That most people in the Western World have never heard of argon oil is not surprising because the
argan tree (argania spinosa in Latin) from the nuts of which this oil is made grows only along the coastal strip of Morocco. The tree itself is nothing short of a Moroccan wonder, for its nuts give oil, its flowers are edible, the bark of the tree can be used to make fabric for clothing and, when the tree finally dies (after between 150 - 200 years) its wood is used by Bedouins for making fires.

In parts of Morocco, goats climb the trees in order to eat the sweet flesh that surround the argan kernels. After they have eaten, the goats eliminate the kernels which are collected by the women of the villages, washed (one hopes quite well) and then ground in order to extract the oil. Modern technology has, thankfully, eliminated the goats and their droppings from the process, the kernels now being stripped by machine of the fruit before the kernels are crushed and cold pressed, much as one would with olive oil.

Argan flowers are probably too bitter for most western palates, but argan oil, long perceived in North Africa as good for cooking and in salads, is also used as the base for many skin-softening cosmetics.
The oil, now being commercially introduced to Israel by Priso, is made from nuts imported from Morocco which are then processed entirely naturally. The oil has a deep yellow color, a tempting, nutty-oily aroma and pleasing flavors that call to mind almonds, hazelnuts and olive leaves. The oil contains no cholesterol, is rich in unsaturated fats, has high amounts of natural antioxidants and is believed by many (although without much medical evidence) to be good for the heart, blood pressure and a variety of skin disorders. Medical claims aside, the oil is clean and delicious and leaves a lightly bitter but very appealing aftertaste on the palate. Although I cannot recommend following the Bedouin practice of rubbing the oil on the skin to soften it (unless you want to attract herds goats or swarms of flies), I enthusiastically recommend it for use on salads (ideally together with lemon and not vinegar) and in preparing stews based on lamb, mutton or goat meat.

Lamb and Date Tagine

1/4 cup argan oil
1 lamb shoulder, about 1 1/2 kilos, trimmed of fat, boned and cut into 4 cm. pieces
salt and black pepper to taste
1/2 tsp. each turmeric, ground ginger and chopped garlic
2 medium onions, chopped finely
12 sprigs fresh coriander
cayenne pepper or Tabasco to taste
375 gr. dates, pitted
about 1/2 tsp. finely ground cinnamon.

In a flameproof casserole heat the oil and in this lightly brown the lamb on all sides. Add the salt, black pepper, turmeric, ground ginger, cinnamon and garlic, toss and cook over a low flame for about 10 minutes. Add the onion, coriander and 4 cups of water. Bring to the boil and then reduce the flame and simmer, covered, for about 1 1/2 hours, adding water if necessary. By the end of cooking, the meat should be very tender.

Spread the meat in a single layer in an ovenproof serving dish and distribute the dates in between the meat. Remove the coriander from the cooking liquids, correct the seasoning by adding cayenne pepper generously to make a spicy sauce. Pour this sauce over the meat and sprinkle with the cinnamon.

Place the dish on the highest shelf of an oven that has been preheated to its maximum temperature and bake, uncovered, until the dates have formed a crust. Serve piping hot. (Serves 4 - 6)

Lamb Stew with Dill and Olives

1/2 cup argan oil or 2 Tbsp. each argan oil and olive oil, mixed together
about 1 1/2 kilos of lamb , cut for stew
2 medium onions, chopped finely
1 tsp. turmeric
3/4 tsp. pepper
salt to taste
1 cup beef stock
3/4 cup lemon juice
675 gr. spinach, chopped
the leaves of 2 bunches of celery, chopped finely
the white parts of 8 spring onions, chopped finely
1/4 kilo green olives, pitted and halved
1/2 cup dried peas, soaked in water 2 hours and drained
2 Tbsp. fresh dill, chopped finely

In a flameproof casserole heat 2 Tbsp. of the oil and in this brown together the lamb and onions. Season with the turmeric, pepper and salt to taste and then pour over the stock and lemon juice. Cover and simmer for 15 minutes, stirring several times.

In a heavy skillet cook the spinach, celery leaves, and spring onions over a very low flame, without adding water, just until the vegetables begin to shrivel. Add the remaining oil to the skillet and fry for 5 minutes. Add the ingredients of the skillet to the meat and then add the olives, dried peas and dill. Simmer gently, stirring occasionally, until the meat and beans are tender (about 45 minutes). Serve hot. (Serves 4 - 6).

© Daniel Rogov