Because Succoth is such a relaxed holiday, (this year starting on the eve of 1 October) devoted largely to reflections on the meaning of freedom, and simultaneously celebrating the culmination of the fruit harvest in Israel, it is a week long period in which people can "take a break" from the heaviness of life. And, because many of the meals of Succoth are traditionally celebrated in the small frond-roofed booths that are erected on balconies, in gardens and on roof-tops, it is a time in which al fresco dining, that is to say, dining in the open air can be enjoyed comfortably. Not so much a time of picnics or for use of the mangel (barbecue) as it is one for quiet meals celebrated with the family, and with no rigorous dietary proscriptions, it is a good time to play around a bit in the kitchen, preparing dishes that can comfortably be served out-of-doors. Following are a two recipes for dishes I especially enjoy preparing (and eating) during the holiday. Both recipes come from the most traditional French kitchen and both are designed to serve 4.

Trout Colbert

4 trout (forel in Hebrew)
1/4 cup Colbert butter (see following recipe)
2 small bunches parsley
3 eggs, beaten lightly with 1 Tbsp. water
1 cup breadcrumbs, seasoned with salt, pepper and paprika to taste
deep oil for frying

Split the trout along their backs and remove the central bones. Place the eggs in a small bowl and the seasoned flower on a flat plate. Dip the trout into the eggs and then dip in the flower, coating well. Set aside.

Wash the parsley well, dry on paper toweling and pick off small sprigs. Place these in a wire basket and dip into deep hot oil for about 30 seconds. Drain on paper toweling.

Fry the trout in the hot oil until the fish are crisp and golden brown. Drain, transfer to a preheated serving plate and on each trout place 1 Tbsp. of the Colbert butter. Garnish each end of the plate with the fried parsley. (Serves 4)

Colbert Butter

This versatile butter mixture is ideal for use with fried and grilled fish and for those who do not maintain kashrut, with small cuts of beef or lamb. For purposes of kashrut, the butter should be made with vegetable stock.

1 cup vegetable, beef or veal stock
1 cup butter, at room temperature
1 1/2 Tbsp. parsley, chopped finely
2 tsp. tarragon, chopped finely
1 tsp. lemon juice
1/2 tsp. salt1/4 tsp. pepper

In a saucepan boil down the meat stock until it is reduced to a thick syrup. (There should be about 2 Tbsp. left in all). Remove from the flame and add all of the remaining ingredients, stirring with a wooden spoon until the mixture forms a completely smooth paste. If not to be used at once, the Colbert butter may be packed tightly into a container, covered with plastic wrap and refrigerated for 2 - 3 days.

To serve Colbert butter with fish, let the butter come to room temperature before spooning it over the fish. To serve with lamb chops, steaks or other small cuts of meat, place a generous tablespoon of the cold butter on the hot meat. As it melts it will make its own sauce.

Pears Catherine

4 1/2 cups sugar
1 tsp. vanilla extract (or more to taste)
8 small pears
4 cups raspberries or blackberries (may used tinned or frozen)2 Tbsp. kirsch or other cherry liqueur
3 Tbsp. almonds, chopped finely

Prepare a syrup by dissolving 4 cups of the sugar in 4 1/2 cups of water and bringing to a boil. Strain, add the vanilla and filter through several layers of muslin. Pour the syrup into a clean saucepan and in this poach the pears until they are soft, but taking care not to cook so long that they become mushy.

In a mixing bowl crush the berries (if using tinned berries be sure to drain and discard the liquids in the tin). Add the remaining sugar, mix well put through a sieve. Stir in the kirsch. To serve, spoon the berry puree over the pears and sprinkle with the almonds. (May be served with sweetened whipped cream in a separate bowl). (Serves 4).

© Daniel Rogov