One of the most beloved of French bistros dishes is escargots Bourguignonnes. Made by cleaning plump snails that have been fed on white bread, stuffing them back into their shells and then packing the shells with a mixture of butter, parsley and lots of garlic, the dish is then baked in a hot oven. Served piping hot, this is not a difficult or complex dish but when it is prepared well it is a source of joy, the melted butter making a sauce that is ideally finished off by mopping it up with pieces of bread. In each of the following local bistro-style restaurants, the escargots at any of which are bound to please. Even though you can have full meals at any of these places, a feast of a dozen escargots, bread and a glass or two of wine will cost under NIS 150, My nominees for wines to accompany the dish are a well oaked Chardonnay from Australia or a fruity Sauvignon Blanc from California or France.

Itamar : Rothschild 12, Tel Aviv. Open Sunday - Friday 12:00 - 02:00 and on Saturday from 19:00. Tel: 5177403. This is the only restaurant in the country to import snails directly from Burgundy, and the results show magnificently. Charming food in a small, pleasant setting and all of the dishes are worth trying. If someone whispers into your ear that Ita has made a rabbit stew in red wine for herself, do not hesitate to plead for a portion.

Claudine: Mohaliver 2 (in the industrial area), Yahud. Orders taken daily 12:00 - 15:15 and 18:30 - 23:00. Tel: 03 6320693. I always start my meals here with the goose liver before going on to escargots. For a main course try the Rossini-style fillet steak or the slices of mullard breast which comes in a lovely sweet sauce.

Hippopotame: Yirmiahu 12, Tel Aviv. Open daily from 12:00 - 24:00 or later. Telephone 03: 5466348. At this beloved Tel Aviv bistro the snails are always excellent and the entrecote steaks are as good as you will find anywhere in the city. If you like sweet courses, phone in advance and ask owner, Shabi Bahar, to make his unbeatable ile flotante for your dessert.

La Chaumiere: Ben-Gurion 40A, Haifa. Tel 04: 6538563. This attractive and not pretentious, long-established restaurant, features largely bistro style dishes and warm service. After your escargots go on to hot goose liver and then the coquilles St. Jacques in cream sauce.

© Daniel Rogov