The French love their hors d'oeuvres, the Italians adore their antipasto and the Germans are passionately devoted to their vorspeice, but when it comes to the art of serving first courses, Israeli Jews and Arabs are the unquestioned masters of the art. Drawing liberally on the culinary traditions of North Africa, the Moslem nations of the Middle-East and the European countries of the Mediterranean Basin, Israelis are renowned for serving first courses that, in addition to being generous in size, offer just the right contrast of textures, aromas and flavors to turn even the simplest meal into an out-and-out feast.

So important are first courses, or "mezes" as they are known locally (and in Greece, Cyprus and Turkey) to the success of a meal that many traditional Middle-Eastern restaurants are judged largely by the quality and assortment of the dishes they offer at the onset of a meal. A popular and inexpensive restaurant in the coastal town of Atlit, located 15 kilometers south of Haifa, offers a selection of twenty-eight first courses; an equally popular but far more expensive fish restaurant in Jaffa has thirty such dishes; and a well known hotel in East Jerusalem sets out a buffet with nearly forty such dishes. Most restaurants are neither so innovative or generous, and limit their first-courses to between fifteen and twenty offerings. The thing that many visitors find difficult to believe is that when four or more people come in to a restaurant they are not offered one or two of these dishes. Regardless of whether there are eighteen or forty mezes on the menu, at least half of those will automatically be brought to their the table at the same time.

The most basic mezes will contain humous, tehina, labane (a slightly sour cheese made from yoghurt), a variety of olives and pickles, at least three varieties of eggplant salad and two or more different styles of hot sauce. Mezes that are a bit more sophisticated will also include at least one kind of pickled or spiced fish, a mixed salad. It is also mandatory that such mezes are served with hot pita, the bread that has been the staple of the region for at least 1,500 years. The most sophisticated mezes may or may not include these dishes but will feature house specialties such as fried, marinated seafood and fish, pickled meats, stuffed vine leaves, pickled meats and a variety of salads, nearly all of which have their roots in the Mediterranean.

In addition to a wide variety of dishes, there is also a certain amount of variation in precisely how diners eat their mezes. Hot and cold, highly spiced and barely spiced, sweet and sour are all brought to the table on small plates. In fancier restaurants diners are also given individual plates, on which to put whatever they chose to sample. In simpler restaurants, the kinds at which the mezes are often best, only the serving plates are placed on the table and guests are expected to dip in, using pieces of pita bread to scoop up first a taste of this, then a taste of that. Whether one chooses to make an entire meal of mezes will ever frown on such a decision) or to use them quite literally as "starters" to an even larger meal is unimportant. More than merely a style of food, mezes are a social ritual, an opportunity to share and discuss the flavors of the food as well as the flavor of life itself.

Each of the following recipes is designed to serve 4 - 6. If all of these dishes are prepared together they will provide a marvelous feast for 6 - 8.

Stuffed Grape Leaves
Dolmadakia - A Dish that originated in Greece

36 grape leaves
1 - 2 tsp. olive oil
1 small onion, chopped finely
1 tsp. parsley, chopped
1 1/2 cups cooked rice
2 tsp. pine nuts, lightly toasted
1/2 tsp. each dried mint and dill
1/4 tsp. each salt, pepper and allspice
juice of 3 - 4 lemons
1 - 2 cups vegetable or chicken stock

Put the grape leaves in a large amount of lightly salted water. Slowly bring to a boil and let boil gently for 2 - 3 minutes. Quickly plunge the leaves into cold water and then let the water drip off. Lay the leaves on a board, laying them flat with the outer side down.

In a small skillet with 1 tsp. of the olive oil saute the onions and parsley until the onions are golden. Remove from the flame and mix in the rice, pine nuts, mint, dill salt, pepper, and allspice. If the mixture is overly dry, add a bit more olive oil.

On each leaf place a heaping teaspoon of the rice mixture and then roll the leaf, tucking in the ends as you roll. Squeeze the finished rolls gently in the hand and, when all of the leaves are ready place them, side by side, in a shallow pan. Squeeze over the lemon juice and add enough stock to come half way up the rolled leaves. Cover with a small plate which rests on top of the dolmadakia and bring to a boil. Reduce the flame, cover the pot and let simmer gently for about 1/2 hour.

With a slotted spoon remove the stuffed leaves from the liquid and refrigerate, covered, until well chilled. Serve cold.

Dill Meatballs
A recipe from Iran

1/2 lb. (225 gr.) cooked chickpeas
3/4 tsp. each salt and dill seed
1/2 tsp. each cardamom and pepper
2 Tbsp. oil
1 lb. (450 gr.) ground beef
1 lb. (450 gr.) ground chicken
4 eggs
3 cups chicken stock

Grind the chick peas finely and combine with the salt, cardamom, pepper and dill seed, mixing well.

In a heavy skillet heat the oil and in this brown the ground beef and chicken lightly. Combine the meat, chickpeas and eggs, kneading well by hand. Form into meatballs about 1" (2 1/2 cm.) in diameter. Cook uncovered in the chicken stock for 45 minutes. Drain and serve hot.

Spiced Eggs and Tomatoes
Chatchouka - A Moroccan dish

2 Tbsp. olive oil for cooking
2 medium onions, chopped finely
4 cloves garlic, chopped finely
6 medium tomatoes, grated coarsely
6 eggs
salt, pepper and cayenne pepper to taste
dash or more Tabasco (optional)

In a heavy skillet heat the oil and in this saute the onion and garlic just until they are beginning to turn brown. Add the grated tomatoes, cover and cook over a low flame for 15 minutes. Break the eggs over the surface of the mixture and sprinkle with salt, pepper and cayenne to taste. Cover and cook until the eggs are firm (5 - 7 minutes). Sprinkle with Tabasco if desired. Serve hot.

Herbed Mushrooms
An Algerian dish

6 Tbsp. oil for frying
2 medium onions, sliced thinly
3 1/2 cups small whole mushrooms, well washed
4 medium tomatoes, peeled and grated
1 tsp. each thyme and pepper
1/2 tsp. each salt, caraway seed, turmeric

In a heavy skillet heat the oil and in this saute the onions until translucent. Add the remaining ingredients and continue frying, stirring continuously until the onions are golden brown. Remove the onions and mushrooms from the skillet and drain on paper toweling. Refrigerate, covered, and serve cold.

Spiced Chickpeas

1 lb. (450 gr.) chickpeas
1 Tbsp. parsley, chopped finely
1 1/2 tsp. olive oil
1 tsp. each salt and caraway seed
cayenne pepper to taste
2 cloves garlic, mashed

Soak the chickpeas in water overnight. Drain and cover with fresh water. On a low flame cook, covered for 3 hours. Remove from the water and place in a serving bowl. Add the remaining ingredients and toss gently but well. Serve hot or cold.

Fried Olives with Mushrooms

3 Tbsp. olive oil
1 large onion, chopped coarsely
1/2 lb. (225 gr.) mushrooms, cleaned and chopped finely
1 hot red pepper, chopped finely
2 cloves garlic
1/2 lb. (225 gr.) green olives, pitted and chopped finely
1/2 cup breadcrumbs
1/2 tsp. black pepper
toast points for serving

In a skillet heat the oil and in this saute the onion until translucent. Add the mushrooms, hot pepper and garlic and continue sauteeing until the onions are golden brown. Add the olives, breadcrumbs and black pepper and saute for 2 - 3 minutes longer, stirring constantly. (Add a bit of olive oil if the mixture becomes overly dry). Serve hot on toast points.

Anchovy Stuffed Olives

1 lb. (450 gr.) large black olives
1/4 lb. (ll5 gr.) anchovy fillets
3 Tbsp. olive oil
1 Tbsp. white wine vinegar or cider vinegar
1/2 tsp. each tarragon and black pepper

Pit the olives and fill each with an anchovy fillet. Place on a serving plate.

Combine the oil, vinegar, tarragon and pepper, mixing well. Sprinkle the mixture over the stuffed olives. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate at least 4 - 6 hours. Serve well chilled.

Pita Bread

2 tsp. sugar
1 package (15 grams) active dry yeast
4 cups flour
1 tsp. salt

Dissolve the sugar and yeast in 1 1/2 cups of lukewarm water. Mix the flour and salt together and sift them into the dissolved yeast ,mixture, stirring well. Knead the mixture well and divide into about 20 balls. Let stand to rise for 1/2 hour.

On a well floured board, roll out the balls into rounds about 5 - 6" (12 - 15 cm.) in diameter and then let rise again for 1/2 hour. Bake the breads in a preheated hot oven just until they are lightly browned underneath (4 - 5 minutes). If the tops have not browned, place the breads under a hot grill for several second, taking care not to overcook. Serve hot or rewarm before serving.

© Daniel Rogov