Whether Israeli wines and the wine awareness of the public have undergone a revolution or merely an awakening is something for linguists and wine lovers to debate over in their free time, but there can be no question that the wine that put Israel firmly and squarely on the international wine agenda was the 1983 Yarden Cabernet Sauvignon from the then fledgling Golan Heights Winery. When that wine was first released most people could not believe that the wine was Israeli. It was simply too good.

In the intervening years, the winery has released a host of wines of various varietals in their various series (Katzrin, Yarden, Gamla and Golan) and although the winery may no longer be the "new boy on the block", they continue to produce wines that often attain acclaim for their excellence. To the Golan winery goes credit for two major advances - first for demonstrating that Israel was definitely a part of the New-World wine phenomenon and second that there is no inherent contradiction to producing fine wines that happen to be kosher.

Over the years I have tasted each of the Cabernet Sauvignon wines in the Yarden series, some on many occasions. A tasting (14 Feb 2001) held at the, not far from Katzrin on the Golan Heights, allowed me for the first time to make a vertical tasting, that is to say, a side by side tasting of the wines from each of the sixteen vintages that have passed since that first wine was produced. Among the things we have learned about the Cabernets in this series are that they are aged for 18 months in mostly new oak barrels, tend to be somewhat tannic when first released, but despite that drink nicely even in their youth, especially when given time to open in the glass. Equally important, experience has demonstrated that although the wines drink very nicely for four to five years after their harvest, they then tend to go into a dumb period (a period in which the wine gives the illustion that it is declining in quality). Given a year or two or even more, however, the wines re-awaken and only then attain their true potential. As will be seen in the reviews that follow, many of these wines have the ability to develop very nicely indeed in the bottle for 8 - 10 or even more years.

Keep in mind when reading the following notes that all of the wines were stored under ideal conditions. As always, my scores are based on a maximum of 100 points. Wines that earn 90 - 95 points are exceptional in every way; and wines scoring 85 - 89 are excellent and highly recommended.

1998 (advance tasting): Dark, ripe and intense, marked by plum, prune, cherry, currant and mineral notes this still young wine finishes with firm tannins and a definite sense of finesse. Give the wine a few years (it will only be released during the Spring of 2001) and watch for currant, vanilla, and a hint of anise to develop in its flavors and aromas. The wine will be appealing when released (during the Spring of 2001) but will be at its best if set aside for further aging. A wine that promises to develop nicely for 8 - 10 years. Score 91.

1997: Opening now and showing excellent balance between silky smooth tannins, fruits and natural acids. make this a delightful wine for drinking now even though it is still in its youth. Red and black currants, black berry and plums, and just enough spice in its flavors and aromas make the wine very tempting to drink now but I find the wine delicious enough to hold it starting to drink it seriously. With flavors that linger very nicely, the wine will probably show its very best face only in another 2 - 3 years. Score 92.

1996: When this wine was first released I found it "concentrated and full bodied, with aromas of stewed plums, cherries, black currants, vanilla and just a hint of anise". A bit of aging has made the wine feel a bit lighter on the palate but that does not at all interfere with its pleasures. Remarkably young in its appearance, with black fruit and vanilla flavors dominating but now with developing overtones of Mediterranean herbs, this remains a delicious wine, and although completely approachable now it will store nicely for another 5 - 7 years. Score 90+.

1995: A wine that needs to open but by heaven, once poured it opens and opens and opens, revealing luscious layers of flavors of black currants, plums, tobacco and vanilla in its flavors and aromas. Full bodied and with concentrated but now smooth tannins, the wine promises to continue developing nicely in the bottle until 2005 - 2008. Look for a pleasing hint of raspberry flavor as the wine lingers on the palate. Score 92.

1994: Reflecting a problematic harvest year, when this wine was first released it was so closed that I wondered if it would ever open at all. The wine, which I tasted from both regular and magnum sized bottles, is definitely coming into its own at this writing and although a bit lighter than most of its brothers and sisters in this series, now shows lovely prune, plum, black fruit and lavender aromas and flavors. Drinking beautifully now in either the regular or magnum formats, the wine can be sampled now but promises to continue its development for another 3 - 4 years. My original score: 85. Revised score 89.

1993: One of the very best wines ever produced in Israel. With impeccable balance and an elegant bouquet, this concentrated, full bodied and powerful wine has now attained enviable levels of roundness, depth and complexity. Silky tannins that give the wine just the right bite, flavors that unfold comfortably on the palate and a long finish make this a wine that, while drinking very nicely now, will store nicely for another 6 - 8 years. If luxury in wines is your passion, this is a wine for you! Score 95.

1992: Robust, tannic and closed when it was first released, but even then giving hints of its potential, this deep purple, full bodied wine now shows excellent balance between its smooth tannins, acids and fruits. With a bouquet that hints nicely of black currants, black cherries, and an enchanting blend of vanilla and herbaceous, and with flavors that fill the mouth nicely and then linger comfortably after the wine has been swallowed the wine is drinking well now but will store nicely for several years more. The wine was tasted in regular and magnum formats with consistent notes. Score 92.

1991: Maturing now but drinking well, this now deep royal purple wine shows appealing if not somewhat reserved aromas and flavors of currants, cedar, cherries and just a bit of herbal-vegetative flavors. Not as concentrated, well balanced or as deep as some of the wines in the series that came before or followed it, but still a wine worth trying. Drink now or in the near future. Score 87.

1990: Another candidate for the best Israeli wine. With all of the best traits of Cabernet, this once massive tannins of this remarkably well balanced wine have become smooth and integrated into a wine that is concentrated and has an intense bouquet of black currants, oak and vanilla. With generous hints of saddle-leather and cedar wood in its aromas and flavors that linger on and on on the palate, the wine is beautiful for drinking now but promises to last nicely for another 6 - 8 or even more years. Score 95.

1989: Deep clear maroon in color, with aromas that call to mind fruits as diverse in nature as berries, pears and cherries and with a virtual "rainbow of aromas" (including coffee, leather, smoke and vanilla) this beautiful full-bodied wine remains ripe, subtle and richly tannic. The wine is drinking beautifully and should continue to hold this level for another 2 - 3 years. Score 93.

1988: I have always considered this wine somewhat more one-dimensional than others of the Yarden Cabernets, and this latest tasting did not change that opinion. Despite that, this remains a good wine, now with light meaty and earthy aromas creeping in, not hiding but overlaying currant, black fruit and spice aromas, and maintaining a good overall balance. Smooth as it sits on the palate, and with a smoky, vanilla aftertaste, the wine should be drunk now or in the next year or so. Score 88+.

1987: Perhaps the greatest surprise of the tasting, for at my last two tastings (one and two years ago), the wine seemed to have reached its peak and I suggested drinking it fairly quickly. Now, as if it has gained a second wind, the wine has blossomed forth, revealing an abundance of currants, black cherries and vanilla all overlaid nicely by aromas of saddle leather and cinnamon (did I find a bit of nutmeg as well???). Drinking better than ever in the past the wine that will make for beautiful drinking now or, with a bit of luck, another 2 - 3 years. Score 89+.

1986: Not one of the very best of the series, partly because it was far lighter than most of its brothers and sisters, I once described this wine as
"nice but lacking in excitement". At a tasting two years ago, the wine was still drinking well although it was showing signs of tiredness. At this tasting, although still possible to drink and enjoy, it was clear that the wine is browning a bit and going down rather rapidly. Drink in the very near future.
Score 85.

1985: Every time I taste this wine with Victor Shoenfeld, the talented senior winemaker of the Golan Heights Winery, we concur that this is "a wine that simply won't die". Deep and warm, concentrated, heady and exotic, with spicy plum, blackcurrants and blackberries all overlayed with stewed fruits, chocolate and leather, this is a wine that belies its age, making for remarkably exciting drinking. Mouthfilling, and with flavors of coffee and chocolate that linger nicely, I have come to that point where I simply refuse to say how long this wine will last. My personal stock is reduced to only four bottles, and I intend to open one bottle every year from now on to follow the continuing saga of this beautiful wine. Score 93.

1984: Probably the heaviest, most tannic wine ever made by the winery. The fine color is still there, and when first decanted the wine shows hints of its once aromatic bouquet and fine flavors. That the wine was a survivor is beyond question but after a few minutes in the glass those aromas and flavors fade leaving not very much of its past glory. If you have any left on hand, drink up but be sure to have a standby bottle on hand. No longer scoreable.

1983: Two years ago when I tasted this wine it was still drinking nicely but I suggested then that it should not be counted on for further aging. The wine is still alive but in the intervening years its charms have faded completely. Fair enough considering that this was the landmark wine that changed forever the face of Israeli winemaking. No longer scoreable.

© Daniel Rogov