Known to the Chaldeans, the Egyptians and the Hebrews in antiquity, dates have long been one of the best known and most beloved foods of North Africa and the Mediterranean basin. Date-bearing palm trees, which sometimes attain heights of up to 28 meters (60 feet), exist in distinctly male and female forms, and these have grown wild for millions of years in the dessert areas bounded by the Nile and the Euphrates. Perhaps because the trees are often found in oases, the fruit has long been associated with hospitality.

Jewish folklore has always given a friendly nod to the date palm. Deborah, one of the judges in Biblical times, always held court under the shade of one of these trees; in the Song of Songs, the beloved one is said to have "the stateliness of a date palm"; and several rabbis have claimed the ability to "understand the language of these graceful trees. Nor do Moslems and Christians overlook the importance of the date. They were one of Mohammed's favorite fruits and, because they are associated with resurrection, dates also have an important place in Christian ritual, especially on Palm and Easter Sundays.

While fresh dates (available in Israel in late summer and throughout Europe and North America during the winter months) are always best for eating and cooking, many find that dried dates (available all year) are equally good for cooking. Any of the following dishes will make a marvelous treat and, unless otherwise noted, each of the following recipes will serve 4 - 6.

Date Omelet

4 eggs
4 very thin slices smoked salmon, cut in
1" (2 1/2 cm) squares
4 dried dates, chopped coarsely
salt and pepper to taste
2 Tbsp. butter
6 Tbsp. seasoned tomato sauce

In a bowl beat the eggs lightly with a fork. Add the salmon,
dates, salt and pepper to taste and stir well.

In a medium skillet heat the butter and when hot pour in the
egg mixture. Stir once and then let set lightly on the bottom.
With the aid of a spatula, gently roll up the omelet. Transfer to
a serving plate, heat the tomato sauce and pour the hot sauce over
the omelet. (Note: this recipe will serve 2. To prepare more,
simply increase the ingredients proportionally but do not cook
more than 4 eggs in the same skillet at any time).

Lamb and Date Tagine

1/4 cup oil
1 lamb shoulder, about 3 1/2 lb. (1 1/2 kilos), trimmed
of fat, boned and cut into 1 1/2" (4 cm) pieces
salt taste
1 tsp. black pepper
1/2 tsp. each turmeric, ground ginger and chopped garlic
2 medium onions, chopped finely
12 sprigs fresh coriander
cayenne pepper or Tabasco to taste
3/4 lb. (375 gr.) dates, pitted
about 1/2 tsp. finely ground cinnamon.

In a flameproof casserole heat the oil and in this lightly brown the lamb on all sides. Add the salt, black pepper, turmeric, ground ginger, cinnamon and garlic, toss and cook over a low flame for about 10 minutes. Add the onion, coriander and 4 cups of water. Bring to the boil and then reduce the flame and simmer, covered, for 1/2 hours, adding water if necessary. By the end of cooking, the meat should be very tender.

Spread the meat in a single layer in an oven proof serving dish and distribute the dates in between the meat. Remove the coriander from the cooking liquids, correct the seasoning by adding cayenne pepper generously to make a spicy sauce. Pour this sauce over the meat and sprinkle with the cinnamon.

Place the dish on the highest shelf of an oven that has been preheated to its maximum temperature and bake, uncovered, until the dates have formed a crust. Serve piping hot.

Date and Orange Salad

2 Tbsp. each lemon juice, orange juice and sugar
pinch of salt
ground cinnamon as required
1 large head lettuce, shredded and well chilled
3 Jaffa type oranges, pared and separated
into sections
1/4 lb. (115 gr.) dates, chopped
2 oz. (60 gr.) blanched toasted almonds, chopped

In a small mixing bowl mix together the lemon and orange juice,
sugar, salt and 1/2 tsp. cinnamon. Just before serving pour most of
the dressing over the lettuce and toss. Arrange the orange
sections so that they overlap the edges, top with the dates and
almonds, dribble over the remaining dressing and dust with
cinnamon to taste. Serve immediately.

Date Ring

1 cup dates, pitted and chopped finely
1 cup walnut or pecan meat, chopped
1 cup whipping cream
1/2 cup brown sugar
1/4 cup Madeira wine or 3 Tbsp. brandy or rum
2 egg yolks, beaten lightly
2 egg whites, beaten stiff
2 Tbsp. extra-fine sugar
1 Tbsp. flour
2 tsp. vanilla extract
1 tsp. baking powder

In a mixing bowl combine the dates, nut meats, sugar, flour, baking powder, egg yolks and 1 tsp. of the vanilla. Mix well and then fold in the stiff egg whites. Place the mixture in a 9" (23 cm) ring mold which has been well greased and bake in a medium oven for about 1/2 hour. When hot sprinkle over the Madeira. Remove from the oven and let cool in the mold.

In a separate mixing bowl whip together the heavy cream, extra- fine sugar and remaining vanilla, whipping until quite stiff. Just before serving unmold the baked dates onto a serving platter and generously spoon over with whipped cream. Serve warm or cool.

Stuffed Glaceed Dates

1/2 lb. (225 gr.) sugar
1/2 tsp. lemon juice
1/4 lb. (115 gr.) ground almonds
confectioners' sugar as required
3/4 lb. (375 gr.) dates, pitted

In a small saucepan mix together the sugar and 1 cup of water and heat, stirring regularly until a syrup is formed.

In a small mixing bowl combine the ground almonds and lemon juice with 2 - 3 Tbsp. of the hot syrup. Add just enough confectioners' sugar to bind the mixture into a firm paste and with this mixture stuff the dates.

Heat the syrup so that it is barely simmering and in this cook the stuffed dates several at a time, without stirring, just until the dates are well coated. Remove the dates with a slotted spoon and place on a lightly greased plate. Let the dates dry and then place them in individual candy paper cases.

© Daniel Rogov