Americans and the English refer to the night of 31 December "New Year's Eve" but Europeans, Israelis and many others around the world refer to the celebration of the onset of the year as "Sylvester". Oddly enough, no one is quite sure just how this appellation came into use. In fact, no one is even quite certain just who Sylvester was.

Until recently, most scholars agreed that Sylvester was a Catholic saint. After that, however, all became confusion, some speculating that he was an obscure parish priest who attained sainthood primarily because he walked barefoot from Bordeaux to Jerusalem. Others hypothesized that the Sylvester in question was the Roman-Catholic pope whose major claim to eternal fame is that he is said to have brought a dead bull back to life. Yet another school of thought has it that Sylvester was in fact an Italian monk, more famous for his seduction of local maidens than for his saintliness.

Those interested in such things will be delighted to know that there is a new hypothesis that may explain who Sylvester really was. In his recently published "France in the Middle Ages", historian Georges Duby speculates that the Sylvester in question might have been Peter Sylvester who was the bishop of Beauvais in1431, when Joan of Arc was arrested in his city.

The reason that this particular Sylvester earned the love of most Frenchmen is that unlike most of his church colleagues, he did not believe that the young maid was acting under the influence of the devil. Although he did not accept Joan's claim that she was "following the direct orders of God", he did feel that she was "a good Christian and a young woman of purity who lived according to the rules of the church and who had no evil in her". He concluded that there was no reason to bring her to trail.

Because his beliefs were not acceptable to those churchmen who wanted to try and execute Joan, Sylvester was arrested during the morning of December 31st. After being charged with idolatry, fornication and conversing with the Devil, the 82 year old bishop was placed in a cell and his former colleagues began to torture him in order to gain a confession. Several minutes before midnight, the bishop died. His last words were: "The year ends and so do I".

Each of the following dishes was the New Year's Eve favorite of one well known or Sylvester or another and any will be appropriate for celebrating either the onset of the new millennium or any other hopefully joyful occasion

Lamb Stew With Prunes

Well known throughout Provence and other parts of France since the 15th century, this was the December 31st favorite of Bishop Peter Sylvester.

1 Tbsp. each butter and olive or walnut oil
1 1/4 kilos lamb shoulder, trimmed of excess fat and cut into 1 1/2 cm. cubes
salt as required
1/4 tsp. turmeric
1/4 tsp. ground ginger
1/2 tsp. coarsely ground black pepper
1/4 tsp. garlic, chopped finely
1 medium onion, chopped finely
6 sprigs fresh coriander
hot paprika to taste
1/4 kilo prunes, pitted
1/4 tsp. ground cinnamon

In a large heavy casserole dish melt the butter, stir in the olive oil and in this brown the meat on all sides. Add the turmeric, ginger, black pepper, garlic and salt to taste. Toss well and cook over a low flame for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add the onion, coriander and 1/2 liter of water. Bring to the boil and simmer, covered until the meat is very tender (about 1 1/2 hours). Add water only if the casserole dries out.

Heat the oven to its highest temperature.

Spread the meat so that it forms one layer in an ovenproof serving dish. Place the prunes in between the cubes of meat. Remove the coriander from the cooking liquids and correct the seasoning of the liquids, adding hot paprika or Tabasco to taste, keeping in mind that the sauce should by highly seasoned. Pour the sauce over the meat, sprinkle with the ground cinnamon and place the serving dish on the highest shelf of the oven. Bake, uncovered until the prunes develop a light crust (about 15 minutes). Serve hot, ideally with a green salad and a dry red wine. (Serves 4).

Chicken in Riesling Sauce

Francois Rabelais, author of "Gargantua" and "Pantagruel" once wrote of his brother Sylvester that "the man is an intolerable scoundrel, famed only for his womanizing, his gourmandizing and his ability to remain constantly in debt". Despite whatever enmity existed between them, the two brothers dined together every year on the eve of the New Year, and it was on this dish that they feasted.

2 chickens, about 1 1/4 kilos each, quartered and skinned
3 cloves garlic mashed together with 2 tsp.salt
4 Tbsp. olive oil
4 Tbsp. butter, melted
3 Tbsp. brandy
2 cups Riesling wine (may use dry or semi-dry)
1 1/2 tsp. minced fresh tarragon or 1/2 tsp dried tarragon
2 onions, sliced into thin rings
1/2 kilo mushrooms, sliced thinly
4 large egg yolks
1/2 cup sweet cream
2 Tbsp. minced fresh parsley leaves

Rub the chickens with the garlic mixture. In a small container mix together the olive oil and melted butter. Transfer 6 Tbsp. of the liquids to a large stainless steel or enameled skillet and in this saute the chicken quarters over a moderately high flame until golden. Heat the brandy gently, pour it over the chicken and very carefully flame. Shake the skillet until the flames go out. Add the wine and the tarragon and cook the mixture, covered, over low heat for 20 minutes

In a skillet cook the onions in the remaining oil and butter mixture over moderate heat, stirring, until they are softened. Add the mushrooms and cook, stirring, until the mushrooms give up their liquid (about 5 minutes). Add the mushrooms and onions to the chicken mixture and cook covered for 10 minutes. Transfer the chicken with tongs to a platter and keep it warm, covered.

In a bowl beat together the egg yolks and parve cream, add 1/2 cup of the hot cooking liquid in a stream, whisking, and stir the mixture into the remaining cooking liquids. Heat this sauce over low heat, stirring, until it thickens, but do not let it boil. Pour the sauce over the chicken and sprinkle with the parsley. (Serves 6).

Gravlax With Mustard Sauce

This dish is the New Year's Eve favorite of actor Sylvester Stallone. Even though it takes two days to make, there is nothing difficult in the preparation and the results can be extraordinary.

2 fillets of raw salmon, each about 3/4 kilo, with all bones removed but with the skin left intact
3 - 4 large bunches fresh dill (about 225 gr.)with tough ends and stems trimmed
3 Tbsp. peppercorns, preferably white
5 Tbsp. sugar
3 Tbsp. coarse salt
mustard sauce (see following recipe)

Spread half of the dill in a layer of dill on the bottom of an oval dish large enough to hold 1 salmon fillet without crowding. Place one of the salmon fillets skin-side down on top of the dill. Place the other fillet skin-side down on a flat surface.

Using a mortar and pestle or with the bottom of a clean, heavy skillet, crush the peppercorns coarsely. Mix together the sugar,salt and crushed peppercorns. Sprinkle half of this mixture over each of the filets. Cover the fillet in the oval dish with the remaining dill and then cover the dill with the second fillet, placing it skin-side up. Cover the fillets with plastic wrap and on this place a heavy flat weight (such as an oval dish) filled with 4 kilos or more of weight. Refrigerate overnight.

Remove the weights and the weight cover from the salmon. Carefully turn the salmon "sandwich" so that the skin side of what was the bottom fillet is now on top. Replace the weight cover and weights and return to the refrigerator.

Turn the salmon every 12 - 24 hours until it is to be served, for a minimum of 2 days. Baste the fish often with the liquid that accumulates around it. Always replace the weight cover and weights before returning to the refrigerator.

When ready to serve, scrape away the dill and pat the salmon fillets dry. Carve each half into thin diagonal slices and cut away the skin. Serve with mustard sauce. (Serves 12).

Mustard Sauce

1/4 cup spicy brown mustard
1/4 Dijon mustard
6 Tbsp. apple vinegar or white wine vinegar
6 Tbsp. sugar
salt to taste
fresh ground pepper, to taste
1 cup corn or peanut oil
1 cup chopped fresh dill
2 Tbsp. Cognac

Put the two mustards, vinegar, sugar, salt and pepper in a mixing bowl. Start beating with a wire whisk while adding the oil in a thin stream (much as you would in making mayonnaise). When all of the oil is added, stir in the dill and the Cognac. (Yields about 2 cups).

© Daniel Rogov