To Christians all over the world the holiday of Easter is considered the most holy day in the year. In Jerusalem, which has residents of more than 23 different Christian sects, the holiday has special meaning, because this was the Holy City in which Jesus preached his philosophy of love. It has another meaning as well, for even though the holiday, which marks the Resurrection of Christ is known in French as "Paques", in Greek, Arabic and Russian as "Pascha", few people outside of Jerusalem realize that the name of the holiday derives from the name of the Jewish holiday day of "Pesach" or Passover.

Theologians living in Jerusalem also realize that many of the traditions of the holiday stem from springtime pagan festivals that were observed as early as the 7th century B.C. During those days, members of the cult of Demeter, the goddess of agriculture, tried to guarantee the richness of the forthcoming grain harvest by undergoing a fast, sitting through an all-night vigil and taking a communion of barley water from a sacred goblet.

Today, in similar fashion, many devout Christians abstain from eating meat during the forty days preceding Easter. During Holy Week, the seven days before the holiday, some, especially members of the Greek, Ethiopian and Armenian Orthodox churches, even eliminate eggs, milk and fish from their diet. Communion is taken on the day before Easter, which always falls on a Sunday and, on Saturday night church services begin at ten in the evening. In many nations, one of the most beautiful highlights of the holiday is the rich, ceremonial midnight mass.

Regardless of whether one adheres to the teachings of the Roman Catholic church, the Greek, Russian or Armenian, or Ethiopian Orthodox churches or any of the many Protestant sects in Jerusalem, Easter Sunday is always a cause for celebration and feasting. The most beloved of dishes served on this day are based on lamb, for in addition to calling to mind the purity of Jesus, it also calls to mind the universal hope that "one day the wolf shall dwell with the lamb and they shall live in peace together".

Unless otherwise noted, each of the following dishes will serve from 4 - 6.

Apricot Stuffed Lamb Shoulder

For the stuffing:
4 slices of white bread, lightly toasted and
cut into small dice
1 cup dry apricots, soaked in warm water for 30 minutes
1/4 cup butter or margarine
1 medium onion, chopped finely
1 egg, lightly beaten
rind of 1/2 lemon, grated
1/2 tsp. salt
dash of pepper

For the lamb:
1 lamb shoulder, about 2 kilos,
boned and with a pocket cut in
1 tsp. salt
1/2 tsp .black pepper, coarsely ground
flour for dusting
3 Tbsp. oil
1 Tbsp. brown sugar

For the gravy:
2 tsp. potato starch or cornstarch
1 1/4 cups beef stock, at room temperature
salt and pepper to taste

Make the stuffing by putting the bread cubes in a large bowl.
To this add 2/3 cup of the liquids in which the apricots soaked
and let stand. In a skillet melt the butter or margarine and in
this saute the onion until golden. Add the egg, lemon rind, salt
and pepper to the bread mixture and then add this to the onions in
the pan. Cook over a low flame, stirring, until the bread starts
to brown and starts to dry. Chop the apricots coarsely and add
them to the mixture.

Sprinkle the meat lightly with salt and then pack the stuffing
in loosely and sew up neatly. (If you have purchased a flat shoul-
der without a pocket, lay the meat on a board, skin side down and
trim off lumps of fat. Spread the stuffing evenly over the meat
and then roll up and sew into a compact shape.

Place the meat on a rack in a roasting tin. Sprinkle with salt
and pepper and dust lightly with flour. Pour over the oil and
place in an oven that has been preheated to 350?F (180?C) and
roast for 2 hours. Sprinkle with the brown sugar, return to the
oven and roast until rich brown in color (about 30 minutes more).
Remove the meat from the rack and set aside to keep warm for 15
- 20 minutes before carving.

Make a pan gravy by pouring off all but about 1 Tbsp. of the
fat from the roasting tin. Mix the potato or cornstarch with the
beef stock and then pour this mixture into the roasting pan.
On a medium flame bring to the boil, stirring and scraping the
bottom and sides of the pan and then season to taste with
salt and pepper. Continue cooking and stirring until the sauce
is lightly thickened. To serve, carve the meat, spoon over a bit
of the gravy and serve the remaining gravy in a sauceboat.

Leg of Lamb with Olive Sauce

about 1/2 kilo lamb bones
3 large carrots, diced
3 large onions, chopped coarsely
1 bouquet garni made by tying together 3 sprigs of
parsley, 1 bay leaf, several celery leaves and
fresh thyme
salt and pepper to taste
1 leg of lamb, about 2 1/2 kilos
4 - 5 cloves garlic, cut in slivers
olive oil as required
400 gr. black olives, pitted and chopped
1 can anchovy fillets, (about 60 gr.),
rinsed under cold water and then mashed
2 Tbsp. parsley, chopped finely
1 tsp. garlic, chopped finely
juice of 1/2 lemon
1/4tsp. paprika

Prepare a stock by combining the lamb bones, carrots, onions,
bouquet garni and 3 1/2 cups of cold water. Season with salt and
pepper, cover, bring just to the point of boiling and then
immediately reduce the flame so that the stock simmers gently for
1 hour.

In the leg of lamb make insertions with a very sharp knife and
in each place a sliver of garlic. Rub the meat with salt and
pepper and then with olive oil. Place in a roasting pan and place
in an oven that has been preheated to 400 degrees Fahrenheit
(200 Celsius) oven for 15 minutes.

Reduce the oven temperature to 325 F (170 C) and continue to
roast the meat, basting often with the drippings and oil until the
meat is done. Remove the lamb to a preheated platter and set
aside to keep warm.

From the pan juices spoon off the excess fat and discard. Strain
the stock and add 1 cup to the pan juices. Place the pan over a
medium flame and stir well, scraping all the particles that stick
to the pan. Add the remaining stock, stirring constantly and boil
the mixture down until it leaves about 2 cups of gravy. Add the
olives, anchovies, parsley, garlic, lemon juice and paprika and
heat through, stirring constantly until well blended. Correct the
seasoning with salt and pepper to taste. Carve the lamb and serve
the gravy separately.

Lamb in Egg and Lemon Sauce

1/2 cup butter
1 lamb shoulder, about 1 kilo, well trimmed
and cut into 2 1/2 cm. pieces
2 large onions, sliced
3 Tbsp. parsley, chopped finely
1 tsp. lemon rind, grated
1 cup chicken stock
salt and pepper to taste
8 artichoke hearts, halved
2 Tbsp. vinegar
3 egg yolks
juice of 2 large lemons

In a heavy casserole dish melt half of the butter and in this
saute the lamb and onions making sure the meat is browned on all
sides. Add the parsley and lemon rind to the casserole and continue
to saute for 1 - 2 minutes longer. Add the chicken stock,
season to taste with salt and pepper, bring to a boil and
immediately cover and reduce the heat. Simmer gently until the
meat is tender (about 1 1/4 - 1 1/2 hours).

In a saucepan with the artichoke hearts add water just to cover
and then pour over the vinegar. Bring to a boil and then lower
the flame so that the artichokes cook on a low simmer, covered,
until they are tender (15 - 20 minutes).

Drain the artichokes. In a skillet melt the remaining butter and
in this saute the artichokes for about 5 minutes. Add the arti-
chokes and butter to the casserole 10 minutes before the meat has
finished cooking.

In a mixing bowl beat the egg yolks until thickened. Beat in
the lemon juice and then beat in 1/2 cup of the liquids in which the
meat was cooked, adding the hot liquids slowly during beating.
Pour the mixture over the meat, lower to lowest possible flame and
continue cooking, shaking the casserole gently, until the sauce
thickens. Serve immediately.

Lamb in Anchovy Sauce

1 leg or shoulder of lamb
salt and pepper to taste
juice of 1 large lemon
1 clove garlic, halved
1 cup white wine
2 onions, sliced
2 stalks celery, chopped coarsely
1 cup chicken stock
2 Tbsp. flour
2 Tbsp. parsley, chopped
1 Tbsp. anchovy paste
1 tsp. lemon rind, grated
paprika to taste

With a damp cloth wipe the lamb and then rub with salt, pepper,
lemon juice and the cut clove of garlic. Place the joint in an
very hot oven for 10 minutes and then reduce the oven heat to
medium and add the wine, onions and celery. Baste frequently
with the pan drippings. After 1 hour add the stock and continue
basting. Cook, uncovered, until the lamb is nearly done (about 1«
hours). Ten minutes before the meat is done sprinkle the top with
the flour to brown.

Remove the joint to a pre-heated platter and set aside to keep
warm. To the drippings add the parsley, anchovy paste and lemon
rind and, cooking on top of the stove, heat through. Pour several
spoonfuls of the gravy over the joint before carving and serve the
remaining gravy in a sauceboat. Serve hot.

Lamb and Date Tagine

1/4 cup oil
1 lamb shoulder, about 1« kilos, trimmed of fat,
boned and cut into 4 cm. pieces
salt to taste
1 tsp. black pepper
1/2 tsp. each turmeric, ground ginger and chopped garlic
2 medium onions, chopped finely
12 sprigs fresh coriander
cayenne pepper or Tabasco to taste
375 gr. dates, pitted
about 1/2 tsp. finely ground cinnamon.

In a flameproof casserole heat the oil and in this lightly
brown the lamb on all sides. Add the salt, black pepper, turmeric,
ground ginger, cinnamon and garlic, toss and cook over a low flame
for about 10 minutes. Add the onion, coriander and 4 cups of
water. Bring to the boil and then reduce the flame and simmer,
covered, for 1 1/2 hours, adding water if necessary. By the end of
cooking, the meat should be very tender.

Spread the meat in a single layer in an ovenproof serving dish
and distribute the dates in between the meat. Remove the coriander
from the cooking liquids, correct the seasoning by adding cayenne
pepper generously to make a spicy sauce. Pour this sauce over the
meat and sprinkle with the cinnamon.

Place the dish on the highest shelf of an oven that has been
preheated to its maximum temperature and bake, uncovered, until the
dates have formed a crust. Serve piping hot.

Lamb on Vine Leaves

3 Tbsp. olive oil
3/4 kilo boneless lamb, cut in bite-sized cubes
3 medium onions, chopped coarsely
3/4 tsp. allspice
salt and pepper to taste
12 vine leaves
1/2 cup pine nuts
juice of 2 lemons

In a heavy skillet heat the oil and in this saute the meat and
onions together until the meat is nicely browned on all
sides. Season with the allspice and salt and pepper to taste.

Place half the vine leaves in a low, well greased casserole and on
the leaves distribute the meat mixture. Sprinkle over with the
pine nuts, cover with the remaining leaves, sprinkle with the
lemon juice and bake in a medium oven for 5 - 6 minutes. Place a
dish with hot water in the oven, under the casserole, and bake
for an additional 30 minutes. Serve with rice pilaf as a main
course.

© Daniel Rogov