Not too long ago, I attended and later wrote about a vertical tasting of the Ermitage Le Pavillon of Chapoutier.
Perhaps to demonstrate precisely how difficult the life of the wine critic can be, that article led to an invitation to do yet another tasting, in this case of the equally superb wines hermitage La Chapelle wines of Paul Jaboulet Aine. I will confess that at least when it comes to tasting wines this superb, I have no lack of courage.

With the exception of the 1999 wine, which was obtained especially from Jaboulet, the other wines were stored in perfect condition in the cellar of a private collector who was kind enough to host the tasting.

Paul Jaboulet Aine, Hermitage, La Chapelle, 1999: Deep, dense and concentrated, this deep ruby-purple wine has an abundance of multi-layered flavors. As you first sip look for deep red fruits, chocolate and minerals, and as the wine opens feel spices, roasted nuts, minerals and leather coming to the fore. Plenty of soft tannins in this luxurious wine. Drink from 2005 - 2025. Score 94.

Paul Jaboulet Aine, Hermitage, La Chapelle, 1998: With depth and concentration, this full bodied wine shows a range of flavors and aromas that include black fruits and berries all coming together very nicely indeed with smoky oak, leather and light earthy overtones. Long on the palate, with plenty of tannins and good balance the wine will be approachable as early as 2003 and should cellar nicely for 15 or 20 years. Score 93.

Paul Jaboulet Aine, Hermitage, La Chapelle, 1997: Reflecting a superb vintage year, this concentrated, dense and elegant wine is almost inky black in color. Look for plums, coffee, jammy fruit, Mediterranean herbs and an almost jammy fruit finish. Already drinking well, this is one for relatively young drinking - that is to say until about 2010.
Score 95.

Paul Jaboulet Aine, Hermitage, La Chapelle, 1996: If ever you wanted a Rhone wine to hold in your cellar for half a century, this is the one! Remarkably full bodied and powerful but with exquisite balance, there are loads of berry, plum, earthy and leather flavors and aromas here. Drink now if you absolutely must, for even now you will find flavors that linger on and on. On the other hand, keep in mind that the wine is still in its infancy and will be at its best only starting about 2010. Score 95.

Paul Jaboulet Aine, Hermitage, La Chapelle, 1995: This is a wine that seems to haunt me, somehow allowing tastings almost every six months over the last four years. All of which leaves me no cause for complaint for wtching the wine develop is an unalloyed joy. Just starting to come into its own (but don't jump to open your bottles), this still very young wine is starting to show deep black fruit and earthy flavors and aromas, all matched beautifully by tobacco, leather and appealing damp earth. (The limestone "feel" that I once found in the wine has now passed).
Best between 2005 - 2015 or longer. Score 92.

Paul Jaboulet Aine, Hermitage, La Chapelle, 1994: When I lasted tasted this wine (April 2000) I wrote that although it was not in its infancy, it was not at all far from toddlerhood. That still holds true, for despite its already ample pleasures the wine is still somewhat closed and only now starting its path to maturity. When the wine does reach its peak, however, you will find plenty of berry, cherry, currant, nutty, peppery and leather flavors and aromas all matched very well by tannins that are already smoothing out to show its fine intrinsic balance. This one will cellar well until 2015 - 2020. Score 95.

Paul Jaboulet Aine, Hermitage, La Chapelle, 1991: The first time I tasted this wine, in 1994, I predicted that although it was then tight and closed that it would one day open to reveal grace, elegance and greatness. How nice it is to be proven correct, for now that it is nearing its peak this concentrated and almost black wine shows extraordinary depth along with plum, black cherry, raspberry fruits all together with delicious hints of licorice, leather, and roasted nuts. Drink now - 2020. Score 96.

Paul Jaboulet Aine, Hermitage, La Chapelle, 1990: Undoubtedly the finest La Chapelle of the decade and perhaps of the 20th century. I tasted this wine three times within the last month with consistent notes and an overwhelming sense of awe each time. Following are notes from my tasting of 3 Jan 2001 that I found almost identical to those at this vertical tasting. An almost perfect wine from an almost ideal vintage year! Lots of tannins here, but those smooth and well balanced by fruits and acidity, this concentrated and powerful wine shows delicious wild berry, currant, mineral and fresh forest aromas and flavors. Yes, you can drink this one now but the wine promises to cellar very well indeed, certainly until 2030 and possibly even to 2050. Score 98.

Paul Jaboulet Aine, Hermitage La Chapelle, 1989: Full bodied and almost opaque deep purple in color, this remarkably rich and harmonious wine is now in its full glory, showing multiple layers of spicy dark fruit, chocolate, leather and coffee as well as hints of cloves. Look for what "feels" like a hint of rosewater on the long, long finish. Drinking beautifully now, the wine promises to cellar well for another decade. Score 95.

Paul Jaboulet Aine, Hermitage La Chapelle, 1988: If every you want to demonstrate to someone the perfection that can be attained with Rhone Syrah, this is the wine to open. Ripe and soft, but still remarkably concentrated and with an intense bouquet and flavors that go on and on, seemingly without end. If there is small surprise here it is the lead pencil and marked mineral notes that one finds, but let this put no one off - a superb wine by any standard. I know some will disagree with me, but I feel that the wine is already enjoyable. I do confess however that it will be at its best starting in about 2005 and then going on comfortably until 2025 - 2030. Score 95. (Most recently tasted 3 Jan 2001)

© Daniel Rogov