Everybody knows that the ancient Egyptians were superb mathematicians and engineers. This was the land in which geometry was born and where the pyramids were built. Not nearly as many are aware of the enormous contribution to modern dining habits made by these same people.

About 5,000 years ago, Egyptians bakers discovered the secret of leavening. Not too many years later, other cooks, probably in the area of Alexandria, invented the first ovens that were small enough to fit into the average home. The Egyptians also had the wisdom to realize that by combining olive oil, lemon juice and egg yolks you could produce the wonderful condiment known today as "mayonnaise". And, much to the dismay of people who love Marco Polo and all of the myths surrounding his trip to the Orient, it was the Egyptians who invented pasta.

Today's Egyptians are probably the world's leading per-capita consumers of bread; eat more beans than the members of any other national group; and thrive on garlic and coriander, both of which are popular seasonings. The diet of most peasants consists primarily of grains, fruits and vegetables, meat being scarce and expensive. For families that are somewhat better off, Mediterranean and Red Sea fish are popular and fowl is much appreciated.

Although the Jews of Alexandria and Cairo did not make any major impact on the culinary styles of Egypt, they did adapt many dishes to the special requirements of kashrut. The following dinner, a blend of comfortable sophistication and simple but tasty fare, is one I was privileged to share on a recent visit to Alexandria. The dinner, designed for 4, will sit comfortably on the table of either Jew or Muslim.

The Appetizer

Bean Cakes
Ta'amia

250 gr. pea beans, chickpeas or ful beans
1 1/2 tsp. salt
1 Tbsp. minced onion
2 Tbsp. parsley, minced
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 egg, beaten lightly
1 Tbsp. flour
olive or corn oil for frying

Soak the beans overnight in cold water. Drain, cover with cold water, add the salt and simmer until the beans are done but still firm (about 45 minutes). Drain, reserving the water.

Mix the beans together with the onion, parsley and garlic and puree through a strainer, adding just enough of the reserved water to prevent sticking. Blend the flour together with the eggs and mix into the beans.

In a heavy skillet heat about 1" (2 1/2 cm) of the oil and into this drop the mixture by heaping tablespoonfuls. Fry, turning occasionally until both sides are golden and crusty. Drain on paper toweling and serve hot. To serve as an appetizer, place on plates, surrounded with tomato slices and onion rings and garnished with lemon wedges. May also be served as a snack or for lunch with tomato slices and shredded lettuce inside a pita bread.

The Soup

Pecan Soup

1 cup pecans, chopped finely
1 cup milk
1/2 cup breadcrumbs
2 Tbsp. flour
2 Tbsp. butter
3 cups chicken or vegetable stock, ideally home-made
1/4 tsp. mace
1/3 cup light cream
1/4 cup finely chopped parsley
salt and pepper to taste

Put the pecans, milk, breadcrumbs and flour in a saucepan and bring just to the point of boiling, stirring constantly. Remove immediately from the flame.

In a large saucepan melt the butter and stir in the milk mixture. Slowly blend in the stock and mace. Bring to a boil and immediately lower the flame and simmer gently for 5 minutes. Stir in the cream, salt and pepper, pour into individual serving bowls and garnish each with parsley. Serve hot.

The Main Course and Vegetable

Sea Bass with Garlic Butter

4 sea bass, about 500 gr. each
1/2 cup butter
2 lemons, quartered
1 lemon, sliced
10 cloves garlic, chopped finely
salt and pepper to taste
oil for frying

Clean the fish and dry well on paper toweling. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

In a heavy skillet heat oil at least 1" (2 ½ cm.) deep and in this fry each fish until nearly done. Remove the fish from the oil and transfer to a baking dish.

In a separate skillet melt the butter over a low flame. Add the garlic cloves and stir continuously until the butter begins to brown. Pour the garlic butter over the fish and on each fish place 2 lemon slices. Cover and put in a hot oven until the fish flakes easily to the touch of a fork (about 6 - 8 minutes). Serve hot with the lemon quarters.

Baked Fennel in White Sauce

For the Sauce:
3 Tbsp. butter
about 2 Tbsp. flour
1 1/2cups milk
l small onion, studded with 3 whole cloves
1/2 small bay leaf
salt and pepper as necessary

For the Fennel:
4 large fennel bulbs
1/4 cup butter, melted
1 tsp. each pepper and dill seed
1/2 tsp. salt

Clean the fennel bulbs, removing the stems, stalks and ferns. Cook in 2 liters of boiling water with the salt, pepper, dill seed and butter until the fennel is tender.

While the fennel is cooking, prepare the sauce. In a saucepan, over a low flame melt the butter. Add and blend in the flour, cooking gently and stirring constantly for 3 - 5 minutes. Continuing to stir, slowly add the milk. Add the onion and bay leaf and continue to cook and stir the sauce (ideally with a whisk) until thick and smooth. Transfer the sauce to a medium oven for 20 minutes. Before using, strain the sauce and correct the seasoning with salt and pepper to taste.

Drain the fennel and cut into 1" (2 1/2 cm) pieces. Place these in a casserole and spoon over the butter. Transfer to the oven until the fennel begins to brown, remove from the oven and spoon over the sauce. Serve hot.

The Dessert

Palace Bread
Esh es Seraya

225 gr. honey
125 gr. each sugar and butter
1 1/2 cup fresh white breadcrumbs
whipped cream for serving

In a saucepan heat the honey together with the sugar and butter until the mixture thickens. Add the breadcrumbs and continue cooking, stirring regularly, until the mixture is even throughout. Turn out onto a moistened pie tin and spread so that the mixture is evenly thick throughout. Let cool. To serve, cut into triangular portions and top each with whipped cream.

© Daniel Rogov