There are those who adore them and those that cannot tolerate them, but to devotees, mangoes are thought to be among the best fruits in the world. Green in color on the tree and then turning orange-yellow when ripe, mangoes have long been a favorite of the East Indies and China. Even though they have been raised commercially in Israel for less than twenty years, these succulent fruits have rapidly become an Israeli favorite. In addition to their fine taste, mangos offer another advantage to Israelis - they sell in local produce markets for than half their cost in Europe or America.

Starting about a decade ago, several of the more inventive chefs in Tel Aviv and Jerusalem restaurants started preparing mangoes together with fish and poultry dishes.The trend even became popular in California. Many lovers of the culinary arts feel that this is a mistake, for as delightful as they may be, mangoes are so powerful in taste and aroma that their use simply drowns out the natural flavor of the sole or duckling being served. It is my devout hope that the fad of serving up entrees with mango sauce, grilled mangoes or even mashed mangoes will eventually pass the way of the chocolate-covered ant.

The best uses of the mango, other than serving it as a well chilled fruit, are found in the making of desserts, jams, salads (always to follow and never to accompany a main course) and chutney, that delightful Indian and Caribbean relish with a well deserved reputation as a superb condiment.

For use in cooking, mangoes (which are available in America and England during the winter months), should be purchased while still slightly green. To ripen mangoes, simply wrap them individually in newspaper, place them in a covered cardboard box and let them stand in a relatively warm place until ready. Each of the following recipes will serves 4 - 6.


Mango Chutney

1/2 cup seedless raisins
rum as required
8 green mangoes, peeled, stoned and cut in large dice
brown sugar as required
4 cups of malt or cane vinegar
2 - 3 chili peppers, seeded and chopped finely
1 large onion, chopped coarsely
2 - 3 cloves garlic, chopped finely
1/2 cup ginger, ideally fresh, peeled and chopped
1 tsp. whole allspice

Place the raisins in a cup and pour over rum to cover. Let soak for 15 minutes and then drain.

Place the mangoes in a saucepan and pour over water just to cover. Bring to a boil, lower the flame and simmer gently until the fruit is tender (12 - 15 minutes). Drain and weigh the fruit. Weigh out an equal amount of brown sugar.

Add the brown sugar to a separate saucepan with 3 cups of the vinegar. Bring to the boil and cook, stirring regularly, until a thick syrup is formed.

Mix the chili peppers, onion, garlic and ginger with the remaining vinegar. Add the cooked mangoes, allspice and raisins and pour into the saucepan with the vinegar-sugar syrup. Bring slowly to the boil and continue to boil gently, stirring regularly, until the mixture thickens (about 15 minutes). Cool, transfer to hot sterile jars, seal and store until ready to use. Serve as a condiment to accompany Indian dinners and nearly all poultry dishes.


Mango and Chicken Salad
(one of the few exceptions to my rule about now combining mango and poultry)

2 firm but ripe mangoes
1 tsp. salt
1 Tbs. vegetable oil
3 - 4 cloves garlic, sliced thinly
6 green onions, cut into «" (1 cm) pieces
1/2 lb. (225 gr.) chicken breasts, cut in julienne strips
1 Tbsp. coarsely ground roasted peanuts
2 Tbsp. anchovy fillets, chopped finely
1 tsp. brown sugar

Peel and slice the mangoes thinly. Sprinkle over with the salt and let stand for 5 minutes. Wash the slices and dry on paper toweling.

In a heavy skillet heat the oil and over a medium flame saute the garlic until it begins to brown. With a slotted spoon remove and discard the garlic and then add the green onions to the hot oil and saute for 1 minute longer. Add the strips of chicken and saute until cooked through. Add the remaining ingredients and mix thoroughly. Remove from the flame, transfer to a serving bowl and let cool. Refrigerate and serve well chilled.


Mango Ice Cream

1/2 lb. (225 gr) sugar
pinch of cream of tartar
4 ripe mangoes, peeled, stoned and run through a fine sieve
the juice of 1 lime or lemon
2 cups sweet cream, whipped lightly


In a skillet mix the sugar and cream of tartar and sugar add 4 Tbsp. of water. Over a medium flame bring to the boil and then immediately lower the flame, cooking over a low flame and stirring constantly until the syrup thickens.

To the mixture add the mango and lime juice and then stir in the cream, blending well. Pour into a freezing tray or into individual serving dishes and place in the freezer until halfway frozen. Remove again, whip well, return to the freezer and let freeze firmly. Transfer to the regular refrigerator compartment about 15minutes before serving.

Flaming Mango Dessert


2 cups sugar
1 tsp. vanilla extract
6 large ripe mangoes, peeled and sliced
1/4 cup Cognac or other high quality brandy

In a saucepan combine the sugar and vanilla with 1 cup of water and heat over a low flame, stirring regularly, for 30 minutes. Add the mango slices to the syrup and simmer until the syrup is reduced to 1/4 of its original amount. Remove the slices to a serving platter and stack attractively. Let cool for 30 minutes, cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate.

Just before serving, put the Cognac in a small saucepan and heat through. Pour the Cognac over the mango slices and very carefully flame. Serve while still flaming.


Mango Jam

slightly green mangoes, peeled, stoned and cut into small dice
sugar as required

Place the mango flesh in a saucepan and pour over just enough water to cover. Bring to the boil and cook until soft (15 - 20 minutes). Drain the mangoes well and then rub through a fine sieve, discarding the stringy remains. Weigh the mango pulp and transfer to a clean saucepan with an equal weight of sugar. Bring the mixture to a boil and then reduce the flame. Continue to simmer, stirring regularly, until the mixture forms a jelly when dropped onto a cold plate. Transfer to hot sterile jars, seal and store until ready for use.

© Daniel Rogov