Because Jerusalem boasts more than a dozen Romanian restaurants many Israelis have come to associate the cookery of this Balkan land primarily with lemon-flavored soups and grilled meats. This is fine because ciorba, a thick and hearty soup based on chicken stock, lemon juice, boiled beef and carrots, beans, okra and tomatoes is a marvelous treat.

Nor can one fault the traditional Romanian mixed grill. Cooked over open charcoals, garlicky minced meat patties, steak, liver and seasoned kebabs are a carnivore's delight. Those who like variety meats will also find the brain, spinal cord and kidneys that make up a part of this grill much to their taste.

As delicious as these dishes may be, they are not fully representative of the rich Romanian kitchen. This is a style of cookery that may best be described as earthy. With few frills, Romanian cooks have evolved a country-style cuisine that falls somewhere between the dishes we normally associate with Europe and those of the Middle-East. Sausages are popular as they are in Central Europe but minced meat patties like the garlicky beef mititei are skewer grilled, like Middle Eastern kebabs. Tarator, the favorite cold yoghurt and cucumber soup of Romania is another dish that has many Middle-Eastern cousins.

While the Jews of Romania did not make significant contributions to the cookery of that nation, they had little trouble in adopting this this style of cookery to the needs of kashrut. The following meal will serve 6.

Marinated Mushrooms

4 Tbs. olive oil
1 1/2 Tbsp. vinegar or lemon juice
1 clove garlic, chopped finely
1/2 tsp. each salt, black pepper and dry mustard
pinch each paprika and oregano
3 Tbsp. chives, chopped finely
1 1/2 Tbsp. parsley, chopped finely
1 1/2 cup small mushrooms, sliced thinly, with the stems
lettuce leaves for serving

In a small bowl combine all of the ingredients except the mushrooms and lettuce leaves. With a wire whisk beat these until smooth.

Add the mushrooms to the bowl and stir gently with a wooden spoon, making sure the mushroom slices are all coated with the marinade. Refrigerate and let marinate for 1 - 2 hours, stirring occasionally. Remove the mushrooms with a slotted spoon and serve on lettuce leaves.

Spinach Soup

1/2 kilo spinach
3 Tbsp. butter
3 eggs
juice of 1 large lemon
salt and pepper to taste
7 cups chicken stock or vegetable stock
1 cup croutons
1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese

Remove the heavy stems from the spinach and wash well under running water. Dry the leaves on paper toweling. In a heavy skillet melt the butter and in this saute the spinach leaves until just tender.

In a saucepan bring the stock just to the point of boiling. Reduce the flame and let simmer gently for 4 - 5 minutes.

In a small mixing bowl beat together the eggs, lemon juice, salt and pepper. Add 3 Tbsp. of the hot stock and beat well. Add this mixture to the stock and then add the spinach. Mix briskly, garnish with the cheese and croutons and serve hot.

Fish in Mustard Sauce

1 large mackerel, about 2 1/2 kilos, cleaned
1 tsp. salt
juice of 2 large lemons
2 cloves garlic, chopped finely
1 Tbsp. parsley, chopped finely
1/2 cup olive oil
1 tsp. pepper
1/4 cup butter
1 Tbsp. powdered mustard
1 tsp. flour

Place the fish in a large container, cover with water and add the salt and lemon juice. Let soak for 15 - 20 minutes, drain and dry well. Discard the water.

Combine the garlic and parsley and to these add the oil and pepper. Return the fish to its container, pour over the oil mixture and let stand 15 minutes, turning 2 or 3 times.

Grease a piece of heavy brown paper on both sides. Place the paper in a skillet and place over a very low flame. Place the fish on this paper and cook slowly, spooning over tablespoons of the oil mixture periodically until the fish is tender. Transfer the fish to a preheated serving platter and set aside to keep warm.

In a small saucepan melt the butter and to this add the mustard and flour, stirring until the mixture is even throughout. To this add the remaining oil mixture, stirring constantly. Pour the sauce over the fish just before serving. Serve hot.

Mixed Vegetables

Note: Because this dish, known as ghivetch, is always better when made in large quantities, this recipe will serve 12 - 15. Always better the day after cooking (and even better the day after that), ghivetch may be served hot, lightly chilled or at room temperature and may be accompanied by yoghurt or sour cream. Oh yes...in case you noticed, there is a clear relationship between this Romanian dish and French ratatouille.

4 onions, sliced
1 1/2 cups olive oil
1 small head cabbage, shredded
1 small cauliflower, broke into flowerettes
1/2 kilo lima beans, shelled
8 tomatoes, peeled, seeded and chopped coarsely
6 small potatoes, peeled and cubed
6 small carrots, sliced
125 gr. okra, cut in thick slices
125 gr. string beans, trimmed and halved or quartered
1 green pepper, seeded and cut into strips
the white portions of 3 leeks, sliced
2 or 3 zucchini squash, cubed
2 parsley roots, diced
1 celery root, diced
1 cup sour grapes or 2 sour plums (may used tinned)
1/2 cup parsley, chopped finely
8 - 12 cloves garlic
salt and pepper to taste

In a 5 liter flameproof casserole or Dutch oven heat 1/2 cup of the oil and in this fry the onions until golden brown. Add al of the vegetables, herbs and fruits and mix gently, sprinkling with salt and pepper.

In a saucepan bring the remaining oil to a boil and pour over the vegetables. Cover tightly and cook over a moderate flame until the liquids begin to boil. Transfer to a medium oven until all of the vegetables are cooked and most of the liquids have evaporated (1 - 1 1/2 hours), adding more liquid if the casserole dries out during the cooking. Stir gently once or twice during cooking. Season to taste with the salt and pepper and, if desired, serve with the yoghurt or sour cream.

Spiced Pear Flan

3/4 cup butter, softened
1/2 kilo brown sugar
1 1/2 cups flour
1 1/2 tsp. each ginger and cinnamon, both ground
3 eggs, lightly beaten
6 firm pears, peeled, halved, cored and sliced thinly
whipped cream for serving

Beat the butter until creamy and then beat in 2/3 of the sugar until the mixture is light and fluffy. Combine the flour with half of the cinnamon and all but a pinch of the ginger. Sprinkle these over the butter, add the eggs and beat together well.

Transfer the mixture to a 9" (23 cm.) flan mold and smooth over the top. Place in a preheated medium oven and bake until the mixture is firm and has pulled back from the sides. Turn onto a wire rack and allow to come to room temperature.

Into a saucepan with 4 1/2 Tbsp. cold water, put the remaining sugar and heat over a low flame, stirring, until the sugar is completely absorbed. Add the pears and remaining spices. Heat until the mixture begins to simmer, cover and cook very gently until the pears are tender and nearly translucent (about 10 - 15 minutes). Uncover, increase the flame and cook until the liquids are reduced to a glaze. Turn the pears out onto a lightly dampened plate and let cool completely.

Decorate the cooled flan with the pears and serve with generous amounts of whipped cream.

© Daniel Rogov