"It is easier", the Talmud says, "to raise a legion of olive trees in Galilee than to bring up one child in the land of Israel". Precisely what this says about the difficulties of raising children in ancient or modern Israel is hard to say, but it is clear that the olive has been an inescapable fact of life in the Mediterranean region for thousands of years.

While Americans and the English tend to look upon the olive as a somewhat rare and often expensive treat, olives have been eaten as an Israeli staple and olive oil has been used for cooking, lighting and anointing the body during religious observances since earliest times. The wealth of many of the regional peoples since the Minoans was largely centered about the cultivation of olives, for these hardy fruits succeeded in the area like no other crop.

Flourishing with a minimum of care in often harsh lands where less hardy fruit trees would wither and die, the olive crop has been constantly increasing for at least 30 centuries. Frequently mentioned in the Bible, the New Testament and the Koran, one of the most lasting emblems of peace has been that of the olive branch.

Olive trees in Israel fall into three categories: very young (those planted less than 50 years ago); moderately young (50 - 300 years old); and mature trees, some of which grow from root systems nearly 2,000 years old. While Jews tend to prune their olive trees regularly for more uniform growth, Arabs allow their trees to grow to their maximum height, sometimes exceeding 8 meters (24 feet). Frequently the trees burst open, leaving what appear to be thin shells supporting huge living creatures; sometimes new, unpruned shoots from the root system grow up through the parent tree and a whole cluster of trees seems to be growing from one body. The result may be structural pandemonium, but the sight is glorious.

The following recipes, all popular within Israel, will serve from 4 - 6.

Olives with Anchovy Butter

2 cups green olives, pitted
6 - 8 anchovy fillets
6 Tbsp. butter, softened
black pepper to taste

In a mortar pound the anchovy fillets and add the butter, blending together thoroughly. Season to taste with pepper, rub through a sieve and with this mixture stuff the olives. Serve cold as part of an hors d'oeuvre platter.

Herbed Olives

1 lb. (450 gr..) large black olives
1/4 lb (115 gr.) spring onions, sliced
about 3 Tbsp. olive oil
1 Tbsp. wine vinegar
1 tsp. each oregano and rosemary, chopped
2 - 3 cloves garlic, chopped coarsely
salt, pepper and paprika to taste

Wash the olives in cold water and dry well. Transfer the olives to a bowl, add the spring onions, sprinkle over the oil and vinegar and season with salt, pepper and paprika. Stir well. Add the oregano, rosemary and garlic, toss well and refrigerate. Serve cold as part of an hors d'oeuvre platter.

Leg of Lamb with Olive Sauce

1 leg of lamb, about 5 lb. (2 1/2 kilos)
about 1 lb. (450 gr.) lamb bones
3 large carrots, diced
3 large onions, chopped coarsely
3/4 lb. (375 gr.) black olives, pitted and chopped
1 can anchovy fillets, about 2 oz (60 gr.), rinsed under cold water and then mashed
2 Tbsp. parsley, chopped finely
1 bouquet garni made by tying together 3 sprigs of parsley, 1 bay leaf, several celery leaves and fresh thyme
4 - 5 cloves garlic, cut in slivers
1 tsp. garlic, chopped finely
juice of 1/2 lemon 1/4 tsp.
paprika salt and pepper to taste
olive oil as required

Prepare a stock by combining the lamb bones, carrots, onions, bouquet garni and 3 1/2 cups of cold water. Season with salt and pepper, cover, bring just to the point of boiling and then immediately reduce the flame so that the stock simmers gently for 1 hour.

In the leg of lamb make insertions with a very sharp knife and in each place a sliver of garlic. Rub the meat with salt and pepper and then with olive oil. Place in a roasting pan and place in a preheated hot oven for 15 minutes.

Reduce the oven temperature to 325 degrees Fahrenheit (170 Celsius) and continue to roast the meat, basting often with the drippings and oil until the meat is done. Remove the lamb to a preheated platter and set aside to keep warm.

From the pan juices spoon off the excess fat and discard. Strain the stock and add 1 cup to the pan juices. Place the pan over a medium flame and stir well, scraping all the particles that stick to the pan. Add the remaining stock, stirring constantly and boil the mixture down until it leaves about 2 cups of gravy. Add the olives, anchovies, parsley, garlic, lemon juice and paprika and heat through, stirring constantly until well blended. Correct the seasoning with salt and pepper to taste. Carve the lamb and serve the gravy in a separate sauce plate.

© Daniel Rogov