The cookery of Syria, shares many commonalities with the cuisine of many Middle-Eastern nations. The leading vegetable in Syrian cuisine is eggplant; spices and herbs are used generously; members of the onion family, including garlic, are popular; and the principal cooking oil is olive oil. Yoghurt is specially popular, sweets are enjoyed enormously and fresh fruits are highly valued.

Because Syria is a Moslem nation, the Jews who lived there for many years had relatively little trouble in maintaining kashrut. Pork, forbidden to Moslems as well as to Jews, is practically impossible to find and seafood, especially the crustaceans, are rarely available. Alcohol, although it is available, has never attained great social acceptance. When an alcoholic beverage is drunk it is usually the anise-flavoured Arak.

For several centuries, the Jews of Damascus played a major role in the mercantile system of the nation. Many of these families enjoyed a highly developed cuisine and set such sumptuous tables that one l9th century visitor reported their cookery "to be second only to that of France". That may have been a bit of an exaggeration, but the following dinner, designed for 4, will serve to demonstrate the honesty, simplicity and subtlety of this cuisine.

The Appetizers

Anchovy Stuffed Olives

500 gr. large black olives
l25 gr. anchovy fillets
3 Tbsp. olive oil
1 Tbsp. white vinegar
1/2 tsp. each tarragon and black pepper

Pit the olives and fill each with an anchovy filet. Place the olives in a deep serving dish. Combine the oil, vinegar, tarragon and pepper, mixing well. Sprinkle the mixture over the stuffed olives. Cover and refrigerate at least 4 - 6 hours. Serve well chilled.


Yoghurt Cheese
Labani

4 cups natural yoghurt
1 tsp. salt
olive oil and pita bread for serving

Combine the yoghurt and salt. Pour the mixture into a muslin sack, tie and suspend over a large bowl so that the liquids may drip out. Let drain for 24 hours. Discard the liquids. Unwrap the cheese, cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate until ready to use.

To serve, unwrap the cheese, spread on a plate and drip olive oil in a depression in the center. Serve with black olives and, if desired za'atar (hyssop or wild oregano) for seasoning. Serve with warmed pita bread.

The Soup

Garlic Soup

1 liter beef or chicken stock or, for kashrut, vegetable stock
4 slices stale French-style bread
3 Tbsp. olive oil
6 - 8 cloves garlic, unpeeled
2 egg yolks
2 egg whites, lightly beaten
salt and pepper to taste
parsley, chopped, for garnish

Brush the bread slices with the egg whites and toast in the oven until golden brown.

Drop the garlic cloves into boiling water and let boil for12 - 15 minutes. Drain the garlic, rinse under cold running water and peel. Mash the garlic and then beat together with the egg yolk until the mixture is thick.

In a saucepan or small kettle bring the stock to the boil. Remove from the flame and stir in the garlic mixture. Cook, stirring regularly, until thickened (about 5 minutes) taking care not to let the soup boil. Correct the seasoning with salt and pepper to taste. Sprinkle the soup with the parsley and serve with the bread slices.

The Main Course and Salad

Grey Mullet in Wine and Paprika

2 medium sized grey mullet or other firm-fleshed salt-water fish, about 675 gr each
1/2 cup each dry red and white wine
2 medium onions, sliced
1/4 cup butter
the juice of 2 lemons
1/2 tsp. each hot and sweet paprika
several sprigs of fresh tarragon, chopped finely or 1/2 tsp. dried tarragon
salt and pepper to taste
parsley sprigs, sliced onion and lemon wedges for garnish

Clean the fish and place them in a shallow baking dish. Pour over the white wine and 1/4 cup water and let stand for 5 - 6 minutes on each side.

In a small skillet melt 2 Tbsp. of the butter and in this saute the onion and hot paprika together until the onions are translucent.

Transfer the fish to a well greased baking dish and dot with the remaining butter. Sprinkle with salt, pepper, tarragon and lemon juice. Pour over the red wine and add the sauteed onions. Bake in a medium oven for 30 minutes.

Immediately on removing from the oven sprinkle the fish with the paprika. Place under a hot grill for several minutes, just until the skin begins to blacken. Serve hot garnished with parsley, lemon quarters and sliced onion.

Mixed Cheese Salad

125 gr each cottage cheese and crumbled feta or Bulgarian cheese
1/4 cup onion, grated and drained
1/4 cup each lemon juice and olive oil
1/2 medium cucumber, peeled
1/4 green pepper, chopped finely
salt and pepper to taste
sprigs of fresh mint for garnish

Halve the cucumber lengthwise, score with the tines of a fork, sprinkle with salt and let stand 1/2 hour.

In a mixing bowl combine the cheeses with the onion, green pepper, lemon juice and olive oil. Mix thoroughly and season generously with pepper and a moderate amount of salt.

Drain the cucumber and cut into small cubes. Mix into the cheese mixture. Transfer to a shallow serving bowl. Garnish with mint sprigs and let stand in a cool place for 1/2 hour before serving.

The Dessert

Candied Figs
Moratub Teen

500 gr. dried figs, chopped coarsely
125 gr. walnuts, chopped
1 1/4 cup sugar
1/2 tsp. ground nutmeg
1/4 tsp. each ground cinnamon and ground ginger
juice of 1 large lemon

Put the figs and lemon juice in a heavy saucepan and barely cover with water. Let stand 2 hours and then, on a low flame, heat gently. Stir occasionally until the figs are tender. Add the sugar, cinnamon and ginger and continue to cook on a low flame until the figs are glazed and the mixture has thickened to the consistency of jam. Remove from the heat and stir in the walnuts. Let cool before refrigerating. Serve cold with demi-tasse spoons.

© Daniel Rogov