There may never have been any American as simultaneously charming, amusing and talented as Mark Twain, but when it came to his dining habits, Twain had little desire to try new dishes. To the author of Huckleberry Finn and Tom Sawyer, everything good to eat had to be American, and anything not American could not possibly be good. Because he was so insistent in this belief, Twain had a difficult time of it when he visited Jaffa and Jerusalem in 1902.

After he had dined with a group of Bedouins, whose habit it was to eat with their fingers, he wrote a letter to a friend and noted that "I do not concur with those members of our party who feel that eating with the fingers is barbaric, but when the food set before me is unrecognizable in taste, texture and flavor, life assumes a level of complexity that is most trying indeed."

So confused was Twain's palate upon exposure to such herbs and spices as cardamom, mint, basil and coriander that he felt "an incredible longing for a plate heaped high with flapjacks, covered with rich creamy butter and immersed in a shining pool of maple syrup." On one occasion the author dined on leg of lamb which had been prepared with rosemary, mint and tarragon. His reaction: "I think I would have preferred grasshoppers."

Twain, always a keen observer of life, also noted that in no place had coffee become as indispensable to life as in the Middle-East. While in Jerusalem he observed that "the people here drink coffee on awakening and then continue drinking coffee through the entire day. No discussion can be held, no business transacted and no friends can meet without the presence of coffee. With the Good Lord as my witness, they even serve coffee at their funerals".

Twain may not have been open to the culinary flavors of the Holy Land but, as always, he demonstrated the good grace of being amusing in his analysis of the various culinary habits of those he met. He even found several dishes that "were pleasing, not at all alien, and much to my taste", and the recipes for these are given below. As coffee is still a vital part of life in Israel, each of the dishes that Twain enjoyed remain popular throughout the country.

Egyptian Bean Cakes

1 lb. (450 gr.) pea beans or chickpeas
1 Tbsp. salt 1/4 cup parsley, minced
2 Tbsp. onion, minced
2 - 3 cloves garlic, minced
2 Tbsp. flour
2 eggs, beaten lightly
olive or corn oil for frying

Soak the beans overnight in cold water. Drain, cover with cold water, add the salt and simmer until the beans are done but still firm (about 45 minutes). Drain, reserving the water.

Mix the beans together w\ith the parsley, onion and garlic and puree through a strainer, adding just enough of the reserved water to prevent sticking. Blend the flour together with the eggs and blend these into the bean mixture.

In a heavy skillet heat about 1" (2 1/2 cm) of the oil and into this drop the mixture by heaping tablespoonfuls. Fry, turning occasionally until both sides are golden and crusty. Drain on paper toweling and serve hot as an appetizer, side dish or snack. (Serves 6 - 8).

Eggs with Yoghurt

1 cup yoghurt
1 clove garlic, minced salt to taste
1 Tbsp. vinegar
4 eggs pepper to taste
2 Tbsp. butter
1 tsp. hot paprika
pepper to taste

In a small mixing bowl combine the yoghurt, garlic and salt to taste. Divide the mixture into 4 ovenproof ramekins and place in a slow oven to heat through.

In boiling water to which the vinegar has been added, poach the eggs. Remove the eggs with a slotted spoon and place an egg in each ramekin. Sprinkle over with salt and pepper to taste and return to the oven for 5 - 6 minutes.

In a small skillet melt the butter. Stir in the paprika and distribute the butter over the eggs. Serve immediately. (Serves 4).

Lamb Soup

1 1/2 lb. (675 gr.) stewing lamb, cut into 2" (5 cm) cubes
2 zucchini squash
2 medium tomatoes
3 Tbsp. olive oil
6 spring onions, chopped coarsely
2 - 3 cloves garlic, chopped
1/2 tsp. each black pepper, salt and turmeric
1/2 tsp. caraway seed
pinch saffron

Place all the ingredients in a heavy kettle and stir together gently. Pour over 6 cups of boiling water or stock and cook, covered, over a low flame until the meat is tender (about 2 hours). Skim the surface occasionally during the cooking process. After the meat is tender remove and discard the tomatoes. Serve hot, dividing the meat and vegetables equally. (Serves 6).

Stewed Beef with Green Beans

2 1/2 cups tomato juice
2 1/4 lb (1 kilo) stewing beef, cut in 1 1/2" (4 cm) cubes
1/4 cup parsley, chopped
6 cloves garlic, chopped
1/2 cup butter
2 medium onions, chopped coarsely
1 1/4 lb. (675 gr.) green beans
1 tsp. each caraway seeds, cardamom seeds and black pepper
1/2 tsp. turmeric (optional)
1/4 tsp. saffron

In a large saucepan bring the tomato juice and 1/2 cup water to a boil. Add the beef, parsley and garlic. Cover and simmer on a low flame for 2 1/2 hours.

In a large skilet heat the butter or margarine and oil mixture and in this saute the onions until beginning to brown. Add the beans, cut diagonally into 1" (2 1/2 cm) strips and cook for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. Remove the meat from its sauce and add to the skillet. Add the seasonings and cook 15 minutes longer. Serve hot by pouring the beans and sauce over the beef. (Serves 6).

Chicken with Almonds

salt as required
8 cloves garlic, crushed
2 Tbsp. parsley, chopped
1 chicken, about 3 1/2 lb (1 1/2 kilos), quartered
2 Tbsp. parsley, chopped
about 1/2 cup olive oil
1/2 tsp. pepper or more to taste pinch or two of saffron
2 medium onions, chopped 3 oz. (85 gr.)
whole blanched almonds
4 hard boiled eggs, halved

Make a paste with 1 tbs. of salt and half the garlic cloves. With this mixture rub the chicken parts on all sides. Let stand for 15 minutes and then rinse well and pat dry with paper towels. In a blender or food processor combine the remaining garlic with the parsley and pound to a paste. Moisten the mixture with 1 Tbsp. of the olive oil and add the saffron and pepper. With this mixture rub the chicken thoroughly. Cover and refrigerate for about 24 hours.

In a heavy flameproof casserole heat 4 Tbsp. of the oil and in this saute the onion just until golden. Add the chicken and continue to saute until the chicken is golden brown on both sides. Add about 2 cups of water, bring to the boil, cover, reduce the flame and simmer gently for about 45 minutes, turning the chicken often. Add water if necessary to prevent the casserole from drying out.

In a small skillet heat 1 Tbsp. of the oil and in this fry the almonds until golden brown. Drain on paper toweling.

To serve, spoon the almonds over the chicken, garnish with the hard boiled eggs and serve hot. Serves 4.

© Daniel Rogov