For those who do not know, Mimouna is the folk-holiday celebrated by Moroccan Jews at the close of Passover. Unlike Passover which is charged with religious meaning, this is a festival devoted to the celebration of community, friendship and hospitality. The holiday is celebrated by throwing open one's home to friends, neighbors and even strangers, by public parties and by sharing - a large portion of that sharing involving food. Be there no question but that Mimoua is encouraging of peace, kindness, courtship and human warmth. That many of the celebrants dress in traditional Moroccan garb makes the holiday seem somewhat "exotic" to those not raised in the tradition, but to those who take part, there is nothing at all exotic about the customs and symbols involved.

Whether in private homes, at neighborhood-wide parties, or even parties held in huge tents to which all are welcome, food plays a major role in the holiday, for there are few better ways of sharing than by breaking bread together. And what is shared is far more than bread for the festive tables will invariably be covered with white tablecloths and laded with milk or buttermilk, flour, eggs, honey, fruits, butter, sweets, dates, coins, beans and nuts. And then there are the dairy based mimouna specialties, mostly sweets - especially mofleta which is the first leavened bread eaten after the Passover holiday. No less a part of the celebratory aspects of the day are the music, singing, dancing and exchanging of visits.

Following are one recipe for the highly traditional mofleta and another for a nougat ice cream that will fit comfortably on any Mimouna or any other celebratory table. The 2002 celebration of Mimouna starts on the evening of 3 April and continues throughout the following day.

Mofleta
(Adapted from Claudia Roden's The Book of Jewish Food, Knopf, 1996)

3-1/4 cups all-purpose flour
2 tsp. dry yeast
1 tsp. salt
1/2 tsp. sugar
about 1 cup lukewarm water
2 Tbsp. olive oil
butter and honey for serving

In a bowl, combine the flour, yeast, salt and sugar. Make a well in the center and add enough water to make a ball. Knead on a lightly floured board for 10 minutes or until silky and elastic using the heels of your hands. Turn into an oiled bowl. Cover with a clean towel and let rest until the dough has doubled in size. Punch dough down. Take pieces the size of an egg, and roll out as thinly as possible on a lightly oiled surface. Heat a small oiled, non-stick, skillet (a crepe pan is ideal) over medium-low heat. Fry each mofleta for 2 minutes. Flip over and cook another minute until both sides are pale brown. Wrap in a clean cloth to keep soft. Eat as soon as possible as they quickly become tough. Serve with a tub of sweet butter and honey to spread over. Yields 20 pieces.

Nougat Ice Cream with Honey and Figs
Adapted from a recipe by the Roux Brothers

40 gr. slivered almonds
60 gr. sugar

For the meringue:
30 gr. sugar
60 gr. clear honey
15 gr. glucose
3 egg whites
150 ml. heaviest possible sweet cream
60 gr. assorted soft candied fruits, diced finely
6 very ripe fresh figs
1 Tbsp. oil, for greasing

Preepare the nougat by spreading the almonds on a baking sheet. Place these in an oven that has been prheated to 200 degrees Celsius (400 Fahrenheit) until lightly colored, taking care not to let them brown too much.

Place the sugar in a saucepan and dissolve over a medium heat, stirring constantly with a wooden spatula until pale golden in color. Add the toasted almonds, stir well and heat for 10 - 15 seconds. Pour onto a lightly oiled baking sheet and let cool for 30 minutes. When completely cold, crush with a rolling pin.

To make the meringue: In a very clean pan combine the sugar, honey and glucose. Set over a low heat and dissolve, skimming the surface if necessary. Wash the inside of the pan with a brush dipped in cold water and then increase the heat. Insert a sugar thermometer into the mixture to check the temperature and when the temperature of the sugar reaches 110 Celsius (230 Fahrenheit, beat the egg whites until firm, add a pinch of sugar and beat until very stiff.

When the sugar temperature reaches 125 degrees Celsius (255 Fahrenheit), pour the cooked sugar into the egg whites, still beating at a medium speed. Once well mixed, continue to beat until the mixture is very smooth and has cooled to about 35 degrees Celsius (95 Fahrenheit). Set aside at room temperature

Whip the cream until it holds soft peaks.

Pour the meringue into the cream, and then add the candied fruits and nougatine. Mix carefully and thoroughly, using a spatula. Divide the mixture between the 6 - 8 small cake tins or molds (about 8 cm in diameter and 3 cm. deep) Place in the freezer for 2 - 3 hours at least.

To serve, unmold the ice creams onto well chilled serving plates. Serve plain or with a creme anglaise spooned over. (Serves 6 - 8)

© Daniel Rogov