For more than five hundred years, Iran has boasted one of the most sophisticated cuisines of the Middle East. Herbs and spices are used lavishly but in remarkably gentle combinations; meat and fruit are frequently cooked together in pleasing ways; and whole, ground and crushed nuts add an unusual but pleasant touch to many dishes.

There are ways, however, in which the Iranian kitchen differs from that one usually associates with the region. Rice and cracked wheat are the favored starch staple, and are served boiled, steamed or in pilaf with the addition of vegetables, fruits and nuts. Whole, ground or crushed nuts are common ingredients and cardamom and cinnamon find their way into many dishes. And, to tie Iran even closer to the Far East, tea rather than coffee is the national drink.

Iran's most famous culinary export is the caviar that comes from the Caspian Sea. While the lightly salted beluga malossol is most highly prized by Westerners, Iranians prefer the less sevruga variety, especially when it is served fresh and not salted. While caviar is not kosher, there were few problems in adapting the cookery of this Moslem country to the needs of the kosher kitchen.

The dinner that follows is one I enjoyed when visiting the home of Iranian Jewish friends in London. Start with the stuffed vine leaves and finish with the fig pastries. The recipes are designed to serve 6.

Stuffed Vine Leaves
Warak Enab

1/2 kilo vine leaves
3/4 cup pitted prunes
1/4 cup pitted cherries (may use tinned)
1/4 cup seedless raisins
1/4 kilo lean ground beef
1/4 cup uncooked rice
2 Tbsp. parsley, chopped finely
1 Tbsp. fresh mint leaves, chopped
1/2 tsp. each salt, black pepper, turmeric
1/2 cup olive oil
2 lemons, thinly sliced with rind

If using fresh grape leaves soak in hot water for 5 - 6 minutes. If tinned leaves are used, soak 5 - 6 hours in cold water. In either case squeeze dry gently between toweling.

Soak the prunes in water for 3 hours. Remove from the water and chop coarsely. Coarsely chop the cherries and raisins.

Combine all the ingredients (except the vine leaves, lemon and oil) and with the mixture fill the leaves, tucking in the edges while rolling. The finished rolled leaves should be about 2" (5 cm.) in length.

Cover the bottom of a shallow pan with half the lemon slices. On these arrange the stuffed leaves. Cover with another layer of lemon slices. Over all pour the oil and 2 cups of water. Cook, covered, over a medium flame for 1 hour.

Remove from the flame and discard the upper layer of lemon slices. With a slotted spoon remove the stuffed leaves from the liquid. If served hot each rolled leaf may be served on one of the cooked lemon slices. If served cold discard the lemon and chill the leaves well.

Chicken w Chickpeas
Djej bil Humous

1/4 kilo chickpeas
6 cloves garlic, halved
salt as required
1 large or 2 medium chickens, about 2 kilos in all
1/2 tsp. each ground ginger and pepper
pinch or two pulverized saffron
1/2 tsp. turmeric
3 Tbsp. parsley, chopped finely
1 stick cinnamon, about 8cm. long (if using 2 chickens, use 2 sticks cinnamon)
1 medium onion, chopped finely
1/4 cup butter
1 medium onion, sliced thinly
3 Tbsp. raisins

Pick over the chickpeas and soak overnight in water to cover.

In a small bowl make a paste of half the garlic cloves and 1 tbs. salt. With this mixture rub the chicken inside and out. Let stand 10 - 15 minutes and then rinse the chicken under running water and pat dry with toweling. In a small bowl combine the ginger, pepper and remaining garlic and grind to a paste. Add 2 Tbsp. of water and mix well. With this mixture rub the chicken inside and out. Cover and refrigerate overnight.

Drain the chickpeas, rinse well and place in a saucepan. Pour over fresh water to cover, bring to the boil and reduce the flame. Cover and simmer until the chickpeas are tender (about 1 hour). Drain the chickpeas and pour over cold water to cover. By rubbing the peas lightly, remove and discard the skins.

To a lightly greased casserole transfer the chicken and pour over any liquids remaining in the bowl. Add the saffron, turmeric, parsley, cinnamon, chopped onion and butter. Pour over 2 cups of water (or stock) and bring to the boil. Reduce the flame, cover and simmer for 1 hour, turning the chicken 4 - 5 times. Remove the chicken and set aside to keep warm.

To the casserole add the sliced onion, cooked chickpeas and raisins and cook until the onions are soft and the sauce has reduced to a thick gravy. Return the chicken to the sauce and heat through. Correct the seasoning with salt and pepper to taste. To serve, transfer the chicken to a preheated deep serving dish, spoon over the chickpeas and sauce and serve immediately.

Date and Orange Salad
Salata Letchini

1 head lettuce
2 Tbsp. each lemon juice, sugar and orange juice
1 Tbsp. orange flower water (optional)
pinch of salt
ground cinnamon to taste
3 large navel oranges, peeled and separated into sections
125 gr. dates, chopped
50 gr. blanched almonds, toasted and chopped

Separate the tender leaves of the lettuce and wash well. Drain, pat dry, shred and place in a salad bowl. Chill.

Mix together the lemon juice, orange juice, orange flower water, sugar, salt and « tsp of the cinnamon.

To serve pour most of the dressing over the lettuce and toss. Arrange the orange sections over the lettuce leaves and then top with the dates and almonds. Sprinkle over the remaining dressing and dust gently with cinnamon. Serve at once.

Fig Pastries
Klandt bi Karmouss

36 figs, minced
6 Tbsp. apricot preserves
75 gr. blanched almonds, chopped
ground cinnamon as required
14 sheets of phylo dough (strudel dough)
1 1/4 cups extra-fine sugar
1/2 cup butter, melted and cooled
3 Tbsp. dark honey

In a mixing bowl combine the figs with the apricot preserves, almonds and cinnamon to taste. Knead until the mixture is well blended. Separate the mixture into 28 separate balls.

Unroll 1 sheet of the phylo dough and brush sparingly with the melted butter. Cut the sheet lengthwise in half, fold each of these pieces in half and at the bottom of each half place one portion of the fig mixture.

Fold the sides of the dough lengthwise over the filling and then fold the bottom over and roll as for a jelly roll. Fasten the last inch (2 1/2 cm.) of pastry with a flour and water paste if necessary. (Each rolled pastry should be about 2 x 1 1/4" (5 x 3 cm.). Continue until all of the filling and dough are used.

Make a syrup by combining the sugar with 1 cup of water in a heavy saucepan. Bring to the boil and cook for 5 minutes. Remove from the flame, stir in the honey and a pinch of cinnamon. Return to the heat and simmer over a low flame.

Bake the pastries in a medium oven until puffed and golden on both sides (about 30 minutes), turning once. Transfer the baked pastries immediately to the simmering honey syrup and allow to stand in the syrup for about 3 minutes. With a slotted spoon remove the pastries to a flat dish to dry. Serve at room temperature or store in a dry container.

© Daniel Rogov