Several years ago, I found myself in Venice at the onset of Purim (which this year falls on 18 March). Happily, it was at precisely the same time as Carnival. Be there no question but that Carnival in Venice is one of the most fun packed experiences one can experience. It is also a time at which the specialties of Venice are most in order and, in keeping with the frivolous mood of both Purim and Carnival, I feasted on the following traditional dishes. Each of the recipes is designed to serve 6.

Stuffed Veal Rolls with Fruit Mustard
Involtini alla mostarda di Cremona

200 grams Chorizo or similar sausage, skinned and broken up with a fork
2 Tbsp. white bread or challah soaked in milk and squeezed dry
2 egg yolks
2 Tbsp. Parmesan cheese, grated
salt and pepper to taste
about 900 grams very thin veal scallops
300 grams fruit mustard (see following recipe)
1/4 cup butter
1/4 cup dry white wine

Mix together the sausage meat, soaked bread, egg yolks and Parmesan cheese. Season with salt and pepper to taste and mix well.

Pound the veal slices lightly and divide the sausage mixture among them. On each place 1 tsp. of the fruit mustard and roll up the veal, tying each roll with a piece of string. Heat the butter in a frying pan over a moderate flame and cook the veal rolls for 15 minutes, turning often so they brown evenly on all sides.

Remove the veal from the skillet and set aside. Add the wine to the skillet and, over a low flame, scrape the bottom of the skillet well. Add 2 Tbsp. of water, return the veal to the skillet and cook over a low flame for 10 minutes longer, adding a bit of water if necessary to keep the bottom of the pan moist. Serve with the remaining fruit mustard.


Fruit Mustard
Mustarda di Cremona

2 small pears, peeled
2 plums, pitted
2 apricots, pitted
2 fresh figs, halved
300 gr. cherries, pitted
2 cups sugar
juice of 1/2 lemon
1/2 cup dry white wine
1 1/4 cups honey
1/2 cup powdered mustard (ideally use Coleman's English mustard)

Put the pears, plums, apricots, figs and cherries in a saucepan and add water just to cover. Add the sugar and lemon juice, stir and bring to a boil. Reduce the flame and cook over a low flame for 10 minutes. Drain the fruits, reserving the syrup.

Distribute the fruits on a baking pan and place in an oven that has been heated to 120 degrees Celsius just until the fruits are dry (about 30 minutes).

Pour the wine into a saucepan and add the honey and reserved syrup, stirring well. Bring to a boil and boil over a moderate flame for about 5 minutes. Add the mustard, mix well and remove from the heat.

Put the fruit into sterilized jars and pour the syrup over to barely cover. When completely cool, seal carefully and store in a cool, dry place. (May be stored for up to 6 months in completely sterile jars. Once the jars are opened, refrigerate).

Liver and Onions Venetian Style
Fegato Alla Veneziana


1/2 cup parsley, chopped finely
1/2 cup olive oil
1/2 cup butter
4 large onions, sliced thinly
1 kilo calves' liver, sliced very thinly
1/4 cup hot chicken or beef stock, if required
salt and pepper to taste
4 slices white bread or challah, with crusts removed and fried in butter

Put the parlsey, oil and half the butter in a skillet and heat just until the mixture is hot. Add the onions and fry gently until the onions are soft but net yet brown. With a slotted spoon remove the onions and set aside.

Add the remaining butter to the skillet and heat. In this saute the liver over a high flame (if the skillet dries out, add a little of the hot stock). Season to taste with salt and peper.

To serve, arrange the onions on a preheated serving dish, lay the slices of liver on top and surround with the hot bread croutons. Serve immediately, ideally with mashed potatoes.


Pera alla Gay
Brandied Peaches with Almonds

1 cup sweet cream
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
3 Tbsp. sugar
2 Tbsp. butter
6 pears, peeled and quartered
3 Tbsp. brandy, slightly warmed
250 gr. unsweetened chocolate, grated
100 gr. toasted almonds, shelled and chopped

By hand or with an electric beater, whip the cream until it is stiff. Gently fold in 2 Tbsp. of the sugar and the vanilla extract. Refrigerate until ready for use.

In a skillet heat the butter over a low flame and in this dissolve the remaining sugar, stirring constantly. To this add the pears and fry on all sides 5 - 6 minutes. Over the pears pour half the brandy. Carefully flame and let burn out. Divide the pears in 6 dessert dishes.

Place the chocolate in a small skillet and, over the lowest possible flame, let melt, stirring constantly. Add half the chopped nuts and pour in the remaining brandy. Let warm, carefully flame and let burn out. Leave the saucepan over a very low flame, stirring constantly, until the sauce is thick. Remove from the flame, pour the sauce over the pears and add 2 - 3 tbs. of the whipped cream to each dish. Garnish with the remaining nuts.

© Daniel Rogov