Several years ago, when the French government decreed that smoking would be banned in restaurants, cafes and all other public places, Georges DuBoeuf merely laughed. One year ago, when the same government passed a law virtually outlawing the advertising of wine, DuBoeuf stopped laughing. DuBoeuf does not smoke. He is, however France's largest producer and broker of Beaujolais wines, and even though neither he nor anyone else seriously thinks the French are going to cut down very much on their smoking or wine consumption, the government was coming too close to his personal territory, and this was simply no laughing matter.

The area of Beaujolais, where DuBoeuf is widely acknowledged as the unofficial King, produces nearly 175 million bottles of wine annually. DuBoeuf himself is the producer and distributor of nearly 25 million of those bottles. More important, however, especially in the eyes of those who consider him "king", is the fact that DuBoeuf has a genius in his ability to judge wines, often before fermentation is completed and has such an unerring nose for the very best that his wines regularly win more gold medals in one season than most others wine in a lifetime. He also has a knack for marketing, and a large part of his honorary title comes from the fact that almost single-handedly he made Beaujolais-Nouveau into a worldwide phenomenon.

"The King"decided to take his revenge on the government, and, in order to promote wine has opened a Disney-style museum of wine. Called "Le Hameau du Vin" ("The Village of Wine"), and located next to his corporate base in the tiny village of Romaneche-Thorins (56 km. north of Lyon),the museum explores the wines of Beaujolais through a self-guided tour employing sophisticated audiovisuals, exhibits and tastings.

The comparison that some have made to Disneyworld and Eurodisney is more than coincidental. About ten years ago, chef Paul Bocuse, who is a good friend of DuBoeuf's, invited DuBoeuf to visit him at his getaway home in Orlando Florida. The two made a visit to neighboring Disneyworld (where Bocuse owns a restaurant), and DuBoeuf came away with a deep admiration of the Disney ability to entertain. Fortunately, as a recent visit to "The Village of Wine" demonstrated, DuBoeuf's wine museum is far more than a vulgar playground, and not merely an American slice of life that, like Eurodisney, has been transplanted in Europe. Meant to remind the French and the rest of the world tha wine is an important part of French heritage, the wine village is as educational and full of genuine French charm as it is entertaining.

The entrance to the "village" opens on a large plaza across the street from the 19th century Romaneche-Thorins railroad station. In a large hall, modeled after the Gare de Lyon in Paris, visitors purchase their tickets (FF 70 for adults, FF 20 for children) and then make their way through the village. One room houses an impressive and well-researched display that depicts the early history of wine and how it spread through the world. Separate adjoining rooms house a replica of a Roman ship that illustrates how wine was transported 2,000 years ago, and a large collection of wine tools and artifacts ranging from an assortment of antique corkscrews to crude corking machines and an enormous hand-powered wooden wine press. Among the best displays are those large glass cases that display, in cross section, the different soil types found throughout France and the corresponding varietals that grow best in each of them. Each case contains vines complete with their roots roots. A bit too kitchy for my taste was the explanation by marionettes, of the growing seasons of the vines.

As one continues there are collections of bottles, corks, and a barrel-making exhibition, a film on the relationship between wine and food and a multi-media exhibit of the science of winemaking. It almost goes without saying that one area within the museum is devoted entirely to more than 1,500 oak barrels, in which some of DuBoeuf's own wines are aging and that the last stop empties visitors into a shop where they can purchase a large selection of wines (nearly all of which carry the DuBoeuf name on the label), souvenirs, and books about wine.

DuBoeuf, who hopes to attract one million Frenchmen and an equal number of tourists to the wine village every year, has avoided the excesses, obvious phoniness and glitter of Eurodisney. He is correct in his assumption that the region of Beaujolais is a perfect stopover on the way from Paris to the Riviera. My own feeling is that the village will appeal to all but those who are already quite sophisticated in their wine knowledge. I would, however, ignore the advice of the many travel agents who are now suggesting a one day visit, merely to the museum. I suggest instead timing one's visit so that it incorporates a more leisurely trip through the countryside and vineyards of Beaujolais, stopovers at different vineyards and inns to sample the local wines, dining at some of the good inns and restaurants of the areas and a visit to the museum.

Dining in Beaujolais Country

The cuisine of Beaujolais is noted as much for its simplicity as for the use of the high quality raw materials that go into the different dishes that are prepared there. Some of the best known dishes of the region are based on the deer, rabbits and wild mushrooms that are found in abundance in the local woods. Equally well admired are the fish (especially the trout) caught in the local streams and the black truffles that are found in the oak forests.

The restaurants, brasseries and bistros throughout the area tend to be lower priced than one usually anticipates in France and to make them even more attractive, nearly all offer fixed price meals at both lunch and dinner. Following are some of my favorite dining places in the area, each of which is in or near one of the major wine raising communities.

Le Relais du Maconnais: in the town of La Croix-Blanche, 14 km. west of Macon on Route N 79. Telephone 85.36.60.72. If the lovely terrace and view of the view of the nearby mountains and river is not enough to enchant you, the cuisine of Christian Lannuel will certainly seduce you. Try especially his langoustines grilled with herbed butter; his veal steak with truffles; and, for dessert, his marvelous pastries. Prices are reasonable.

Au Rocher de Cancale: 393 quai Jean Jaures, Macon. Telephone 85.38.07.50. Set in a comfortable old house with a warm atmosphere, this is simple food at its generous best. My own favorites here are the hot sausages served with green lentils and the rabbit with ginger. Moderately priced.

Auberge des Sablons: on the main square of the village of Belleville-sur-Saone. Telephone 74.66.34.80. This small, exquisite auberge features marvelous coquilles de St. Jacques in cream sauce and fillet of fish in meuniere butter but my own favorite is the fillet of Charollais beef that is served with morille mushrooms. Moderate prices.

Faison Dore: Pont Beauregard, Villefranche sur Saone. Telephone 74.65.01.66. Ideal for lunch or dinner, the cooking of MichalCruz is always a simple but abundant delight. Try especially his duck terrine with truffles and pistachios; his sea food pot-au-feu; and his chicken with cream (Cruz uses only the finest chickens from Bresse). A la carte dining will cost between. Moderate - Expensive.

Le Coq au Vin: on Place Marche, in Julianas. Telepnone 74.04.41.98. This charming bistro offers excellent cuisine and an excellent selection of wines. Especially recommended are the chicken with pickled onions, veal chops with red and green peppers, the terrine of beef tail, and the chicken with cream sauce. Some say that the tarte tatin here is the best in all of France. Moderate - Expensive.

Les Maritonnes: in the village of Romaneche-Thorins. Telepnone 85.35.51.70. Whether you visit the "Village of Wine" or not, it is worth coming here to sit in the garden and enjoy the natural, comfortable and generous cuisine and the excellent selection of wines, many of which are served by the glass. Try especially the country-style terrine, the fricassee of chicken with morille mushrooms or the fillet of lamb that has been prepared with homemade cherry vinegar. Moderate-Expensive.

Auberge du Cep: Place Eglise, Fleurie. Telephone 74.04.10.77. A bit overpriced, but by far the best restaurant in the region, this charming establishment, which is situated in a large home, specializes in country-style dishes. Try especially the country style terrine which is accompanied by artichoke hearts and young onions a la greque and the young roast rabbit. After your main course, do not skip the platter of goats' cheeses that is offered. The restaurant is a bit overpriced, but the food is about the best you will find in the region. Expensive.

To read about the Wines of Beaujolais, click here.

© Daniel Rogov