Believe me, when one of my editors asked me to compile a list of the world's best ten kosher restaurants, I really tried. I searched through my diaries, my files and articles written over the last thirty years. Alas, building a list like this proved to be primarily an exercise in frustration. Happily, I did find ten superb restaurants, only one of which is usually associated with Jewish tradition and none of which has a kashrut certificate, but all of which prepare Passover appropriate meals for their Jewish clientele. Following are brief descriptions of those restaurants, every one of which is worth a special trip to visit at any time of the year regardless of whether one adheres to the kosher laws or not. I have also listed several dishes that will prove especially appropriate for the holiday of Passover.

Elizabeth on 37th: 106 East 37th Street. Savannah, Georgia. Elizabeth Terry is one of America's most exciting chefs and hers is a modern French cuisine with marked Southern overtones. Start off with the fresh trout and mushrooms in a gentle vinaigrette sauce, follow with an apple and squash soup with bits of fried foie gras, and go on to the succulent saddle of lamb with truffled mashed potatoes. Prices are moderate. Dinner reservations are required. Telephone 236-5547.

Tantris: Johann-Fichter-Strasse 7, Munich. Some say this is Germany's best restaurant. It is certainly its most expensive but if you're in the mood to spend a great deal of money for a fabulous meal you will not go wrong here. Try especially the fresh sea fish in tomato sauce, the quail in aspic, the leg of lamb with rosemary and basil or any of the veal dishes. Telephone 362-061.

Jaume de Provenca: 88 Provenca, Barcelona. Despite the relative simplicity of the dining room, the talents of chef Jaume Barges are so respected that this is the restaurant great French chefs visit when they are in Barcelona. Try the fish raviolis in piquant tomato sauce, the locus Romesco and the chicken in Cognac sauce. Expensive. Keep in mind that the only person who will get a table here without reserving in advance is the king of Spain. Telephone 430-0029.

Jasper's: 240 Commercial Street, Boston. Chef Jasper White uses traditional New England farm and seacost cookery for his inspiration but blends these nicely with touches of the Italian and Portuguese. His fish and corn chowder is so full of flavor that many order the dish as a main course. Be sure to try as well his magnificent veal in herbed tomato sauce. Prices are moderate. Telephone 617: 5231126.

La Perle du Lac: 128 rue de Lausanne (Parc Mon Repos), Geneva. This delightful restaurant overlooks the water of the lake. The candle- lit interior is lovely but, if the weather permits, be sure to take a table on the outdoor terrace. Specialties are fricassee of chicken, sea bass with mint and trout with sweet herbs. My own favorite here is the fillet mignon that is served with a mushroom mousse that has been prepared with basil. For dessert be sure to try an assortment of the sorbets which are among the best you will ever taste. Expensive. Telephone 731-79-35. Reservations required.

Stendahl: via San Marco at the corner of via Ancona, Milano. Located near the La Scala opera house, this luxurious restaurant is the ideal place for late night suppers. Among the best dishes here are the "frito misto", a mixed fry of various meats, the minestrone soup which is thick with rice, and the zuppa pavese (consomme with a poached egg).. Moderate prices. Reservations suggested. Telephone (02) 655-5587.

Quadri: Piazza San Marco, Venice. One of the most famous cafe-restaurants in the world, the luxuriously furnished Quadri is as widely known for its exquisite food as for its outrageous prices, but do not hesitate to take a table just for coffee, an aperitif and either a snack or a delicious cake. During the Passover holiday focus as much on the fine de siecle decor and superb service as the exquisite marinated quail and baked shoulder of veal that are offered. Telephone 5289299.

La Scala: in the Vienna Plaza Hotel, Schottenring 11, Vienna: Considering chef Werner Matt's talents, this may be the very best restaurant in town, and the al la carte meals, which cost between 400 and 700 shillings per person are very good value for money. For reasons I never fully understood, whenever he walks around he always has a small melon in his right hand, and often enjoys tossing it high in the air and then catching it. The maitre d'hotel told me that for several years everyone on the staff was terrified that one day the melon would land on the head of some innocent diner, but smiles with relief when he told me "but thank god, that has not happened .... yet". Try the mousse of foie gras, continue with the artichoke and asparagus soup, go on to the saddle of young deer in a blueberry sauce and then close with the apple parfait. Reservations required. Telephone 51 51 60.

Jo Goldenberg: 7 rue des Rosiers, Paris IV. It should be understood that Yiddish food does far more than please the palate. Jo Goldenberg, owner of what may be the most famous Jewish restaurant of them all observed that people come to his place and weep for joy. Goldenberg is known to exaggerate, but in this case he was probably right. Whatever else one says about it, the Yid- dish kitchen is the par excellence heartland of nostalgia. Concentrate on the chopped liver, pickled beef, Romanian kebabs and be sure to close with what may be the most fantastic apple strudel in the known universe. Telephone 48.87.20.16.

© Daniel Rogov