Although the French are convinced that they coined the term "ratafia", the word actually originated in New Orleans as part of the special Creole dialect. When first used the term referred exclusively to liqueurs made from a large variety of fruits (kumquats, cherries, melons, watermelons, quince) that are steeped in either wine, brandy or distilled alcohol. It was never used to refer to liqueurs made from grapes. Somewhere in the mid-19th century the usage of the term shifted somewhat, and since then when used accurately the term is refers almost exclusively to fruit based liqueurs produced either at home or on small farms. When you see a bottle labeled as ratafia in a supermarket or a wine store, take care, for some large producers, especially in the U.S.A. and France have begun producing mass-marketed, cheap liqueurs that they are selling under this name in order to give the illusion that they are hand-crafted items.

As in the case of marc or grappa, many of the very best examples of which are made on small farms or by micro-breweries, so it is with ratafia, and regardless of whether you are driving in the countryside of Burgundy, Maine, Piedmont or Provence, the best way to find such treats is by keeping your eye peeled on country roads for home-brewers who invariably put out small (often hand-painted signs) announcing their wares. Nearly all of these people will welcome you warmly into their homes, and will then enjoy tasting with you, whether in the end you decide to buy or not.

Nor is it at all difficult to make ratafias at home. Unlike wine, making ratafia requires minimal equipment and space and although a bit of experimentation will be in order before you find the exact combination of ingredients that most please you, but even the experimentation can be great fun. Those who care to try their hand at this rewarding hobby may find several of the following recipes useful.

Apricot Ratafia: Place 30 apricots in a large saucepan. Pour over 4 liters of white wine and bring to the boil. Add 1 kilo of sugar, 1 1/2 Tbsp. of powdered cinnamon and 1 liter of 40% alcoholic spirits. Remove from the flame, cover loosely and let stand to infuse for 4 days. Strain, filter and bottle, corking the bottles tightly.


Orange or Lemon Ratafia: Peel 6 oranges or 8 lemons carefully so that the white pith is not mixed with the outer rind. Chop the rind finely. Squeeze the juice of the fruits into a jar and to this add 1/2 kilo of lump sugar. Add the chopped rind, and 1/2 tsp. each of ground cinnamon and coriander. Pour over 1 liter of high quality brandy and mix together. Cover lightly and let infuse for 2 months before filtering, bottling and sealing tightly.


Ratafia of Peach and Apricot Stones: Half fill a stone crock with whole stones of peaches and apricots. Pour over enough spirits to fill the crock, cover, place in a sunny spot and let infuse for 45 days. Remove about 25% of the stones, crack them and return to the crock. Let stand to infuse for 15 days more. Strain the liqueur and measure the liquids. Measure an equal amount of water and for to every liter of water add 350 gr. of sugar. Combine the liqueur and the sugar-water, cover lightly and let infuse for 10 days more before filtering, bottling and sealing tightly.

© Daniel Rogov