar, bay leaves, sugar and peppercorns. Cover and boil for 5 minutes. Set aside to cool for 15 minutes. Add the sour cream, mustard and mayonnaise, mixing well.

In a mixing bowl mix the apples and onions and over these pour 1 1/2 cups of boiling water. Let steep for 10 minutes and then drain.

In a large-mouthed jar alternate layers of herring with layers of apples and onions. Pour the marinade over and close tightly. Refrigerate for 3 - 4 days before serving. Serve cold as an appetizer.

Calf's Foot Jelly

1 calf's foot, cut in pieces
2 small onions
2 carrots
4 cloves garlic, crushed
1/2 tsp. each salt and pepper
2 hard boiled eggs
lemon wedges for serving

Put the foot pieces in a saucepan and pour over water to cover. On a high flame bring to a boil and let boil rapidly for 2 - 3 minutes. Discard the water and cover the foot with fresh cold water.

Add the onions, carrots and a pinch of salt. Bring to a boil and then lower the flame. Cook, covered, on lowest possible flame until the meat separates from the bone (6 - 12 hours). Remove from the flame. Reserve the liquid.

Remove the meat from the bones and chop finely. To the meat add the garlic, salt and pepper and mix well.

Slice the hard boiled eggs and place them in a single layer in an attractive serving casserole. Over this distribute the meat mixture and then pour over the liquids in which the foot was cooked. The serving dish should be such that the depth of the mixture is no less than 1 1/2" (4 cm.). Let cool and then refrigerate, covered, until the mixture jells. Before serving cut into squares and garnish with lemon wedges. Serve cold as an appetizer.

Cholent

2 cups onions, chopped
2 kilos potatoes, peeled and quartered
1 cup pearl barley
3 cups white beans, soaked overnight in water
1/2 kilo chicken fat
2 tsp. each salt and black pepper
1 tsp. paprika
1 kilo brisket of beef, cut into 2" (5 cm.) cubes
1 kilo stuffed kishke (see following recipe)
oil for frying

In a heavy skillet saute the onions until golden brown.

Grease a large heavy saucepan or kettle. In this arrange layers of potatoes, barley, beans and chicken fat. Add the seasonings. Repeat these layers until all of the ingredients have been used. On this lay the beef and over this put the kishke. Over all spoon the fried onions and then fill the pot with water to cover. Bring to a boil over a high flame. Cover and seal the pot (with aluminum foil perhaps), and place in an oven at lowest heat. The cholent will be ready to eat after 18 hours but is best after 24 hours. Serve hot. (Serves 8 - 12.)

Kishke

3 feet (1 meter) beef casing
1/2 cup chicken fat
1 large onion, chopped finely
1 cup flour
salt and pepper to taste
1/2 cup dried breadcrumbs

Wash and clean the casing thoroughly, scraping off the fat with a dull knife and discarding. Cut into lengths about 8" (20 cm.) and sew one end of each length closed.

In a skillet melt the chicken fat and in this saute the onions until browned.

In a mixing bowl sift together the flour, salt and pepper. Add the melted chicken fat with the onions and the breadcrumbs and mix thoroughly. Stuff each section of the casing loosely with this filling and sew the second end closed. Rinse off any flour that adheres to the surface. Immerse in boiling water for 5 minutes and then drain. (At this point the kishke is ready for use in cholent).

To serve kishke alone, arrange the sections in a shallow, lightly greased casserole or baking dish and bake in a medium oven until well browned (about 1 1/2 hours), basting frequently with the drippings.

Stuffed Cabbage Leaves

oil for frying
4 onions, chopped finely
750 gr. ground beef
3/4 cup half cooked rice
2 eggs, well beaten
3/4 tsp. ground nutmeg
salt and pepper to taste
1 large head cabbage
1 1/4 cups tomato puree
juice of 2 small lemons
2 1/4 Tbsp. brown sugar
1 tsp. sweet paprika

In a skillet heat the oil and saute the onions until golden and transfer to a mixing dish with the ground beef, rice, egg, nutmeg, salt and pepper. Mix thoroughly.

Core the cabbage. Trim and separate the leaves and put the leaves in boiling, salted water for 3 - 5 minutes. Drain. At the top edge of each leaf place 2 Tbsp. of the stuffing. Roll the leaves while tucking in the sides.

In a separate bowl mix the tomato paste, lemon juice, sugar and paprika. Add 2 cups of cold water and adjust the seasonings. Place the stuffed leaves in a large saucepan and pour over the sauce. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat and simmer, covered, for 2 hours. Serve hot.

Grilled Herring w Fennel

6 - 8 herrings, about 225 gr. each
2 tsp. fennel
3/4 tsp. salt
6 Tbsp. butter
juice of 2 large lemons
olive oil for basting

Clean the fish well, cutting off the heads and trimming the tails. On each side cut 3 narrow slits. Mix the fennel and salt and insert this mixture in the cuts and body cavity.

In a low baking dish melt the butter. Add the lemon juice. Lay the fish over and turn once to coat both sides. Grill under a hot broiler for 4 - 5 minutes on each side. Baste once on each side with olive oil and the drippings. Serve hot.

Chicken w Prune Stuffing

750 gr. pitted prunes
1 large chicken, about 2 1/2 kilos
2 tsp. salt
1 tsp. each sweet paprika and black pepper
1/2 tsp. oregano

Place the prunes in a bowl and pour over boiling water to cover. Let stand 1 hour. With a slotted spoon remove the prunes and set aside. Reserve the liquids.

Cut away unwanted fat from the chicken and wash the chicken thoroughly inside and out. Pat dry with toweling and sprinkle the cavity with 1 tsp. of the salt. Sprinkle the outside of the chicken with the remaining salt, pepper, paprika and oregano.

Loosely stuff the cavity with the prunes, place in an ovenproof casserole and roast in a medium oven for 40 minutes, basting frequently with the liquid from the prunes. Add the remaining prunes and continue roasting until the chicken is done (about 40 minutes longer). Serve hot.

Babke - Chocolate Cake

1/2 envelope active dry yeast
1/2 cup milk, lukewarm
2 1/2 cups flour, sifted
1/2 cup sugar
1/4 tsp. salt
1/4 cup butter, softened
2 eggs, beaten well
125 gr. bittersweet chocolate
11/2 Tbsp. very strong black coffee
1/4 cup seedless raisins
1 Tbsp. butter, melted

Dissolve the yeast in 1 Tbsp. of the milk and let stand for 5 - 10 minutes.

Into a large mixing bowl sift 1/2 cup of the flour, 1/4 cup of the sugar and the salt. Stir in the remaining milk, add the yeast mixture and mix well. Cover with a damp cloth and set aside in a warm place for about 45 minutes.

Cream together the butter and remaining sugar and add this to the dough mixture. Blend in the eggs. Sift in the remaining flour and mix until smooth, adding flour if necessary to ensure a smooth, pliable mixture.

In the top of a double boiler melt the chocolate and then stir in the coffee and raisins.

On a lightly floured board spread the dough and coat with the chocolate mixture. Roll the dough over until a multi-layered roll has been formed. Place the roll in a well-greased baking pan, cover with a damp cloth and let rise in a warm place until the volume is doubled. Brush the top with the melted butter and bake in a medium oven for 40 minutes.

© Daniel Rogov