Coordinating the Hebrew and the Gregorian calendars, the 8th of February marks Tu Bi Shvat, literally the fifteenth day of the Hebrew month of Shvat. More than this, however, Tu Bi Shvat is the date that celebrates what is probably the least known of all Jewish holidays outside of Israel. According to tradition, this is the day that marks the onset of spring not only within Israel but throughout the Middle-East.

Now, whether one lives in or outside of Israel, accepting the middle of February as the onset of spring is fairly difficult, for from Haifa to Tel Aviv and from Jerusalem to Beersheva, most Israelis are still wearing heavy sweaters and anticipating the next cold winter rain. The tradition of five hundred years may tell us that it is spring but reality sometimes dictates otherwise. Despite this, this is a fun holiday, and to some extent actually does involve a change of seasons, for despite the cold and the rain, it is impossible to ignore the fact that throughout Israel the trees are starting to bloom, wild flowers will be found in abundance wherever one looks, and that a new season is really beginning. Sometimes called "The New Year of the Trees", many will take advantage of the holiday to go to the national parks and forests, there to plant young trees or simply to stroll, even in the sometimes inclement weather. Wherever one goes, even if one does nothing more than to celebrate the holiday in a neighborhood cafe, the day will be marked by an easygoing, pleasant atmosphere.

Wherever one celebrates, the inescapable culinary treat of the day will be dried fruits. There is logic to that as well. Because fresh fruits were rarely available to Jews living in Europe and North Africa during the winter months, it became and remains traditional to serve dishes based on dried fruits, of which raisins, dates, carobs, prunes, nuts, figs and apricots are among the favorites. Each of the following recipes comes from a Jewish community abroad and each is especially appropriate for the holiday. Unless otherwise noted, the recipes are designed to serve 4 -6.

Lamb and Prune Stew - Morocco

2 Tbsp. butter
1 1/4 kilos lamb shoulder, trimmed of excess fat and
cut into 1 1/2 cm. cubes
salt as required
1/4 tsp. turmeric
1/4 tsp. ground ginger
1/2 tsp. coarsely ground black pepper
1/4 tsp. garlic, chopped finely
1 medium onion, chopped finely
6 sprigs fresh coriander
hot paprika to taste
1/4 kilo prunes, pitted
1/4 tsp. ground cinnamon

In a large flameproof casserole melt the butter and in this brown the meat on all sides. Add the turmeric, ginger, black pepper, garlic and salt to taste. Toss well and cook over a low flame for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add the onion, coriander and 1/2 liter of water. Bring to the boil and simmer covered until the meat is tender (about 1 1/2 hours). Add water if the casserole dries out.

Spread the meat so that it forms one layer in an ovenproof serving dish. Place the prunes in between the meat. Remove the coriander from the cooking liquids and correct the seasoning of the liquids, adding hot paprika or Tabasco to taste. Pour the sauce over the meat, sprinkle with the ground cinnamon and place the serving dish on the highest shelf of the oven. Bake uncovered in an oven that has been heated to 230 degrees Celsius until the prunes develop a light crust (about 15 minutes). Serve hot.

Tongue in Raisin Sauce - France

1 fresh beef tongue
2 large onions, halved
4 celery ribs, with leaves
2 medium carrots, quartered
6 sprigs parsley
8 peppercorns
1/2 cup blanched almonds
3 Tbsp. flour
1 cup seedless raisins
1/4 cup crushed ginger snaps
1 tsp. lemon rind, grated
salt and pepper to taste

Place the tongue in a large kettle and add the onions, carrots, celery, parsley and peppercorns. Barely cover these with boiling water and simmer, uncovered, until the tongue is tender (about 3 hours). Remove the tongue and run under cold water. Remove the grease from the liquids and reserve the stock. Peel the tongue and trim off the fat, reserving 6 Tbsp. of the fat.

Split the almonds and in a saucepan with 2 cups of water simmer these for 20 minutes. Add the raisins and simmer for 1/2 hour longer. Strain the sauce, reserving the liquids and solids separately.

In a skillet melt the tongue fat which has been reserved and to this slowly add the flour, stirring until well blended. Gradually add in the raisins and almonds, the almond liquid and enough of the tongue stock to make 3 1/2 cups in all. To this add the crushed ginger snaps and the lemon rind. Correct the seasoning with salt and pepper to taste. Pour part of the sauce over the tongue and serve the remainder in a gravy boat.

Fruited Beef - Iran

1/4 kilo each dried prunes, apples and apricots
3 Tbsp. olive oil
1 kilo stewing beef, cut in 2 1/2 cm. cubes
3 Tbsp. tomato puree
1 Tbsp. each sugar and cinnamon
1 tsp. pepper
1/2 tsp. salt
cooked white rice, for serving

Soak the dried fruits in water for 2 hours. Drain well.

In a heavy skillet heat the oil and in this saute the meat until browned on all sides. Add the prunes and cook on a low flame, uncovered, for 20 minutes. Add the apples, apricots, tomato puree, sugar, cinnamon, pepper and salt, stir well and cook uncovered another 10 minutes. Serve hot on the rice. On each portion distribute the fruits and ladle over an appropriate amount of sauce.

Chicken with Figs - Spain

1/2 cup cider vinegar
3/4 cup sugar
1 stick cinnamon
1 slice lemon
1/2 kilo fresh figs
1/2 cup white wine
the peel of 1/2 lemon
2 chickens, about 2 1/2 kilos, cut in convenient serving pieces
6 thin slices fatty smoked goose breast
1 Tbsp. olive oil
1/4 cup beef stock
salt and pepper to taste

In a saucepan combine the vinegar, sugar, cinnamon and lemon slice with 3/4 cup of water. Bring to the boil, reduce the flame and simmer for 5 minutes. Add the figs, return to the boil, again reduce the flame and let simmer 10 minutes longer. Cover and let stand 2 - 3 hours. Drain and discard the lemon and cinnamon.

Transfer the figs to a bowl and pour over the wine and lemon peel.

Sprinkle the chicken pieces generously with salt and pepper. In a shallow flameproof casserole heat the goose breast slices over a low flame until they become crisp. Remove the slices, drain on paper toweling and crumble them.

To the casserole add the olive oil, heat through and in the hot liquids saute the chicken until golden on all sides. Increase to a medium-high flame and, stirring constantly, add the wine in which the figs were soaking. Boil until the liquids are reduced to a syrup-like inconsistency. Transfer the casserole dish to an oven that has been preheated to 180 degrees Celsius (360 Fahrenheit) and cook, uncovered, for 20 minutes, adding water only if the casserole becomes overly dry.

Return the casserole to the top of the stove, add the beef stock, crumbled goose breast and figs, cover and cook 10 minutes longer. Discard the lemon peel and serve hot.

© Daniel Rogov