No one knows precisely where the art of cooking on an outdoor grill started. There is a good chance, however, that it started accidentally, some 75,000 years ago, when Paleolithic men and women discovered that meat cooked on a slab of stone or grill above a fire tasted considerably better than food that was eaten raw or had simply been tossed onto an open fire.

Whatever its ancestry, grilling over red-hot charcoals has been an extremely popular way of preparing foods in the region of the Holy Land for at least four millennia. The ancient warriors and seafarers of the region, for example, gained enormous pleasure from dining at simple wood tables that were set with huge quantities of grilled meat and vegetables. Even though this tradition had taken root in the region of the Holy Land, it became so popular that it eventually passed on to the Greeks. In fact, so fixed has this image of heroic dining become in our minds, it is difficult to think otherwise of Odysseus and his crew than as comfortably settled in on a beach, the aroma of a grilling oxen on the spit and enormous portions of wine to whet their already well honed appetites.

During Biblical days, from the shore of the Sea of Galilee to that of the Mediterranean Sea, grilled foods were so popular that there is a good chance that wherever one went the air would have the scent of grilling meats. According to Biblical accounts we know that during the siege of Jericho, Joshua's soldiers feasted on roasted lambs; that King David adored quails that had been filled with fresh herbs before they were grilled; and that several of the ancient kings of Judea and Samaria entertained friends and foes alike with feasts of lamb, olives, pomegranates and melons, all of which had been prepared on the grill.

Even though we have passed from the Biblical Age to the Post-Industrial Age, outdoor cooking has not only survived but gained in popularity in modern-day Israel. Despite an abundance of modern electrical and gas operated kitchen appliances, there are few charms greater than that of grilling a steak or spit-roasting a trout over hot charcoals. To add to the charm of this style of cooking, Israelis have even devised methods for preparing vegetables and fruits on the grill.

Because many Israelis so enjoy grilled foods they have learned to make grill cookery a simple affair that does not rely on expensive or fancy equipment. For the simplest grilling, needs are few: a brazier (called a mangel in Hebrew to hold coals; a grid over it on which to place the food; tongs for turning and serving; and a brush or swab for basting. To these essentials one might choose to add some sort of fire-tending tool (a small rake or hoe, the kind sold for tending window-boxes) and a toy water pistol (for dousing flare-ups caused by fat dripping on coals). Another useful tool is a pair of square or rectangular grids with a handle on one side and hinges on the other. This helps to sandwich the food being cooked between the two grids and makes turning the food simple. One should never spear meat or fish with a fork to turn as this allows the juices to escape, and with the juice goes much of the flavor. If a sandwich style grid is not used, food should be turned with tongs.

Each of the following dishes is popular in modern-day Israel. Unless otherwise noted, the recipes are designed to serve 4 - 6.

Grilled Salmon on Skewers

about 1 cup of fresh herbs such as dill, basil or tarragon
1/2 kilo salmon fillets
1 Tbsp. coarse salt
1 1/2 tsp. sugar
olive oil as required

Lightly oil a large plate and on the oil lay the fresh herbs, distributing evenly. Sprinkle the flesh side of the fish with salt and sugar and lay the fish, flesh side down, on top of the herbs. Cover with a damp cloth and refrigerate for 24 - 36 hours.

Remove the salmon from the plate and cut into thick slices about 5 cm. long. Thread several of the slices onto either a bamboo or metal skewer and place on the grill over preheated hot charcoals. Cook for 30 - 45 seconds, turn the skewers and cook for another 30 - 45 seconds on the second side. Serve immediately.


Grilled Lettuce with Feta Cheese

1/2 cup olive oil
salt and pepper to taste
6 medium lettuces, cut in half
600 gr. feta cheese
3 peaches or apricots, peeled and sliced
lemon wedges for serving

Spoon the olive oil onto a platter and season well with salt and pepper. Roll the lettuce halves in the oil, coating well and then place the halves on the grill, cut side down. Cook over hot charcoals for 4 - 5 minutes (longer if necessary), basting with the olive oil and turning occasionally.

Distribute the lettuce halves on individual plates and on each plate place a portion of feta cheese, slices of fruit and lemon wedges. Drip over with a bit of olive oil. Serve at once.

Sea Bass with Chili-Coriander Butter

For the fish:
1 whole sea bass or several smaller fish, weighing in all about 2 kilos, with the head and tail intact
juice of 2 lemons
2 tsp. salt
4 cloves garlic, chopped very finely
2 hot chili peppers, chopped

For the Chili-Coriander Butter:
2 shallots or the white parts of 4 spring onions, chopped coarsely
1 - 2 chili peppers, seeded and chopped coarsely
1 1/2 cups fresh coriander, chopped coarsely
2 Tbsp. lemon juice
2 tsp. grated lemon rind
1/2 tsp. salt
pepper to taste
1 cup butter, melted

With a sharp knife make diagonal slits in both sides of the fish. In a small bowl combine the lemon juice, salt, garlic and chili peppers and rub this mixture into the fish, inside and out. Cover the fish and set aside for 2 - 3 hours.

Just before cooking the fish, combine all of the ingredients for the chili-coriander butter, adding the butter last.

Place the fish on an oiled grill over hot charcoals and brush well with the chili-coriander butter. Cook until the fish is done (about for 10 - 12 minutes on each side) and then serve at once with the remaining butter in a sauce bowl.

Chicken Livers with Herbed Butter

1 kilo chicken livers, trimmed
2 Tbsp. olive oil
salt and pepper to taste
3/4 cup butter
3 cloves garlic, minced
4 shallots or the white parts of 8 spring onions, chopped finely
4 Tbsp. each thyme and parsley, both chopped
2 Tbsp. Dijon style mustard
4 Tbsp. chives, snipped
2 Tbsp. lemon juice
pinch of cayenne pepper
snipped chives, for garnish

In a mixing bowl toss the chicken livers together with the olive oil and season with salt and pepper.

Melt the butter and stir in all of the remaining ingredients except the chives, seasoning to taste with salt and pepper.

Skewer the chicken livers on bamboo or metal skewers and place them on an oiled grill above hot charcoals. Cook for about 2 minutes on each side, basting well with the herbed butter. Pour the remaining butter over the chicken livers to serve and garnish with the chives.

Spiced Grilled Pumpkin

4 or 6 pieces of pumpkin, each about 350 grams
3 Tbsp.
1 tsp. nutmeg
1 tsp. cinnamon
1 tsp. powdered allspice
1/2 tsp. salt
1/4 cup melted butter

Remove the seeds and pith from the interior of the pumpkin pieces and score the flesh deeply with the tines of a fork in a crisscross pattern. In a small jar combine the sugar, spices and salt and sprinkle over the flesh. Sprinkle with the melted butter and then cook on the grid, skin side down at the edge of the coals, turning occasionally so the pieces will cook evenly. Allow 35 - 45 minutes cooking time and eat with spoons from the skin.

© Daniel Rogov