Even though sumac has been a well known seasoning agent since the days of the Romans, not many people outside of the Mediterranean Basin have ever heard of it. A shrub in the Genus Rhus and family Anacardicaea, sumac is part of the group we generally think of as belonging to the cashew family. The plant has multi-pointed leaves and large shaped clusters of hairy red fruits, and the wild bushes that yield these berries grow wild in all of the Mediterranean, especially in the Middle East (Israel, Jordan, Syria and Iran) as well as in Sicily and other parts of southern Italy.

Now before we get to far into this, let us make it clear that edible sumac is not to be confused with Rhus Glabra which many people know by its common name "poison sumac", which causes severe itching and skin reactions when touched. Those who have lived in North America are probably familiar with this annoying plant which is a cousin of Rhus toxicodendron (poison ivy).

In preparing edible sumac, the hairy coating is first removed from the berries, which are then ground to powder-like consistency and used by many in the same way that lemon juice and vinegar are used in the West. The spice is probably at its most popular when making mixtures of za'atar, to season kebabs, sprinkled on fish or salads, or added to yoghurt with other fresh herbs. Some medical sources indicate that the berries and their powder have diuretic properties and the powder is sometime used to relieve digestion problems and in reducing fever. The leaves of the plant are not edible but are used in tanning and dying as well as to make Japan wax (a compound used as polish in the industrial commercial processing of leather).

In English as in Hebrew the spice is referred to as sumac (sometimes spelled as sumach, sumak or summak); in Arabic it is called either sumac or sammak; the French name is sumac; Germans call it Sumach; in Italian it is sommacco; and in Spanish sumaque. By any spelling, a spice well worth experimenting with, and the very best samples to be found are in the spice markets of Akko, Jerusalem and the Levinsky Market in Tel Aviv.

Ful Moudammas

This remarkably popular Egyptian dish is just as likely to be found on the table of the president of the country as in thousands of fast-food street-side stands.

1 cup of dry fava beans (soaked overnight in water)
1/4 cup olive oil
1 tsp. salt
freshly ground pepper to taste
3 cloves garlic, crushed
1/4 cup lemon juice
1/2 tsp. cumin
1/2 tsp. sumac
1 Tbsp. parsley, chopped

After the beans have soaked rinse them well and then cook in a covered saucepan with just enough water to cover until they are soft (about 1 - 1 1/2 hour, depending on the beans you have found).
Drain the water, sprinkle over with salt and black pepper to taste. Pour over half the oil, add the garlic, lemon juice, parsley and sumac. Mix well, crushing some of the beans with the back of a fork.

To serve, spread on individual serving plates, drizzle over the remaining oil and garnish with the parsley. Ideal served with warm pita bread. (Serves 4 as part of a meze)

Fava Beans And Tomatoes
The Lebanese Version

2 onions, chopped
1/4 cup olive oil
1/3 cup fresh corainder leaves
2 cups fresh fava beans
3 medium tomatoes, peeled and chopped finely
3 cloves garlic, crushed
1/4 tsp. cayenne pepper (or hot pepper flakes)
1/2 tsp. each salt and sumac
pinch or two of black pepper

In a large heavy skillet heat 2 Tbsp. of the olive oil and in this saute the onions until golden brown.
Stir in the coriander leaves and fava beans, pour over the remaining oil and continue to saute, stirring regularly for 5 minutes. Add the tomatoes and let cook, uncovered, on a medium heat until the mixture is reduced somewhat. Add the remaining ingredients, cover and let cook at a bare simmer for 30 minutes longer. Serve hot or cold. (Serves 4 as part of a meze)

Onion, Tomato and Sumac Salad
A recipe by Chef Joseph Fortunato of Layla Resturant in New York

5 large, ripe tomatoes, sliced 1/2 cm. thick
1 large red onions, sliced thinly
3 cucumbers, seeded and sliced about 1/2 cm. thick
hot red pepper flakes to taste
1/4 cup olive oil
lemon-based vinaigrette sauce, ideally home made, to taste
1/4 tsp. each salt, sumac and ground white pepper
115 gr. feta cheese, crumbled
80 gr. pine nuts, dry roasted

In a bowl combine the tomatoes, onions, cucumbers, red pepper flakes and olive oil. Toss gently and refrigerate until ready to serve.

To serve the dish, drain the excess oil from the salad mixture and transfer to an attractive bowl. Pour over a generous amount of the vinaigrette, season with the salt, sumac and white pepper and toss gently but well. Divide the salad onto 4 - 6 small dishes, sprinkle each over with the crumbled feta cheese and with the toasted pine nuts. (Ideal when served with toasted slices of pita bread that have been sprinkled over with olive oil and za'atar).

© Daniel Rogov