Mentioned in the Book of Genesis and as among the fruits offered to Joseph, almonds, in nearly any form, have been considered a Mediterranean and Middle-Eastern regional treat for thousands of years. As much as these delicate nuts are popular in making soups, cakes and stuffing for poultry, the most beloved product of the almond is marzipan. It might be accurate to state that Israelis are mad for marzipan.

The first Europeans to taste this delicious treat were probably the Crusaders when they invaded the lands of Islam. A French knight wrote to his wife: "Never had I imagined that from such a simple base of ground almonds would it be possible to devise such a delicacy. The inhabitants of these lands are not so primitive as we have been told, for surely no barbarian could invent such a culinary marvel."

So popular has marzipan become that more than 15 countries lay claim to having invented it. The French villagers of Bourges say that a local baker invented the confection in the 15th century. The Spanish tourist office would have us think that marzipan is of Castillian origin, and the good folks of Calcutta are sure that the delicious candy was concocted by a local 13th century monk. The residents of Tokyo are just as certain that it was first cooked up by a sect of Shintu priests in a local monastery, and some Hawaiians are convinced that the candy was a gift from the gods that watch over the volcanoes on the island of Oahu. Even Jerusalem has a claim to this delightful sweet. According to the 1902 version of the Larousse Gastronomique, marzipan "was probably the product of some order of nuns, possibly in the Holy City of Jerusalem, who earned their keep by making many littlecakes and sweets and discovered the recipe."

For all of the claims, however, the truth is that marzipan evolved in the Middle East as early as the fifth century. In fact, it was one of the sweets most enjoyed by the prophet Mohammed. Thought of as a holiday treat in many countries, the English exchange gifts of marzipan to celebrate the New Year; the French enjoy it at Easter; and Germans partake of it during Fasching, just prior to Lent. Vietnamese find it most appealing during the Tet season and Tibetians consider it appropriate for wedding feasts.Arabs and Jews find marzipan the perfect sweet for any festive occasion.

Although the best commercial marzipan today comes from the Belgian city of Lille, devotees will find that making fine marzipan at home is a pleasant chore. The finished products may be glazed, colored or flavored. They may be made into cookies or petits fours and shaped to resemble fruits and vegetables.

Marzipan

2 cups sugar
2 cups blanched almonds, very finely ground
1 1/2 Tbsp. lemon juice
2 egg whites, beaten stiff

In a heavy saucepan, over a medium flame, heat the sugar and 1 1/4 cups of water, stirring constantly. When the mixture begins to bubble at the edges, add several drops of the lemon juice. Continue cooking and stirring until the mixture become syrupy. Reduce the flame, add the ground almonds and continue stirring until the mixture forms a ball the consistency of soft dough. Stir in the remaining lemon juice and, when well blended, remove from the heat.

Fold the stiff egg whites into the dough. Allow to cool for 15 - 20 minutes, stirring occasionally. Roll out the dough to about 3/4" (2 cm.) thickness. Cut the marzipan into cookie, fruit or vegetable shapes. Place on a cookie sheet and let stand, uncovered, overnight to dry. To color the marzipan, brush lightly with a mixture of several drops of vegetable coloring dissolved in water after the cookies are dry.

To glaze the cookies (optional), beat together 1 egg white and 1/2 cup of confectioners' sugar until the mixture is white, creamy and thickened. Add 1 tsp. of lemon juice and beat another 5 minutes. Dip the top of each candy or cookie in the glaze and leave it on the cookie sheet until the glaze hardens. Sere fresh or store in completely dry, sealed containers.

Following are two more almond based recipes, both of which are popular in Israel.

Onion and Almond Soup

6 cups chicken or vegetable stock
1 cup dry white wine
50 blanched almonds
1/2 cup Parmesan cheese, grated
2 large onions, thinly sliced
6 slices French bread, about 1/4" (1/2 cm.) thick, lightly toasted
12 sliced almonds, toasted
2 Tbsp. olive oil
1 bouquet garni made by thing together 2 sprigs parsley, 1 sprig thyme and 2 bay leaves
1/4 tsp. ground cumin
salt and white pepper to taste

In a large saucepan heat the oil and saute the onions until translucent. Add the stock, wine, bouquet garni, salt and pepper. Cover and simmer, without boiling, for 30 minutes.

Grind the blanched almonds with a mortar and pestle or in a food processor until fine. Gradually beat in « cup of the stock and continue beating until the liquid is milky white and all the pieces are dissolved. Strain, return the mixture to the saucepan and add the cumin. Cover and simmer 30 minutes longer, taking care not to boil.

Remove the bouquet garni and transfer the soup to 6 individual oven-proof soup bowls. Cover with toasted bread, sprinkle cheese on top and place under a hot broiler just until the bread and cheese are golden. Serve immediately, topped with the sliced toasted almonds. (Serves 6)..

Almond Sponge Cake
A recipe especially popular during the holiday of Passover

1/2 lb. (225 gr.) each peeled almonds and sugar
6 eggs, separated
1Tbsp. flour
1 Tbsp. brandy
2 tsp. Pernod, ouzo or arak liqueur
1 drop almond extract
1/4 tsp. baking powder pinch of salt

Line the bottom of a 9" (23 cm) spring form pan with parchment or waxed paper. Butter the paper and sides of the pan well and then dust lightly with flour.

Place the almonds in a bowl, covered with hot water and soak for 6 - 8 hours. Drain the nuts and peel off the skins. In a food processor or with a mortar and pestle grind the almonds until medium-fine.

Beat the egg whites until almost stiff. Add the salt and continue to beat until completely stiff. Add the egg yolks, one at a time, beating until well blended with the whites.

Mix together the sugar, baking powder and flour and then, beating constantly, gradually add these to the beaten eggs. Mix in the brandy, Pernod and almond extract and pour the batter into the prepared pan. Place the pan on the middle rack of an oven pre- heated to 330 degrees Fahrenheit (170 Celsius) and bake for 1 1/4 hours. Remove from the oven and let the cake cool completely before removing it from the pan. May be served immediately or stored for 1 - 2 weeks in a cool, dry place, but not in the refrigerator.

© Daniel Rogov