From a culinary point of view, the Jews of Hungary were in an enviable position, for the cuisine of Hungary is an admirable one, surely the most sophisticated of any Central European nation. Of culinary things distinctly Hungarian, one cannot help but call to mind goulash, the favorite dish, and paprika, the favorite spice of Hungarians whether they find themselves in sophisticated Budapest or rural Koposvar. Most modern Hungarians either do not know or have chosen to forget that while goulash has been around for more than fourteen centuries, paprika is a later addition to their diet, the spice having been brought by the Turks during their 16th century occupation.

Despite the fact that paprika is a relative late-comer to their tables, Hungarians prescribe it, whether taken internally or applied externally, as a cure for nearly anything that can ail a human being. So popular is this spice that it is found, even in the poorest of markets, in no less than eight varieties - each boasting a uniquely different taste and level of sharpness.

The only major change that Jews had to make in adapting to the local cuisine was to avoid the use of pork, by far the most popular meat in the country. In fact, nearly every cooked dish is, at one time or another, rubbed, wrapped or sauteed in pork fat. This posed no real problem, however, as kashrut allows for the use of no less satisfying goose fat in cookery.

I first dined on the following meal in a kosher restaurant in Budapest while on a visit there about fifteen years ago. I have enjoyed the same dinner, replicated on several occasions, in the home of Hungarian friends who now live in Jerusalem. The recipes are designed to serve 4 - 6.

The Appetizer

Cold Asparagus with Walnuts

750 gr fresh asparagus
1 cup walnuts, chopped finely
6 Tbsp. sugar
1/4 cup each soy sauce and vinegar
1 - 2 Tbsp. walnut or sesame oil
pepper to taste

Tie the asparagus in serving bunches and stand in a high pot with several inches of salted water. Bring to the boil, cover and let cook just until tender (6 - 8 minutes). Drain well and arrange on a serving dish. Mix together the remaining ingredients and pour over the asparagus, lifting the asparagus so the dressing penetrates. Sprinkle with pepper, cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate. Remove from the refrigerator 15 minutes before serving.

The Main Course and Side Dishes

Tongue in Wine Sauce

l pickled beef tongue, about 2 kilos
1 Tbsp. cornflour
8 bay leaves
10 whole peppercorns
2 tsp. dill
1 cup port wine
1 Tbsp. butter
1 tsp. sweet paprika
1 Tbsp. cornflour
3 cups beef stock

Remove the fatty end of the tongue (and reserve for future use in soup or stew). Place the tongue in a large kettle, add the stock and then add enough water to cover. Add 5 of the bay leaves, the peppercorns and the dill. Bring to a boil, reduce the flame and cook until the tongue is soft (about 2 hours). Peel under cold running water and let cool.

In a saucepan boil the wine with the remaining bay leaves until the wine is reduced by half. Remove from the flame, add the butter and the paprika, mixing well. While the sauce is still hot sprinkle over the cornflour, mix well and continue to mix until the sauce thickens. Slice the tongue thinly and heat the slices in the sauce. Serve hot.

Egg Barley
Tarhonya

For the Egg Barley:
10 heaping Tbsp. flour
1 egg
1 tsp. oil
1/2 tsp. salt

For Cooking:
1 cup butter
1 tsp. paprika
chicken stock as required
salt and pepper to taste

On a large pastry board put the flour and in the center of the pile make a well.

In a cup lightly beat together the egg, salt, oil, and 1 Tbsp. water. Drop this mixture into the well and work the mixture with the hands, folding the four over the egg mixture until the dough can be rolled into a ball. Knead this mixture by folding the dough over towards the body. Press with the heel of the hand and give a slight turn. Fold, press and turn again and continue this process until the dough is smooth and elastic.

Divide the dough into 2 balls and let stand, uncovered, for 30 minutes and then grate the balls on the coarse side of a grater, letting the gratings fall on a clean towel. Continue to move the grater so that the dough spreads to one thin layer spread over the entire cloth. Let stand and dry for 6 - 8 hours.

In a large skillet melt 3/4 cup of the butter and when thoroughly hot add the grains, stirring with a wooden spoon to brown evenly. The finished grains should be barely browned. Add the paprika, saute for 2 minutes longer and then just cover with stock. Cover and simmer until the grains are soft (30 - 40 minutes). Drain whatever liquids remain. Add the remaining butter, toss, season to taste with salt and peper and serve at once.

Cucumber Salad
Ugorkasalata

4 cucumbers, peeled and thinly sliced
1/4 cup wine vinegar
2 Tbsp. sugar
1 clove garlic, mashed
1/2 tsp. crushed cumin seeds
generous pinch of red paprika
black pepper to taste
parsley, chopped, for garnish

Place the sliced cucumbers in a glass bowl and sprinkle liberally with salt, stirring. Let stand for 1 hour and then drain the accumulated liquids. Dry the cucumber slices on paper toweling and then return to the bowl.

Combine the wine vinegar, sugar, garlic, paprika and pepper and mix well. Pour over the cucumbers, tossing well. Over the top sprinkle the cumin and parsley. Serve lightly chilled or at room temperature.

© Daniel Rogov