Throughout history, grapes have been more one of the favorite fruits of the entire Mediterranean Basin. During the reign of Pharaoh Tutankhamen, the vineyards at Luxor boasted such lavish production that grapes were said to be "more plentiful than the water of the Nile at its highest mark". Ever since that early time, the grape has served as a symbol of luxury, good taste and elegance.

Nor did grapes did not lose their popularity after the demise of the pharaohs. A favorite of the biblical matriarchs and patriarchs, old and new testament prophets and kings of Israel, there are over 300 references to the grape in the Old Testament. Mentioned frequently in the New Testament and the Koran they were also much appreciated by the disciples of Jesus and Mohammed.

Even though grapes and their fermented juice have earned the devoted attention of poets, artists and lovers, few songs have been sung and nary a play dedicated to the leaves of the grape vine. All of which is odd, for everywhere in the Mediterranean basin and especially in the Holy Land, the people have made an art-form of using this particular culinary treat. Mature grape leaves are used to wrap small fish and birds and to make delicious hors d'oeuvres. The youngest and most tender of the vine leaves are used to make fritters or, when finely chopped, are added to green salads. In some homes they are also to be found in use as decorative garnishes with fresh fruits.

Fresh grape leaves are best for cooking. The leaves should be soaked in hot water for 5 - 6 minutes before using. If prepared in advance by a local market, they may, depending on personal taste, be used as is or soaked for about 1 hour in cold water. If only tinned leaves are available, these should be soaked for 5 - 6 hours in cold water. In all cases, after soaking the leaves should be rinsed under cold water and then very gently squeezed dry between toweling before using in the following recipes.

The love for the leaves of the vine has not precluded the use of grapes in a large variety of cooking. The following recipes may take one a bit off the usually beaten culinary path, but each will prove a delight for the palate and for one's guests.

Vine Leaves with Lamb

1 cup rice, uncooked
1/2 kilo lamb, ground
3 Tbsp. butter
1 tsp. each allspice and pepper
1/4 tsp. cinnamon
1 Tbsp. salt
20 vine leaves
1/4 cup lemon juice

Soak the rice in water for 15 minutes and then drain well. In a mixing bowl mix together the lamb, rice, butter, allspice, cinnamon, pepper and salt. With the hands knead together well.

Place the vine leaves with the spine facing up and on each place 1 Tbsp. of the meat mixture and then roll the leaves, folding in the corners as you roll. Place the rolled leaves in a heavy sauce- pan in layers and add water to cover. Cover and cook over a low flame for 20 minutes. Add the lemon juice, cover again and cook for 5 - 6 minutes longer. Serve hot or cold. (Serves 4 - 6 as an hors d' oeuvre).

Stuffed Zucchini in Vine Leaves

12 small zucchini (courgettes)
2 Tbsp. onion, chopped
1 Tbsp. each celery and parsley, chopped
3 cloves garlic, minced
350 gr. ground beef
2 slices white bread, soaked and squeezed dry
1 egg
1 egg white
salt and pepper to taste
12 vine leaves
olive oil as required
2 cups chicken or beef stock
juice of 2 lemons

Rinse the zucchini well and trim the ends. With a small spoon carefully scoop out most of the flesh. Set aside the shells.

Combine the onion, celery, parsley, garlic, ground beef, white bread, egg and egg white and mix together until the texture is smooth. Season to taste with salt and black pepper. With this mixture stuff the squash and then wrap each squash with a vine leaf, tucking in the edges of the leaf as you fold. If the leaves are not large enough to hold the squash firmly, tie them with kitchen string. Brush the exterior of each rolled squash with olive oil and place in a shallow pan.

Pour over enough stock to cover and bring to a boil. Reduce the flame and simmer for 1/2 hour. Add the lemon juice and continue to simmer over very low flame for 1 1/2 hours longer. Add more stock or water during cooking only if the pan dries out. If serving hot, serve in the sauce. To serve cold, remove the wrapped squash from the stock and let cool before refrigerating. (Serves 6).

Stuffed Grape Leaves with Avgolemono Sauce
Dolmodakia Avgolemono

24 vine leaves
1 1/2 Tbsp. olive oil
350 gr. lamb, minced
2 medium onions, chopped finely
1/4 - 1/2 tsp. each salt, pepper and allspice
125 gr. rice, uncooked
1/2 tsp. dried mint leaves, crumbled finely
2 tsp. parsley, chopped finely
1 cup beef stock
2 egg yolks
1 Tbsp. lemon juice

Put the vine leaves in a large amount of lightly salted water. Slowly bring to a boil and let boil gently for 2 - 3 minutes. Quickly plunge the leaves into cold water and then let the water drip off. Lay the leaves flat on a board, outer side down.

In a skillet heat the oil and in this saute the lamb and onions until the onions are lightly browned. Sprinkle over with the salt, pepper and allspice and add the rice, cooking and stirring continuously until the grains are well coated (2 - 3 minutes). Add 1/2 cup water and continue cooking until the water is completely absorbed. Mix in the mint and parsley and remove from the flame. Let cool for about 1/2 hour.

Place a heaping tablespoon of the meat mixture on each leaf and roll the leaf, tucking in the ends as you roll. Squeeze the rolls gently in the hand. When all of the rolls are ready place them, side by side, in a shallow pan and pour over just enough stock to cover. Cover with a small plate which rests on top of the dolmadakia and bring to a boil. Cover the pan and cook over lowest possible flame for about 1 hour, adding additional stock if necessary.

Prepare the sauce by whisking the egg yolks until they are thickened. Beat in the lemon juice and then beat in 1/2 cup of the liquid in which the grape leaves were cooked. Transfer the stuffed leaves to a heated serving platter, spoon over the sauce and serve immediately. (Serves 6 as an hors d'oeuvre).

White Gazpacho with Grapes

125 gr. blanched almonds
2 - 4 cloves garlic
1« tsp. salt
4 slices stale bread, with crusts removed
6 Tbsp. olive oil
1/4 cup red wine vinegar
ice water as required
about 50 seedless grapes, peeled
crustless white bread, lightly toasted, for serving

With a mortar and pestle or blender crush together the almonds, garlic and salt until the almonds are very finely ground. Soak the stale bread in cold water and then squeeze carefully to extract most of the liquids. Gradually add the bread to the almond mixture, blending thoroughly. Pour in the oil in a thin stream, mixing constantly and then add the vinegar, blending well. Into this beat 1 cup of ice water.

Transfer the mixture to a large bowl and stir in 3 more cups of ice water. Season to taste with additional salt and vinegar if necessary. Strain, pressing with the back of a wooden spoon to extract as much of the liquid as possible. Refrigerate until very well chilled. Add the grapes about 1 hour before serving and then serve very well chilled, with the toasted bread. (Serves 4 - 6).

Chicken with Grapes

2 Tbsp. butter
2 Tbsp. peanut or safflower oil
2 chickens, about 1 kilo each, trussed
1/2 tsp. each thyme and marjoram
about 1 tsp. salt
pepper to taste
1 medium onion, sliced thinly
2 - 3 cloves garlic, chopped
2 stalks celery, without leaves, chopped
1 kilo tomatoes, peeled and chopped coarsely
3/4 cup dry white wine
1/2 kilo white grapes, skinned and seeded

In a Dutch oven or other similar baking pan heat the butter and oil together and in this brown the chicken well on all sides. Season the birds with the thyme, marjoram and salt and pepper to taste and set aside.

In the fat of the pan saute the onion, garlic and celery for about 5 minutes, not letting them brown. Add the tomatoes to the pan. On the tomato mixture place the chickens on their sides. Cover and bake in a medium oven for about 20 minutes. Turn the chickens and continue baking until tender (20 - 30 minutes longer). Remove the chickens from the sauce and set aside to keep warm.

Blend the vegetables and juices in the pan into a smooth puree. Return this puree to the pan and cook over a medium flame until it has reduced and thickened (about 10 minutes). Add the wine and continue to cook, stirring regularly for 5 minutes. Add the grapes and continue cooking and stirring gently for 5 minutes longer. Place the chickens on a large preheated serving platter and pour over the sauce with the grapes. Serve at once. (Serves 6 - 8).

Filets of Sole with Grapes

8 sole filets
salt and pepper to taste
juice of 1/2 lemon
3/4 cup medium-dry or dry white wine
1/4 tsp. tarragon
3 Tbsp. butter
3 Tbsp. flour
1/2 cup sweet cream, boiling hot
350 gr. red grapes, peeled and seeded

Season the filets with salt, pepper and the lemon juice. In a saucepan pour the wine over the sole and sprinkle over the tarragon. Bring to a boil and poach just until the fish is tender (it should flake easily to the touch of a fork), taking care not to overcook.

While the fish are poaching, melt the butter in a separate saucepan and into this stir the flour, whipping until smooth. To the butter mixture add the cream and mix together well. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Transfer the poached filets carefully to a buttered flameproof dish that may be used for serving. Reduce the wine in which the fish were cooked by boiling rapidly for about 1 minute and then pour the wine into the sauce. Stir, over a low flame, until the sauce is at the consistency of thick cream. Add the grapes and let them heat through for 2 - 3 minutes. Pour the sauce over the fish and place under a very hot broiler for about 3 minutes. Serve piping hot. (Serves 4).

Grape Tarts

1 cup + 2 Tbsp. sugar
5 egg yolks
2/3 cup flour, sifted
2 cups boiling milk
1 Tbsp. butter
2 tsp. vanilla extract
1/4 cup rum or cognac
1 cup red currant jelly
2 pie crusts, fully baked
about 6 cups white or red grapes, peeled and seeded

Prepare a custard filing by gradually beating 1 cup of the sugar into the egg yolks. Continue to beat for 3 - 4 minutes, until the mixture is pale yellow and forms a ribbon when held up by a wooden spoon. Into this mixture beat the flour and blend well. Continue to beat and gradually pour over the boiling milk in a very thin stream of droplets.

Pour the mixture into a heavy bottomed saucepan and set over a medium high flame. Stir constantly with a wire whisk, reaching all over the sides and bottom of the pan. As the custard begins to boil it will appear lumpy but will smoothen out as you continue to beat. When a boil is reached, reduce to a low flame and continue cooking and beating for 2 - 3 minutes longer, taking care not to let the custard scorch in the bottom of the pan.

Remove this custard from the flame and beat in the butter, vanilla and 2 Tbsp. of the rum or cognac. Place a small pat of butter on a fork and with this gently brush the surface of the custard.

In a separate saucepan boil together the currant jelly, remaining sugar and remaining cognac or rum. The mixture will be ready to use as a glaze when the last drops to fall off a spoon are sticky. With this mixture brush the interior of the pie shells and let set for 5 minutes. Reserve the remainder of the glaze for later use.

In the bottom of each pie shell spread a layer of the custard cream. On the custard arrange circular rows of the grapes, filling the pie shell and placing the grapes close together. Over the grapes spoon a thin coating of the glaze (if the glaze has hardened, reheat before using). Serve at room temperature or chilled, but no longer than 1 hour after having filled the pie shells. (Yields 2 pies).

© Daniel Rogov