When one reflects on the Jewish community of Venice, it is to the glorious intellectual history of the people and the exquisitely decorated synagogues of the ancient ghetto of the city that one's mind wanders. With the exception of those who know Venice intimately, few associate Jewish tradition with the city's fabulous Quadri restaurant.

Located in Venice's exquisite Piazza San Marco, Quadri is as expensive as it is magnificent. Revered internationally for its exquisite food, its handsome fin de siecle decor and its superb service, the restaurant has been frequented by a host of well-known authors, poets, painters and composers. Because it has been owned by the same Catholic family since it first opened in 1859, it surprises many to realize that ever since it opened the restaurant has offered a large selection of dishes that would be acceptable to the many members of the Jewish community of Venice who have been regular clients here.

At no time was Quadri more closely associated with the Jewish families of the city than in 1897, when the family of Professor Giuliano Levi decided to celebrate the Passover Seder at the restaurant. In addition to the normal joy of the holiday, the Levi family was also celebrating the 500th anniversary of their arrival in the city. Composed of bankers, intellectuals and newspaper publishers, the Levi family was one of Italy's wealthiest and most respected families. The idea of reserving the entire restaurant for this special event did not daunt them at all.

The arrangements were not nearly as simple as one might think. Even though most of the members of the Levi family belonged to the relatively new Reform Movement, they could not dream of a Passover Seder that was not entirely kosher. This meant that the restaurant had to close three days before the holiday. Working under the supervision of the chief rabbi of Venice and two rabbis who came especially from Milan, all signs of non-kosher food were removed; the stoves, sinks, countertops and storerooms were all completely cleaned; and new dishes, silverware, napkins and glasses were purchased. Several hours before the first diners arrived, a mezuzzah was ceremoniously attached to the entrance door of the restaurant.

All in all, one hundred and sixty family members and friends attended the dinner. Although many of them lived in Venice others came from as far away as Milan, Rome, London, Paris and New York. The meal took place more than a century ago. Even though two World Wars have intervened, the mezuzzah still remains in place at the entrance to the restaurant. A copy of the menu for the celebratory holiday meal is on permanent display at Venice's Jewish History Museum. Another copy is kept at Quadri and will be shown on request. The dishes served at the Levi's celebratory meal were are as appropriate for Passover today as they were then and unless otherwise noted, each of the following recipes is designed to serve 4 - 6.

Melon and Wine

2 large cantaloupe or honeydew melons
1 cup Marsala wine

Cut a 2 1/2 cm. wedge-shaped slice from the tops of the melons and into each pour 1/2 cup of the wine. Replace the slices and wrap the melons tightly with plastic wrap. Refrigerate for 3 - 4 hours, turning occasionally

Just before serving, remove the rind and seeds and cut the melons into cubes. Serve well chilled.

Mushrooms on Grape Leaves

1/2 kilo wild mushrooms or champignons
1/2 cup olive oil
1/4 kilo grape leaves, washed and dried on towelling
2 - 3 cloves garlic, chopped
1/2 cup coarse matzo meal crumbs
salt and pepper to taste

Clean the mushrooms, remove the stems and set aside. Sprinkle the mushroom caps with salt and let stand for 20 minutes. Drain whatever water has accumulated in the caps and place in an oven that has been heated to 150 degrees Celsius (300 Fahrenheit) for 2 - 3 minutes to dry.

Lightly coat the bottom of a shallow flameproof and ovenproof casserole dish with olive oil and on this place the vine leaves. Over the leaves pour all but 1 Tbsp. of the remaining olive oil and heat over a low flame until the oil is hot but not boiling. Add the mushrooms, hollow side up, cover and place in an oven that has been heated to 180 degrees Celsius (350 Fahrenheit) for 30 minutes.

While the mushroom caps are in the oven chop the stems coarsely. In a heavy skillet heat the remaining olive oil and in this saute together the garlic and chopped stems. When all of the oil has been absorbed add the matzo meal crumbs and salt and pepper to taste. Mix together well. After the caps have cooked for 30 minutes, stuff them with this filling and cook, uncovered, for another 10 minutes. Serve very hot in the dish in which prepared.

Marinated Cornish Game Hens

1/2 cup olive oil
12 Cornish game hens or quail or 6 mini-chickens, trussed
2 medium onions, chopped coarsely
16 cloves garlic
2 Tbsp. green parts of spring onions, chopped finely
4 carrots, sliced thinly
6 bay leaves
3 sprigs parsley salt to taste
2 tsp. thyme
20 whole peppercorns
1/2 celery stalk, with leaves pinch of saffron (optional)
3/4 cup red wine vinegar
3/4 cup chicken stock
3 1/2 cups dry white wine
1 lemon, sliced
2 Tbsp. parsley, chopped
watercress for garnish

In a large shallow flameproof casserole heat the oil and in this saute the birds slowly until well browned on all sides. Transfer the birds to a preheated platter.

In the same casserole saute together the onion, garlic, spring onions and carrots just until the onions are translucent. Add the bay leaves, parsley sprigs, salt, thyme, peppercorns, celery and saffron and stir together well. Stir in the vinegar, stock and wine, return the birds to the casserole, cover and simmer 45 minutes.

Transfer the birds to a separate flameproof shallow casserole dish. Reduce the cooking liquids in the large casserole dish by boiling rapidly for 5 minutes and then pour the liquid over the birds. Cover, let come to room temperature, and refrigerate for 3 - 4 days before serving, turning the birds occasionally during the marinating period. (The dish may remain in the refrigerator for up to 7 days before serving).

To serve remove from the refrigerator, let come to room temperature and garnish with lemon slices, chopped parsley and watercress.

Baked Shoulder of Veal

1 1/2 Tbsp. each olive oil and chicken fat
1 1/2 kilos veal shoulder
2 carrots, sliced
1 large onion, sliced
10 - 12 sprigs celery, diced
1 cup white wine
1 cup chicken stock
4 bay leaves
salt and pepper to taste

In a heavy skillet heat the olive oil and margarine and in this fry the veal until browned all over.

In a baking dish place the carrots, onions and celery and over these lay the veal. Cover with aluminum foil and bake in an oven that has been preheated to 180 degrees Celsius (350 Fahrenheit) for 1 - 1 1/2 hours. After the first 1/2 hour uncover and baste with some of the wine. Cover again and continue to baste periodically until half a cup of the wine has been used. Test the meat to see if it is cooked and when done remove and keep warm.

Transfer the gravy to the skillet in which the veal was browned, pour in the remainder of the wine and cook until the wine is near- ly evaporated. Add the stock, bay leaves and salt and pepper and cook over a low flame for about 1/2 hour, adding stock if necessary. Correct the seasoning, remove from the heat and strain. To serve, slice the shoulder and pour over the gravy.

Fried Peppers

12 red or green sweet peppers
2 eggs, well beaten
salt and pepper to taste
olive oil for frying

Wash, core and cut the peppers into eighths. Season the beaten eggs with salt and pepper and into this dip the peppers and then fry in at least 1 cm. of oil until golden brown.

Broccoli in White Wine

3 - 4 bunches broccoli
2 Tbsp. olive oil
3 cloves garlic, chopped
1 1/2 cups dry white wine
salt and pepper to taste

Wash the broccoli well and cut off the tough stalks. Place upright in the bottom part of a double boiler in rapidly boiling salted water. Keep the flowers uppermost for 10 minutes and then invert the top part of the double boiler over the flowers and steam for 3 - 4 minutes.

In a skillet heat the olive oil and in this saute the garlic until browned. When the broccoli is nearly tender transfer it to this skillet and fry for about 5 minutes. Add the wine and simmer 5 minutes longer. Correct the seasoning with salt and pepper to taste and serve hot in the oil and wine sauce.

Onions Agrodolce

3 Tbsp. olive oil
1 kilo whole pearl onions (small, very young onions)
1/2 cup each port wine and vinegar
1/4 cup seedless raisins
2 Tbsp. brown sugar
1/2 tsp. salt
hot paprika to taste

In a heavy skillet heat the olive oil and in this saute the whole onions until they begin to brown. Add the remaining ingredients, cover and simmer over a low flame until the onions are quite soft and the sauce has attained the consistency of thick syrup. Serve hot.

Zabaglione

8 eggs, separated
1 cup extra-fine sugar
1/2 cup Marsala or Madeira wine

Mix together the egg yolks and sugar and beat until very light. Place this mixture in the top of a double boiler over but not in boiling water. Take care that the bottom of the pot with the ingredients does not come in contact with the water. With a wire whisk beat until the custard is foamy and then add, gradually, while continuing to beat, the wine. Continue to beat until the custard has doubled in volume and begins to thicken. Remove from the heat.

Beat the egg whites until stiff and fold these into the custard. Serve in sherbet or wine glasses while still warm.

© Daniel Rogov