From the coastal plains to the hills of the Galilee, orange groves are so much a part of the Israeli landscape that most people take it for granted that oranges have always been an integral part of the local culinary lifestyle. So firmly associated with Israel is this fruit that even the Biblical Jonah is associated with oranges, for, it is said that when he was thrown up from the belly of the whale that he was set ashore in Jaffa, there he found himself in an area pleasantly cooled by the shade of luxurious groves of dates and oranges.

It is true that oranges have grown in this region for over four thousand years but the fruits that Jonah and others of our forbears knew were bitter oranges, quite different than those so highly prized today. Unlike bitter oranges which grow on trees that sometimes reach twelve meters in height, sweet oranges grow on compact, elegant trees, with pleasantly scented blossoms. And, although bitter oranges have grown wild in Israel since pre-historical times, the trees that bear sweet oranges originated in the region known as Cochin China. No one knows precisely when the sweet orange was introduced into the Middle East, but the first orange tree was brought to the Western World in the early 16th century, when Portugese explorer Vasco da Gama brought a root of one of these trees from China to Portugal. It is from that single tree, which is still preserved in the courtyard of the Lisbon home of the Count of Saint-Laurent that all of the oranges of Portugal, Spain, France and Israel have come.

Roast Veal with Orange Sauce

1 breast or shoulder of veal, tied for roasting
3 cloves garlic, cut in thin slivers
1 clove garlic, halved
about 1 tsp. dried ginger
olive oil as required
flour as required
salt and pepper to taste
1/4 cup beer
the rind of 1/2 small lemon, grated
1/2 tsp. each dried oregano and thyme
3 Tbsp. Cointreau or other orange liqueur

With a sharp knife, cut small slits in the veal and into each slit place 1 sliver of garlic. Rub the meat with the garlic halves and then rub again with the dried ginger and then brush gently with the olive oil. Let stand at room temperature for about 1/2 hour.

Place the meat in a greased roasting pan and place in an oven that has been preheated to very hot. Reduce the oven temperature to 150 degrees Celsius and bake until the meat is done (25 - 30 minutes for medium rare).

Remove the meat from the pan and set it aside to keep warm. Pour all but about 3 Tbsp. of the pan drippings through a muslin cloth into a separate bowl and set aside for further use. Leave the remaining 3 Tbsp. of pan drippings in the pan, place over a very low flame, add the beer and cook, scraping the bottom and sides of the pan for 1 - 2 minutes. Add 1 - 2 Tbsp. of flour, beating with a wire whisk until the mixture is smooth and slightly thickened.

Continue to cook over a low flame, stirring constantly while adding the reserved pan drippings. Season with the grated lemon rind, oregano, thyme and salt and pepper and continue to cook for 3 - 4 minutes longer. Add the Cointreau, heat through but do not boil and then remove from the flame. Slice the veal, spoon some of the sauce over and serve the remaining sauce separately. (Serves 4 - 6).

Orange Sauce

This sauce is equally appropriate for use with any kind of fowl or with roast beef, veal or game.

1 cup beef, veal or game stock
1 tsp. cornstarch
2 Tbsp. orange rind, cut into julienne strips
2 Tbsp. sugar
2 Tbsp. vinegar
1/2 cup orange juice
2 Tbsp. Curacao or other orange liqueur
1 tsp. lemon juice
orange slices for garnish

Using the pan in which the bird or meat was roasted, pour off the fat and deglaze the pan with the stock.

Mix together in a small bowl the cornstarch and half a cup of the stock. Add this to the stock in the pan, stirring until it thickens.

Pour boiling water over the orange rind and let the rind sit in the water for 2 - 3 minutes before draining.

In a separate pan heat together the sugar and vinegar, stirring, until light brown. Into this pour the sauce from the roasting pan and cook on a very low flame, stirring continuously for about 3 - 4 minutes. Add the remaining ingredients, mix well and then correct the seasoning with salt and pepper to taste. Immediately pour about half the sauce over the bird and garnish the bird with the orange sections. Serve the remaining sauce separately.

© Daniel Rogov