Established a decade ago and located not far from the city of Sefad (Tsfat), with vineyards 800 meters high, Meron was Israel's first boutique winery. Happily, it has remained one of the most vibrant and consistent, its wines varying in quality from the very good to the excellent, and with a characteristic spicy but fruity, often tea and herbal style that calls to mind the wines of the Medoc region of Bordeaux. During a recent visit to the winery (which has just taken on a new partner and is about to expand its production to about 60,000 bottles annually), I had a chance to taste the Cabernet Sauvignons of 1998, 1997 and 1996 as well as the 1999 Chardonnay. On my return to Tel Aviv, I raided my own cellar and continued with tastings of the Cabernets of 1995, 1994 and 1993 as well as of the Chardonnays of 1995 and 1994. Following are my tasting notes.

Meron, Cabernet Sauvignon, 1998 (Barrel Tasting): Still in its infancy and with another year of aging in small oak casks before it is ready for bottling but already promising to be a very pleasant wine. Medium bodied, with smooth tannins and currant flavors that already hint of herbs, tea and tobacco, this will be a wine for drinking between 2002 - 2005. Tentative Score 87. (Tasted 18 July 2000)

Meron, Cabernet Sauvignon, 1997 (Barrel Tasting): After two and a half years in small French oak casks, this wine is probably being bottled as these notes are made. With a youthful purple color, and still loaded with fruits (but don't ignore the underlying oak and spices), this concentrated full bodied wine promises to be an absolute winner. As the wine develops it promises to become smooth, ripe and polished and offer flavors ranging from currant and cherries to herbs and spices. This is destined to be a complex wine with just enough tannins and cedar overtones to make it ideal for aging for 5 - 8 years. Tentative Score 90. (Tasted 18 July 2000)

Meron, Cabernet Sauvignon, 1996: A wine that is developing marvelously in the bottle. Lots of black currants, black cherries and nice overlays of spices (look especially for allspice and pepper), the wine is smoothing out nicely, its tannins becoming softer and revealing increasingly smooth ahd sophisticated flavors. Hold for another 6 - 9 months and then count on drinking the wine nicely over the next five years. Score 88. (Retasted 18 July 2000).

Meron, Cabernet Sauvignon, 1995: Drinking beautifully now, this remains a well balanced, soft, round and fruity wine with just enough firm tannins and herbal characteristics to give it character. Drink now or in the next year or two. Score 86. (Retasted 18 July 2000).

Meron, Cabernet Sauvignon, 1994: Medium to heavy bodied and with intrinsic good balance between tannins, acids and fruits, and just the right level of oak, tobacco flavors. Now at its peak and I estimate it will remain there for another 2 - 3 years. Score 90. (Retasted 18 July 2000)

Meron, Cabernet Sauvignon, 1993: At its peak or perhaps a bit past, but still eminently drinkable, this full bodied wine has matured well, losing its aromas of damp grass but attaining in the process remarkably rich bouquet that cannot help but enchant. With tannins that have softened, a color that is beginning to show hints of brown around its edges, the wine will remind many of the Medoc wines of the same vintage years. Drink now or in the next year. Score 91. (Retasted 18 July 2000)

Meron, Cabernet Sauvignon, 1991: As near-black in color now as when it was released, this well made wine continues to please, its now lightly musky aromas enchanting rather than putting you off and with flavors that continue to linger on and on without end. At its peak, the wine should be drunk now or in the next year or so. Score 91. (Retasted 18 July 2000)

Meron, Chardonnay 1999: Fresh, fruity and almost frizzante when well chilled, this wine delights every time I taste it. With fig, pear and melon flavors, a pleasant earthy and spicy flavors and an appealing mineral overtone, this remains a wine worth seeking out. Drink now or in the next two - three years. Score 88. (Retasted 18 July 2000)

Meron, Chardonnay, 1995: Starting to fade but with a still attractive bouquet that has assumed a nice hint of earthiness and with a still steely finish, this wine has always called to mind the Chardonnay of Chablis. That the wine has stayed fresh so long is a cause for celebration. If you have any on hand though, be sure to drink it in the near future. Score 87. (Retasted 18 July 2000)

Meron, Chardonnay, 1994: That the '95 version of this wine is still fresh delighted me, but that the '94 remains full bodied, remarkably fruity and still sharply refreshing is a minor miracle. You may have to hunt a bit for the apple and melon aromas that once typified this wine but they are still there and the wine continues to develop very nicely on the palate and has flavors that linger comfortably on the palate. I still have three bottles left in my cellar and intend to drink one every year to see how it fares in the future. Score 88. (Retasted 18 July 2000).

© Daniel Rogov