Jerusalem may or may not be at the physical center of the universe, but for at least 2500 years the city has had a powerful attraction for an inordinate collection of anti-heroes. It might not be unfair to say that the city has, at one time or another, on a voluntary basis or not, hosted some of history's most revolting characters. While most of these villains may have demonstrated not a single redeeming moral virtue, at least some of them held a valid claim to having good taste, at least in culinary affairs.

It would be difficult, for example, to forgive Nebuchadrezzar, that somewhat schizophrenic king of Babylon who, in 586 BCE, destroyed the Holy Temple, took many of the people into captivity and forced the rest into exile. It is equally difficult, especially to a lover of gastronomy, to dismiss this particular tyrant's elevated tastes in food. Unlike most of his royal compatriots, most of whom were satisfied to gnaw on greasy roast meats in overly heavy sauces, Nebuchadrezzar was a vegetarian and maintained a staff of chefs who developed many refined dishes for his table.

It is known that the king had a particular passion for berries, and it is probable that the following recipe originated at about the time of his reign.

Honeyed Cheese with Berries

350 gr. cream cheese
6 Tbsp. dry white wine
5 Tbsp. .honey
1 kilo strawberries, quartered or whole blueberries or raspberries
2 Tbsp. sugar

Let the cheese come to room temperature and then mash with a fork, softening thoroughly. Place the cheese in a mixing bowl and gradually add and beat in the wine. When the wine is fully blended, add and beat in the honey. Add the berries and gently stir them into the mixture. Chill for about 1/2 hour. Serve in well chilled glasses or bowls that have had their rims dipped in the sugar. (Serves 6).

A little over four hundred years later, Antiochus IV, the King of Syria added his name to the list of not-specially welcome visitors to the city. Antiochus did his best to follow in the footsteps of his Babylonian predecessor when, in 169 BCE he stormed and plundered the city and outlawed Judaism. Historians report that Antiochus was not so much crazy as he was simply hungry for power.

Antiochus was hungry in other ways as well. Described as a "huge bull of a man" he had a nearly insatiable appetite. And when the royal presence was hungry, that usually called for dining orgies where the bulk of food he consumed was a major attraction. Although no recipes survive from Antiochus' household, it is known that he specially enjoyed dining on lamb. The following recipe, which will serve from 20 - 40 might make an appropriate substitute for kebabs the next time one decides to have an outdoor barbecue. (If not, at least it should make for interesting reading).

Roast Lamb on the Spit

1 whole lamb, dressed, from 14 - 20 kilos
6 lemons
2 cups olive oil
6 cloves garlic, minced
7 sprigs each oregano, thyme and rosemary
salt and pepper as required

With a damp cloth wipe the lamb inside and out. Rub the cavity well with a cut lemon and then rub with salt and pepper. Into the cavity place the 6 sprigs of each of the herbs and close with skewers. Rub the outer surface with lemon, salt and pepper and brush with olive oil.

To place the lamb on the spit, place the carcass on the stomach and starting from the back legs, push the spit through the center, towards and through the neck. Pull the forelegs forward and tie them to the spit with wire. Pull the back legs along the spit, cross them above it and secure with wire.

In a large jar combine the juice of 4 of the lemons with the olive oil, garlic and 1 tsp. each of salt and pepper. To this add the remaining sprigs of oregano, thyme and parsley. Into this mixture drop a cheesecloth and let it soak.

Over a well banked charcoal fire put the spitted lamb in position. Turn the lamb over the fire slowly, basting occasionally with the cloth that has been soaked in the oil mixture As cooking progresses, the lamb may be moved closer to the fire. Roast until the meat is succulent throughout (about 6 hours), adding more coals to the fire as necessary and basting periodically.

As to the not-always-noblest of the Romans who came to call, neither Pontius Pilate, who executed Jesus in about 28 CE nor Titus, who conquered the city in 70 CE and burned the temple would be counted among the most favorite of the city's occupants. Both did, however, share a special fondness for the tempting apple fritters that Lucullus had made popular in Rome.

Apple Fritters

2 1/4 cups flour
12 eggs, lightly beaten
1/2 tsp. saffron
1/4 tsp. black pepper
9 medium apples, peeled, cored and cut in small dice
confectioners' sugar as required
oil for deep frying

Sift the flour and then combine with the beaten eggs to make a smooth batter. Add the pepper and saffron and mix in well. Add the apples to the batter, cover and let stand 1 - 2 hours in a cool spot.

Heat the oil to 375 degrees Fahrenheit (l90 C) and into this carefully drop the batter in large spoonfuls. The fritters will be done when they rise to the surface and are a golden brown in color (3 - 4 minutes cooking in all). Take care not to fry more than 5 - 6 fritters at a time. (Serves 6).

Some years later, in about 1008 CE, Caliph Hakim the Mad of the Fatamid sect conquered the city. Hakim may have been mad but at least he was a bit more democratic than his predecessors for he did not single out the Jews for special treatment. Perhaps in some perverse sense of fairness, Hakim persecuted Jews and Christians alike, sacked most of the city and destroyed many of the shrines of both faiths.

Whatever one thinks of this mad Caliph or his proclivity for looting, raping and pillaging, it is difficult to fault his taste in food. Hakim's favourite dish is one that that has survived the years with far greater glory than the man himself.

Puree of Smoked Salmon

500 gr. smoked salmon, very thinly sliced
3 medium tomatoes, peeled, seeded and diced
12 spring onions, with greens, minced finely
1 tsp. coarse salt
lettuce leaves for serving

Soak the salmon in cold water for about 3 hours. Drain well and dry on clean toweling. Cut the salmon into julienne strips. In a mixing bowl combine the salmon and tomatoes and, using a fork, mash the mixture into a paste-like consistency. In a smaller bowl crush the spring onions together with the salt and then add to the salmon mixture. Stir in 4 Tbsp. of ice water and chill thoroughly. Serve as an appetizer, well chilled on lettuce leaves. (Serves 8).

© Daniel Rogov