If there is any religious holiday that can be thought of as relaxed, Succoth is that holiday. Coming as it does towards the onset of autumn (this year the eve of the holiday falls on Friday, 20 September) and devoted not so much to deep introspection or to painful memories but largely to the meaning of freedom, it is a non-pressured weeklong celebration in which many meals are taken in the small frond-roofed booths erected in gardens, on rooftops and on balconies. It is a time when dining in the open air can be enjoyed comfortably and from the culinary point of view, because there are no strict dietary proscriptions that accompany the holiday, playfulness and lightness in the kitchen are very much in order. Here are several dishes, all appropriate for light dinners, and any of which will make for delicious and "laid-back" dining.

Sicilian Gnocchi

30 gr. golden raisins
1/2 kilo ricotta cheese
4 egg yolks
25 gr. pine nuts, chopped
100 gr. freshly grated Parmesan cheese
1 1/2 Tbsp. parsley, chopped very finely
1/2 cup fresh basil leaves, chopped very finely
salt and pepper to taste
100 gr. flour
6 Tbsp. melted butter

Soak the raisins in a small bowl of water for about 30 minutes. Drain and pat dry.

Push the ricotta through a sieve into a bowl. Add the egg yolks, raisins, pine nuts, half the Parmesan cheese and the parsley and mix well. Add 1/4 cup of the flour and mix well. Using a teaspoon, form the mixture into gnocchi the size of quail eggs and roll them in the remaining flour.

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the gnocchi and cook until they rise to the surface. Remove with a slotted spoon. Toss with the remaining melted butter and sprinkle with the rest of the Parmesan cheese before serving. (Serves 4).

Lamb Meatballs in Brandy Sauce

This dish is especially popular among the Jews of Andalusia and is known in Spanish as Albondingas con Salsa Cognac.

3 kilos lamb, ground
6 eggs
3/4 cup parsley, chopped
16 - 20 cloves garlic, minced
salt to taste
6 Tbsp. coarsely ground pepper
3 cups bread crumbs
3/4 cup dry red wine
6 Tbsp. olive oil
3 medium onions, chopped finely
3/4 cup brandy or Cognac
3 cups beef stock
6 Tbsp. tomato sauce

In a mixing bowl combine the lamb, eggs, parsley, garlic, salt and pepper. In a separate bowl soak the bread crumbs in the wine and then add these to the meat mixture. By hand mix together thoroughly and then form meatballs about 3 cm in diameter.

In a large skillet heat the oil and in this brown the meatballs on all sides. Add the onion and continue to saute until the onion is translucent. Pour in the brandy, let heat for a few moments and flame carefully. Stir until the flames are extinguished, add the stock and tomato sauce and correct the seasoning with salt to taste. Cover and cook over a medium-low flame until the meatballs are done (about 40 minutes). Serve hot. Designed to serve 12 - 16, this is an ideal dish when company is expected. If cooking just for the family, leftovers can be stored, covered in the refrigerator and reheated the following day.

Spinach Crepes
An Italian Dish Known as Crepes Spinacci

3/4 cup milk
1 heaping cup flour
3 Tbsp. butter
1/2 kilo spinach, well cleaned and with thick stems discarded
1 onion, whole
salt and pepper to taste
pinch nutmeg
200 gr. Parmesan cheese, grated

Combine the milk and four and blend them thoroughly to make a smooth batter. In an 18 cm. crepe pan (or other similarly sized skillet) melt 1 Tbsp. of the butter. Turn the pan to make sure the bottom and sides are well coated and, when the butter is hot, spoon in enough batter to form a thin pancake. Cook the crepe on both sides and then set aside. Repeat the process until all of the batter is used, stacking the crepes one on top of the other. Add butter to the pan only if the batter begins to stick.

Rinse the spinach well under running water and drop into a large saucepan with an ample amount of boiling salted water. Bring again to a boil and cook for 5 minutes. Remove from the heat, rinse under cold water and drain. Chop the spinach finely.

In a separate saucepan boil the onion in water for 10 - 15 minutes. Remove the onion from the water and slice.

In a skillet melt the remaining butter and in this saute the onion slices until translucent. Add the spinach and continue to saute for 5 minutes longer. Remove from the flame, season with salt, pepper and nutmeg and mix well. On each crepe place 2 Tbsp. of the mixture and sprinkle over with grated cheese. Roll the crepes and place them on a well greased baking dish. Over the top sprinkle the remaining cheese and place in a hot oven until the cheese has melted and is golden brown. Serve hot. (Serves 6).

© Daniel Rogov