Even though she was burned at the stake in 1431, the trial of Jean of Arc has never ended and fifty million Frenchmen continue to argue about whether she was a nationalist or an armed nun, a schizophrenic or a visionary touched by the grace of God, a martyr or a charlatan, the first woman general or, as one Soviet encyclopaedia has it, a Communist freeing her people?

Three thousand books, more than two hundred plays, and at least a thousand poems have been written about her. The College de France dedicated an entire decade to studying the meaning of her being and the Vatican still maintains a special group of scholars devoted to exploring the realities of her life. Despite all that is known, there has been as much controversy over her identity as over that of Shakespeare, and in both cases the mystery remains unsolved. Perhaps George Bernard Shaw was right when he had her say "I shall be remembered when men have forgotten where Rouen stood". Which is not too bad for someone whose presence on the world stage lasted only two years.

Even though her identity and motivation remain in doubt, a great deal was recorded about Joan's dining habits and she has always commanded the greatest respect from people who care about fine food. A country girl (she was only nineteen when she died), she never lost her taste for simple foods. Taillard de Chardin wrote that "Joan had a remarkable appetite, and was often to be seen dining with her soldiers on whole roast chickens, pumpkins and turnips that had been cooked over an open fire." One of her captains, Jean de Soulat, wrote in his diary that "in the small hours of the morning, I have seen the maid filling one of her saddlebags with carrots, green peas and cabbages ... and these would sustain her until the time had come for dinner". Commenting on the pleasure she took from wine, Abbe Fontbonne, one of the religious monks who traveled with Joan noted that she had "a healthy liking for coarse red wine, and especially liked to add a spoonful or two to her soup".

Perhaps because she was also invited to dine with bishops, princes and counts, Joan also developed a taste for more refined foods. Many of the dishes she most enjoyed came from the district of Orleanais, an ancient province of France even today considered a gastronomic center. She developed special passions for pate made from quails, consomme to which sherry wine had been added, young rabbits in brandy sauce, and quenelles made from lobsters and served in a shrimp sauce. Whether Joan obeyed divine voices will always be open to speculation. Her good taste in dining is beyond doubt.

Sherry Consome

1 1/2 kilo beef shin bones, with meat on the bones, but with excess fat discarded
1 large onion, halved
1 large carrot, halved
1 large leek , white part only
1/2 turnip, peeled
1 stalk celery
1 bouquet garni made by tying together 3 sprigs parsley, 2 sprigs thyme and 1 bay leaf
salt and pepper to taste
2 egg whites
2 Tbsp. dry Sherry
spring onions, chopped, for garnish

In a medium oven brown the bones for 30 minutes, turning once.

In a large saucepan place the bones and all the remaining ingredients except the egg whites, sherry and spring onions. Salt lightly, add 10 cups water, stir, bring to a boil and skim off the foam. Simmer uncovered, skimming as necessary until the stock is reduced by about half (about 5 hours). Strain the stock and return to the pot.

In a large bowl beat the egg whites until firm but not stiff. Into this gradually pour the soup, mixing constantly. Return to the saucepan and cook over a low flame for 20 minutes, stirring often. Strain through cheesecloth, add the sherry and correct the seasoning with salt if necessary. To serve sprinkle over the spring onions. (Serves 6).

Lobster Quenelles with Shrimp Sauce

For the Quenelles:
750 grams lobster meat (can also use trout or salmon)
2 egg whites, beaten
3 cups sweet cream, well chilled
grated nutmeg to taste
salt and white pepper to taste
dash or two of cognac and Tabasco

For the Sauce:
2 Tbsp. butter
1/2 small onion, chopped finely
1 clove garlic, minced
1 1/2 Tbsp. flour
2 1/2 cups milk
1 cup chicken stock
1/2 kilo shrimps in their shells
salt and pepper to taste
2 Tbsp. ouzo, Pernod or Arak
1 tsp. tomato puree
1/4 cup sweet cream
4 teaspoons brandy

To make the quenelles, run the lobster meat through the finest blade of a food chopper three times. Place the ground lobster in a large bowl which sits comfortably on a bowl of ice. Using a wooden spoon, work the lobster into a smooth paste. Slowly work in the egg whites and season to taste with the nutmeg, salt, pepper, cognac and Tabasco. While still over the ice, slowly add the sweet cream, blending constantly.

To form the quenelles, have ready to moderately large spoons of equal size, a small bowl of hot water and a well buttered cookie tin. Leave one spoon in the hot water and with the other lightly scoop out just enough of the quenelle mixture to fill the spoon. Take the second spoon out of the hot water and invert it over the first to shape the quenelle. Do not press the spoons together: merely shape the quenelles.

To make the sauce, melt the butter in a large skillet and in this saute the onion and garlic until soft but not browned. Stir in the flour and continue to cook, stirring constantly, until bubbling but not boiling. Add the milk, stock, shrimps and salt and pepper to taste. Bring to a boil and immediately reduce the heat and let simmer for 5 - 6 minutes.

Remove the shrimp from the skillet and shell them. Crush the shells and add these, the ouzo and the brandy to the sauce. Simmer for 10 minutes and then strain the sauce. Stir in the tomato puree and the cream and correct the seasoning.

Arrange the quenelles in a buttered baking dish and over these arrange the shrimp. Pour the sauce over, covering generously, and bake in a medium-hot oven until the sauce is lightly browned and the quenelles have risen slightly (10 - 12 minutes). (Serves 4 - 6).

© Daniel Rogov