More than three thousand years ago, in order to safeguard the rich spice caravans that were making their way through the Land of Sheba, King Solomon sent soldiers from Jerusalem to the southern tip of the Arabian Peninsula. Knowing that they would probably never return to the Promised Land, the soldiers set off with their wives and children. Once there, in the land today known as Yemen, the families settled in for a prolonged stay and for nearly three thousand years the Jews of Yemen were cut off, not only from their Jewish brothers and sisters but for all practical purposes, from the rest of the world as well.

Despite their isolation the community guarded its religious and cultural traditions zealously. There was occasional contact with the Holy Land, but this was so limited that until the 17th century scribes continued to copy the holy books by hand. The printing press was introduced into Yemen only in the 18th century.

In 1950 a huge airlift, now known as "Operation Magic Carpet" brought tens of thousands of Yemeni Jews to Israel. Unfortunately, not all who wanted to come to Israel were allowed to leave Yemen and until recently several thousand families remained hind, separated as they had been for thousands of years, from their families and from Jerusalem, the city they prayed for every night. Several years ago, in an operation of military precision so secret that not even all of the members of the government were aware of it, Israel began to plan "Operation Magic Carpet 2". The planning paid off, however, for within a period of weeks, nearly all of the remaining Jews in Yemen came home to Israel.

The Yemenites may have been separated from their homeland for many years but once in Israel they were integrated into Israeli society and rapidly became part of the mainstream of local culture. . In many ways, thankfully, they have maintained their independence and their own folkways. The unique intonation of their Hebrew speech, the special tonal qualities of their communal singing and their colorful dress patterns have come to be a taken-for-granted part of Israeli life. It is possible that the aspect of Yemenite culture that has been most happily accepted is the cuisine. When the Jews of Yemen arrived in Israel they brought with them an ancient and sophisticated culinary tradition that was nearly two thousand years old. And much of what they brought has become part of the everyday fare that can now be found throughout Israel.

On an overall basis, many Europeans have ignored Yemeni cuisine, claiming that it is "too exotic" for the Western palate. It is true that traditional fare from Yemen includes such dishes as geed (bull's or ram's penis) and roasted locusts, but the truth is that these are no more "exotic" than the passions the French feel for snails, the Italians have for sea urchins or some Americans have for "Rocky Mountain oysters" (a convenient euphemism for sheep testicles).

The most representative dishes of the Jewish-Yemeni kitchen are delicious but not at all exotic and rely heavily on lamb, mutton and beef. Honey is used frequently in cookery as are tomatoes, cucumbers and mushrooms. Several especially tasty home-made breads are also important to this cookery. And, because this is the cuisine of a people that were not ordinarily wealthy, nearly all of the foods used are easily and inexpensively available. What makes the cuisine unique is the subtle use of herbs and spices along with a few unique but easily mastered cooking methods.

Most Israeli Yemenites dine in the European fashion, but even in many of the most modern homes, meals served on special holidays continue to be served in the traditional way. At such events, diners are seated on cushions alongside of round copper tables. In addition to the cushions they sit on, pillows are also spread around the floor making it easier to recline during the meal - a sign of luxury afforded only to free men and free women in their own homes. The meal itself will be a simple but delicious one, and every diner will make a point of eating bread dipped in hilbeh (clarified butter to which fenugreek seeds have been added).

The dinner that follows is based on recipes given to me by Yemeni families residing in Jerusalem and Tel Aviv. The meal is designed to serve 4 - 6.

Mutton Meatballs

1/2 kilo boneless mutton or lamb, minced
1 medium onion, chopped finely
1 slice white bread, without crusts
1 egg
1 tsp. parsley, chopped
1/2 tsp. each salt and black pepper
1 - 2 cloves garlic, chopped
1/2 tsp. zhug (see note at the end of this recipe)
flour as required
oil as required

Mix the meat, onion, bread, egg, parsley, salt, pepper, garlic, and paprika. Knead well by hand and form into balls about 1" (2 cm.) in diameter. Sprinkle with the flour.

In a heavy skillet heat a small amount of oil and in this brown the meatballs over a high flame. Reduce the flame, add enough oil to just cover the meatballs and cook, covered, over a medium flame until the meatballs are done (about 20 minutes). May be served hot or cold either as a first course or with the soup which follows.

NOTE: Zhug, the most popular spice mixture of Yemen, can be purchased at delicatessen stores specializing in Ethnic cuisine. If you cannot find it, you can make it at home by pureing together 1 cup of fresh chili peppers and then adding 1/2 cup each of parsley and coriander leaves, blending again and then adding 1 Tbsp. minced garlic, 1 tsp. each of salt, pepper and ground cumin and a pinch of ground cardamom. Keep in mind that this flavorful blend is fiery hot and should be used only in very small quantities.

Seasoned Soup with Bread

1 Tbsp. fenugreek seeds
1/2 tsp. tomato puree
3 cups chicken or beef stock
2 loaves saluf bread (see recipe following) or pita
juice of 2 lemons

Soak the fenugreek seeds in water to cover for 3 hours. Drain the seeds well and grind them finely. Add the tomato puree and 1 Tbsp. of water and blend together well. Place the mixture over a low flame, stirring constantly until a boil is attained. Remove immediately from the flame and set aside.

Heat the stock and to this add the fenugreek mixture. Over a medium flame, stirring constantly, bring just to a boil. If the soup becomes overly thick add more stock. As soon as a boil is attained, remove from the flame. To serve, divide the breads into equal portions and place on portion in each soup bowl. Pour the hot soup over the bread, add the lemon juice and serve at once.

Oven Baked Flat Bread
Saluf

This is not an easy bread to make as the flipping of the flattened loaf onto the sides of a hot oven is an art-form that needs to be mastered. The practice will be well worth the effort. Should one's initial efforts fail, any flat bread (such as pita) may be substituted.

3 Tbsp. fenugreek seeds, crushed
1 1/2 tsp. tomato puree
1/2 kilo flour
1 Tbsp. active dry yeast

Mix the fenugreek seeds with the tomato puree and 3 Tbsp. of water and mix together well. Cook over a low flame, stirring constantly until a boil is attained and remove from the flame.

Sift together the flour and yeast and then knead the mixture together with just enough lukewarm water to make a moderately thick dough. Cover lightly and let stand to rise for « hour. Repeat the kneading and rising process 6 times in all, kneading at half hour intervals.

Heat the oven to its highest possible temperature. Turn off the heat and, taking care not to burn yourself, wipe the walls of the oven with a wet cloth. Immediately after the last kneading flat- ten the dough and make two thin loaves. Over each spread 3 Tbsp. of the fenugreek mixture and, with a rapid motion, stick the breads on the walls of the oven. Let cook just until the bread peels off the walls and falls to the floor of the oven.

Keep in mind that many Yemenis will make two portions of bread for each diner, one to be served in the soup and the other on a separate plate to be dipped into samneh. To prepare samneh simply melt 1 cup of butter together with 1 Tbsp. of, whole fenugreek seeds. When the butter has completely melted, skim the surface and carefully pour the butter into a small sauce dish, leaving behind the solids that have settled to the bottom of the skillet.

Steak with Hot Sauce

3 medium tomatoes, peeled and chopped
1 Tbsp. zhug (more or less to taste)
1 1/2 cups mushrooms, chopped
4 or 6 entrecote steaks (can also use any other cut of
steak or lamb chops)
3/4 cup beef stock
3 Tbsp. almonds, chopped

Place the tomatoes, zhug, chopped mushrooms and almonds in a small bowl and mi well. Spread this mixture on the steaks, divided evenly. Roll the steaks and close with wooden toothpicks.

Transfer the steaks to a lightly greased baking dish and pour over the beef stock. Place the steaks in an oven that has been preheated to 330 degrees Fahrenheit (170 Celsius) until done (about 1 hour, basting occasionally with the pan liquids. Add water or extra stock only if the liquids evaporate. Serve hot.

Fennel and Cucumber Salad

1/2 kilo fennel
10 small radishes
3 small cucumbers
1/4 cup olive oil
juice of 2 lemons
1/2 tsp. fresh mint, chopped
salt and pepper to taste
1/2 tsp. chives, chopped

Clean the vegetables well and dry with paper toweling. Cut the fennel into narrow strips, the radishes into thin slice and the cucumber into small cubes. Place in a serving dish.

Beat the oil and lemon juice together. Add the mint, salt and pepper and beat thoroughly. Pour the dressing over the vegetables, toss and garnish with the chives. Serve well chilled.

The Dessert

Honey and Nut Roll

125 gr. butter or margarine
1/2 kilo flour
2 Tbsp. each vinegar and oil
1/2 cup honey
1 cup finely chopped unsalted nuts
1 cup seedless raisins
1 Tbsp. poppy seeds

Allow the butter to soften. Mix the flour, vinegar, oil and butter, adding just enough water and kneading well until the dough is at an even consistency. Refrigerate for 30 minutes and roll out thinly. Trim to a long, rectangular shape.

Mix together the honey, nuts, raisins and poppy seeds. Onto the shorter edge of the rolled out dough spoon out a line of filling. Fold over and then repeat this spooning and folding process until all the ingredients are used. Place the roll on a greased cake pan and bake in an oven that has been preheated to 330 degrees Fahrenheit (170 Celsius) until done (about 1 1/2 hours). Serve warm or cool.

Dining on Locusts - Just In Case You're Curious

Several years ago, I was given the opportunity to sample locusts and found that they were actually quite delicate. Those who live in areas where these creatures occasionally swarm will find that cooking these tidbits is actually quite simple. One should preheat an oven to its maximum temperature and then turn the oven off. The locusts (how you catch the locusts is up to you) should then be placed in the oven, the door closed and the locusts left for 8 - 12 hours. On removal from the oven the locusts should be spread on baking tins and set out to dry in the sun for 24 - 30 hours.

(Alternatively they may be dried in a barely warm oven for about 12 - 15 hours). Before eating, ideally accompanied by cold beer. one should remove the heads, legs and wings. The dried locusts may be sprinkled over with salt and pepper to taste, although many like them with no additional seasoning.

© Daniel Rogov