Posted 25 January 2001

That the Israeli wine industry has made enormous strides in the last twenty years is beyond question. I am personally convinced, however, that not an iota of credit for this remarkable progress can be given to the Israeli Wine Institute. In fact, in the more than quarter century since it was established, the Institute has met none of its stated goals.

Unlike the Wine Institutes of foreign national or regional areas (Chile, Bordeaux, California, etc.), the Israeli institute has failed to encourage the export of Israeli wines, has done nothing significant to expand the awareness of wine culture in Israel and with the exception of the development of the Argaman grape (which both those who raise grapes and those who make wines generally agree to be a failure), has done very little to encourage the development and planting of new varietals of grapes that are appropriate for local microclimates. The institute has never published a single page of promotional material about Israeli wines; has collected no valid statistics on the wine industry; and has no formal contacts with similar organizations in any other wine raising country. The appearance of one or two of the Institute's representation at but their complete non-participation in international wine fairs (such as VinExpo) have not done anything at all for the image of Israeli wines and, although they have not succeeded in encouraging or enforcing adherence to legally required labeling practices, they do enforce a set of rules concerning imports that are so complex and clumsy that many importers throw up their hands in despair.

What the Wine Institute Should be Doing

It is said that free advice is worth precisely what you pay for it, but in the hope that someone may actually be listening, following is a brief list of the functions that I believe the Israeli Wine Institute should be fulfilling:

1. Representing the wine industry locally and abroad by publishing and distributing educational, promotional, and statistical materials; marketing and promoting Israeli wines abroad; and having a major presence at wine fairs and seminars abroad.

2. Sponsoring wine related events locally, including the invitation of major wine personalities from abroad.

3. Serving as the organizing body behind wine education both for the public and for members of the wine and restaurant industries.

4. Sponsoring annual tastings under formal competition rules and providing awards for the best Israeli wines.

5. Organizing trips and study tours for winemakers.

6. Working together with the tourism ministry and sponsoring wine tours of the country.

7. Providing serious research on new varietals of grapes and determining which grapes are best suited to different sub-regions within the country.

8. Encouraging an atmosphere of cooperation rather than distrust between local wineries.

9. Promoting and enforcing standards in labeling practices that will better protect local consumers and place the nation on an international standard.

10. Devising a formal and logical categorization of wine growing regions and sub-regions that is in accordance with international practices.

11. Providing laboratory services at reasonable prices, while simultaneously allowing certified private laboratories to also fulfill this role.

12. Standardizing and simplifying import requirements so that they are in line with those of the United States and the European Community. Many agree that in order for these goals to be met, the institute must go through a major reorganization. For example, membership should be opened to all wineries in the country and to wine importers; the government must increase its funding level to arealistic level; and remaining operational funds must come equally from all members, thus ensuring that no member can dominate the activities of the institute. Agreement is also wide on the fact that the functions of the institute should be broken into two parallel areas - technical and administrative. The administrative, branch should include the public relations, educational and promotional aspects.

Nearly all of the interested parties agree that for such a reorganization to take place, a new guiding statement is required. Such a statement of goals was proposed as long as nine years ago, but for some reason has never gone beyond the arguing and debating stages.

Among Things That The Institute Should Not Be Doing

Over the years, the institute has regularly made experimental wines, that is to say, small batches of wines meant primarily as learning tools for the winemakers who participate in their activities. In recent days, Shlomo Cohen, the Chief Executive Officer of the Institute has decided that it would be appropriate to sell those wines on the open market. Cohen says that this is a valid way for the institute to raise funds for its activities. Others are wondering just how moral it is for a local wine institute to enter the market and compete with the very boutique wineries it is supposed to be helping.

After a tasting of each of these wines (17 wines in all of which about 8,000 bottles were produced), one can conclude that in this attempt too the wine institute has failed. While it is true that the labeling procedures follow the law to the letter, the wines themselves are distinctly second class. That the wines appear in so many different styles of bottles and with so many different kinds of cork is merely amusing, perhaps demonstrating that finally the Institute has found a use for the bottles and corks that must be submitted for "testing" by every winery in the country. As always, my scores are based on a maximum of 100 points. None of the wines tasted proved excellent. Wines with scores between 80 - 84 are good but fall short of being excellent; wines earning 70- 79 are average but at least somewhat faulted; and those earning under 70 points are decidedly poor in my opinion. As to value for money, let it be stated simply that I found many of the prices simply outrageous and found none of the wines to be good value for money.

Red Wines

Cabernet Sauvignon, Reserve, 1998: A tasty but tough Cabernet, with spicy, oaky aromas and black cherry flavors. The wine would have been better had it been more dense and tannic. Drink now.
NIS 150.00. Score 84.

Cabernet Sauvignon, Reserve, n.v.: There are two versions of this wine, one bottled on 3 April 2000 and the other on 15 June, the first of which costs NIS 75 and the second NIS 55. Both have appealing aromas of cassis and herbs and flavors of plums and licorice. Medium bodied and with modest tannins, the wines are fully ready to drink now. Score for both wines: 82.

Merlot, Reserve, n.v.: Some will find it amusing and others will sneer at the fact that the institute has labeled several non-vintage wines as "Reserve". By whatever name, this medium bodied wine has plenty of herbal, plum and cherry flavors. NIS 75.00 Score 84.

Merlot, n.v. : Lacking depth and backbone, with what may be a hint of mint but without any real fruit aromas or flavors. NIS 45. Score 75.

Merlot-Cabernet Sauvignon, Reserve, n.v.: With herbal, perhaps even swampy aromas that dominate and very little fruit in its flavors, this wine lacks appeal. NIS 80. Score 68.

Sirah, Reserve, 1998: Sirah is the name by which the Petite Sirah grape s known in South America and is not to be confused with the Syrah of the Rhone valley. Whatever, this particular wine is light, fruity and lively but is lacking in body and has a finish that is somewhat sour. The price, of NIS 150 might lead one to think that this is a fine wine. It is not. Score 78.

Shiraz, Reserve, 1998: Lacking the depth and backbone that typifies wines made from Shiraz grapes (the Australian name for the Syrah grape), and with none of the blackberries, plums and other fruits and spices that typify this wine. NIS 85. Score 75.

Argaman, n.v.: A wine that fails in every way. So watery that even the deep color that typifies this wine is lacking and with flavors that are flat and border on sour, this is a wine that fails in every way.
NIS 36.50. Score 60.

Tempranillo, Reserve, 1998: With aromas that are dirty and show not even a hint of the strawberries, spices, wild berries and tobacco that typify this wine, this is far from a notable effort. NIS 80.
Score 65.

Barbera, 1998: This noble Piedmont grape lacks depth of color, has too low tannins and a surprising lack of fruit in its aromas and flavors. NIS 80. Score 72.

Sangiovese Reserve, 1998: As demonstrated by the best examples of Brunello di Montalcino, the Sangiovese grape can produce truly great wines. Pale in color and so fruity that you might think you were drinking cherry juice, this local example is not one of those. NIS 68.50. Score 76.

Nebiollo-Sangiovese-Barbera, n.v.: This blend of three noble Italian grapes gives us a light but pleasant little wine. Soft and round, crisp, straightforward and easy to drink. NIS 43. Score 84.

Chardonnay, Reserve, 1998: A simple blend of acidity and alcohol, but with little fruit flavor and almost none of the traditional Chardonnay character. Perhaps acceptable for use in making punch.
NIS 41. Score 76.

Chardonnay-Sauvignon Blanc, n.v.: Aggressive herbal flavors dominate this thick-textured wine. A few light melon and pineapple aromas and flavors but not enough to make the wine balanced. NIS 41.
Score 76.

Chardonnay, Special Reserve, 1997: With too much earthiness, this awkward and tired wine shows little fruit or freshness. NIS 65. Score 73

© Daniel Rogov