Since Biblical times, couscous has been the most famous dish of North Africa and different versions of this beloved stew have made their way to Israel via Jewish immigrants from Morocco, Algeria and Tunisia, the three nations that make up the region known as the Maghreb. Originally devised by wandering Berber tribesmen some 4,000 years ago, the dish is based on simple-to-prepare meats, hard wheat semolina and a variety of vegetables and side dishes. Despite its seeming simplicity, dinners based on couscous are nearly always an excuse for creating a festive atmosphere.

As there are a nearly infinite varieties of any stew, couscous is no exception. Algerian versions will invariably include tomatoes; Moroccan offerings will use saffron; and Tunisian couscous will be highly spiced. Side dishes, to be added to the stew, vary widely, depending on the whims of individual cooks. Wherever it is served, however, couscous will be accompanied by a bowl of hot sauce to be added to each diner's portion in accordance with his or her tolerance level for such condiments.

In traditional Arab homes and restaurants, the finished dish is heaped onto a large plate, the couscous (which is the semolina that makes up the bulk of the dish below), meat and vegetables on top. The accompanying soup, hot sauce and side dishes are served in separate bowls. Diners, seated cross-legged in a circle around low table then eat from this common plate, scooping up the couscous with wooden spoons or chunks of pita bread. In restaurants and more modern homes, etiquette is more relaxed and the use of forks, knives and spoons is considered perfectly appropriate.

Couscous may be North African in origin, but it is a dish so popular throughout Israel that a visiting American food writer recently wrote that "if it were not for this popular dish, many Israelis would go hungry at least one day of every week".

Couscous

For the Couscous and Stew:
1/4 cup olive or corn oil
1 kilo stewing beef or lamb
1 small cabbage, quartered
3 zucchini squash, halved
3 small carrots, halved
2 stalks celery, halved
1 turnip, quartered
2 Tbsp. tomato puree
1 1/4 tsp. each salt and pepper
1/2 tsp. each sweet paprika and dill seed
1 small chicken, cut into convenient pieces
1 kilo couscous (semolina)
4 small potatoes

The Side Dishes (See following recipes):
2 1/2 cups spiced chickpeas
1/2 kilo mutton meat balls
1/2 cup hot sauce (home made or commercially prepared)
1/4 kilo sliced fried eggplant
1/2 kilo or more well fried merguez sausages or spicy link sausages

In a large, heavy kettle heat the oil and place into this all of the ingredients except the chicken, couscous and potatoes. Stir well for several minutes while cooking over a medium flame. Reduce to a medium-low flame, add warm water to cover generously and cook, covered for 1 hour and 45 minutes. Skim the surface as necessary during the cooking process. Add the potatoes and chicken and cook for another 45 minutes.

Dampen the semolina with 1/2 cup water and mix gently but well. Put the semolina in a colander which will fit on the kettle with the meat and chicken mixture and place the colander on so that the steam will cook the semolina. The semolina should be put on the kettle for the last 30 minutes of cooking.

Serve the semolina, meats, vegetables and soup in separate bowls. Each of the side dishes should also be served in separate bowls so that guests may make combinations that suit their personal tastes. Serve hot. May also be served with an assortment of olives, hot peppers and various pickles. (Serves 6 - 10).

Mutton Meatballs

1/2 kilo chopped mutton or lamb
1 medium onion, chopped finely
1 slice white bread, without crusts
1 egg 1 tsp. parsley, chopped
1 clove garlic, chopped
1/2 tsp. each salt and black pepper
1/4 tsp. hot paprika (may use more, to taste)
about 3 Tbsp. flour
oil as required

In a mixing bowl combine the meat, onion, white bread, egg, parsley, garlic, salt, pepper and paprika. Knead well by hand and form into meatballs about 2 1/2 cm. in diameter. Roll the meatballs in the flour, coating lightly.

In a heavy skillet heat a small amount of oil and in this brown the meatballs over a high flame. Reduce the flame, add enough oil to just cover the meatballs and cook, covered, over a medium flame until the meatballs are done (about 20 minutes). May be served hot or cold.

Spiced Chickpeas

1/2 kilo chickpeas
1 parsley, chopped finely
1 1/2 tsp. olive oil
1/2 tsp. each caraway seed, salt and black pepper
1/4 tsp. powdered cardamom
1 clove garlic crushed
hot paprika to taste

If using dried chickpeas, soak them in water overnight. Drain and cover with fresh water and cook over a low flame, covered for three hours. If using tinned chickpeas, eliminate this step. In any case, drain the chickpeas and place them in an attractive serving bowl. Add the remaining ingredients and toss gently but well. (May be served hot or cold).

Fried Eggplant

2 large eggplants
2 Tbsp. salt
1 cup olive oil
4 - 6 cloves garlic, sliced
parsley and lemon wedges for garnish

Peel the eggplants or leave unpeeled, depending on individual taste and cut into slices about 1 1/2 cm. thick.

In a large bowl, dissolve the salt in an amount of water adequate to cover the eggplant. Add the slices and let soak for 30 - 40 minutes. Remove the slices from the water and squeeze dry between paper towels. In a heavy skillet heat the oil and in this fry the garlic slices just until they turn brown. Remove the garlic slices with a slotted spoon and discard them. In the hot oil fry the eggplant slices on both sides until well browned. Remove from the oil and drain on paper toweling. Serve hot.

Moroccan Hot Sauce

3 Tbsp. grated horseradish
2 Tbsp. lemon juice
1 Tbsp. chili sauce
1/2 tsp. ground cardamom
1 tsp. caraway seed
4 hot red peppers, chopped finely with their seeds
1 tsp. black pepper
1 tsp. hot paprika

Combine all the ingredients and mix well. May be stored if sealed, in refrigerator. Because this sauce is quite hot, advise your guests to add very small amounts until they find the level most pleasing to their palates.

© Daniel Rogov