Often referred to as "tent cookery", the cookery of Libya is not sophisticated but is tasty and healthy. In addition to staples which include milk, oil, semolina, rice, dates, vegetables and pasta products, meats are generally cooked in ways that make for easily digestible dishes.

In this devotedly Moslem land, many eating habits are governed by strict tradition. At dinner, for example, each course is served on a common platter and guests are expected to eat by helping themselves from around the edges of the platters. The food in the very center of each tray is never eaten as it is intended as an offering to heaven.

In the most traditional homes, beverages are not served with meals. Only after the last tray has been cleared from the table, a communal vessel (guerba) containing spring water or milk makes the round of those participating in the meal. The person drinking should not breathe into the bowl, and must remove it from his lips before beginning to breathe again. After everyone has drunk his or her fill, meals are concluded with coffee and a pipe of tobacco.

Because the dietary laws laid down in the Koran are similar to those maintained by Jews, maintaining kashrut was not a problem in Libya and Moslems and Jews enjoyed similar diets. Each of the following recipes will serve 6 - 8.

Spiced Sausage

1 kilo ground beef or lamb
1/2 cup beef stock
1/2 tsp. bicarbonate of soda
1 tsp. each salt and black pepper
beef or sheep intestines as required
1/2 cup olive oil
1 tsp. parsley, chopped finely
1/2 tsp. hot paprika (or more or less to taste)
1/2 tsp. each grill spice and dried oregano
juice of 2 lemons

In a mixing bowl combine the ground meat with the beef stock, bicarbonate of soda and 1/2 tsp. each of the salt and black pepper. Mix well.

Clean the intestines well cutting off any fat that may cling and washing thoroughly. Stuff the intestines with the ground meat mixture and by using kitchen string form sausages about 6" (15 cm) long.

In a heavy skillet heat 3 Tbsp. of the oil and in this fry the sausages until dark brown on all sides. Transfer the sausages to a saucepan with a small amount of boiling water and cook, maintaining a low boil, for 15 minutes. Remove from the water and refrigerate overnight.

Shortly before serving place the sausages in a slow oven and heat through. Prepare a sauce by combining the remaining olive oil with the remaining salt and black pepper, the paprika, grill spice, parsley, oregano and lemon juice. Serve with the sauce in a gravy boat.

Marinated Chickpeas

1/2 kilo gr. chickpeas
2 bay leaves
2 hard boiled egg yolks, chopped and sieved
1/2 cup olive oil
1/4 cup red wine vinegar
2 Tbs. onion, finely chopped
3 - 4 cloves garlic, chopped finely
3 Tbsp. parsley, chopped
2 Tbsp. capers
salt as required

Soak the chickpeas overnight in cold water. Add the bay leaf and 2 tsp. of salt, cover and cook over a medium flame until the chickpeas are tender (about 1 1/2 hours), adding more water if necessary. Drain well.

In a small mixing bowl put the egg yolks and into this beat the oil and vinegar with a wire whisk. Stir in the onion, garlic, 2 Tbsp. of the parsley, capers and chickpeas. Refrigerate overnight. Allow to come to room temperature before serving and just before serving sprinkle over with the remaining parsley.

Eggplant Salad

1 eggplant, about 1/2 kilo
1 - 3 cloves garlic, crushed
4 slices white bread, without crusts, crumbed
1/4 cup lemon juice
1/2 cup olive oil
l medium onion, chopped finely
3 Tbsp. parsley, chopped
salt and pepper to taste
black and green olives for garnish

Place the eggplant on a baking pan and bake in a medium oven until soft (about 45 minutes). Remove the skin and chop the flesh coarsely.

In a mortar crush the garlic together with 1/4 tsp. salt.

In a mixing bowl combine the eggplant and breadcrumbs. Add the lemon juice and olive oil and mash the mixture well. Add the remaining ingredients, mix well and chill, covered. When well chilled correct the seasoning with salt and pepper. Serve with bread slices and garnish with black and green olives.

Pickled Eggplant

12 baby eggplants, with stems intact
3 cups red wine vinegar
1 cup olive oil
8 cloves garlic, chopped finely
1 1/2 Tbsp. each salt and ground cumin
2 - 3 dried red chili peppers
1/2 tsp. oregano
black pepper to taste

In each eggplant make a 1" (2 1/2 cm) slit. Place the eggplants in a saucepan with a large amount of lightly salted boiling water and cook until just tender (about 10 - 12 minutes). Drain, cool and transfer the eggplants to a large crock or jar.

In a mixing bowl combine the remaining ingredients with about 4 cups of water. Pour this mixture over the eggplants. If necessary, add water so that the eggplants are covered. Cover the container tightly and let stand at room temperature for 3 - 4 days. To serve, drain and serve whole.

Pickled Sardines

1 kilo very small fresh sardines
l 1/4 cups flour, seasoned with salt and pepper to taste
1/2 cup olive oil
l large carrot, sliced thinly
l large onion, sliced thinly
6 cloves garlic, halved
1/2 cup white wine vinegar
1/2 cup dry white wine
l bouquet garni made by tying together 3 sprigs parsley,
3 sprigs dill and 1 bay leaf
2 - 3 dried red peppers, chopped finely
1 tsp. salt
9 whole black peppercorns
chopped parsley for garnish

Roll the sardines in the seasoned flour. In a skillet heat the oil and in this fry the fish until golden on both sides. Remove from the skillet with a slotted spoon, drain on paper toweling and distribute on a serving platter. Pour off half the remaining oil from the pan.

Reheat the remaining oil and in this gently saute the carrot, onion and garlic until the carrots are softened but not yet browned. Add the vinegar and wine, mix well and then add the bouquet garni, red pepper, salt and peppercorns. Simmer gently for 25 minutes, stirring occasionally. Discard the bouquet garni, pour the contents of the skillet over the fish, let cool and then refrigerate, lightly covered, for 36 - 48 hours before serving. Immediately before serving sprinkle over the parsley.

Stuffed Fennel Bulbs

8 fennel bulbs, well washed and with hard bases cut off
1 kilo chopped beef
1/4 cup parsley, chopped finely
1 tsp. each dill and tarragon, both dried
2 tsp. black pepper
salt to taste
1/2 cup olive oil or vegetable oil
4 eggs, beaten lightly
2 - 4 Tbsp. Parmesan cheese, grated
2 cups spiced tomato sauce

In a saucepan with lightly salted boiling water cook the fennel bulbs, maintaining the boil, just until tender (about 15 minutes). Drain the bulbs and then cut in half lengthwise.

In a mixing bowl combine the beef, parsley, dill, tarragon, salt and pepper and mix together well. In a heavy skillet heat the oil and in this saute the mixture until well browned. Allow the mixture to col and then mix in the eggs and cheese.

Transfer 4 of the fennel halves to a well greased shallow baking dish, cut side up. On these pile the meat filling, cover with the remaining fennel halves, spoon over the tomato sauce and bake in a hot oven for about 20 minutes. Serve hot.

© Daniel Rogov