Few wine tastings have offered as many challenges as one that I did in my own home and two that I recently attended, the purpose of all three being to sample more than fifty kosher wines, none of which were produced in Israel. The company at the tastings away from home was convivial, the view of the Mediterranean sea was gorgeous, and even the waiters who arranged the blind tastings and served the wines were extraordinarily pleasant. I was especially impressed with multiple tastings of the wines of Baron Herzog, a California winery whose wines seem to improve every year and one of which was breathtakingly good (the first on the list that follows and the only one deserving a truly detailed review. Beyond that, however, what was missing were enough wines worthy of being taken seriously. In fact, so mediocre were most of the wines that they could be described with a maximum of four words. Following, are my very brief reactions to these wines. All are currently available in major American and English cities as well as throughout Israel.

One Great Wine

Herzog, Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexander Valley Special Edition, 1997: Exquisite. Smooth and rich, with intertwining layers of herb, currant and black cheries and hints of cranberries, blackberries and anise, this elegant and impressive wine has flavors that linger comfortably on the palate. Aged in new oak barrels for 18 months, the oak and the tannins are well integrated into what is a warm, supple and absolutely delicious wine. Imported only in small quantities but worth searching for. Drink now if you must but ideally hold for another 2 - 3 years. The wine sells for as much as $40 in the United States, and goes for about NIS 150 in Israel. Kosher.

The Rest
Starting With Herzog (California) and Baron Herzog (France)

Baron Herzog, Chenin Blanc, Clarksberg, 1998: Charming and full of life. Score 86.
Baron Herzog, Cabernet Sauvignon, California, 1998: Not complex but delicious. Score 85.
Baron Herzog, Chardonnay, California, 1998: Appealing, aromatic and lively. Score 84.
Baron Herzog, White Zinfandel, California, 1998: Light, fruity and pleasant. Score 84.
Baron Herzog, Zinfandel, 1998: Not complex but smooth and solid. Score 83.
Herzog, Cabernet Franc, Pays du Jardin de France, 1996: A fun little wine. Score 84.
Herzog, Merlot, Pays d'Oc 1998: A nice little wine. Score 83
Herzog, Syrah, Pays d'Oc, 1996. Drinkable but a bit watery. Score 83.

Carmel's Choice

Kosher wines produced for Carmel (known in Israel as Carmel-Mizrachi) in Australia, California, and Pays d'Oc.

Carmel's Choice, Chardonnay, Australia, 1999: Supple, appealing and nicely spiced. Score 85.
Carmel's Choice, Chardonnay, California, 1997: Lacking charm. Score 78
Carmel's Choice, Syrah, Pays' d'Oc, 1999: Spicy and aromatic but awkward. Score 82.
Carmel's Choice, Syrah, Pays d'Oc, 1998: Light but attractive. Score 82.
Carmel's Choice, Merlot, Pays d'Oc, 1999: Earthy and leathery. Score 82.
Carmel's Choice, Merlot, California, 1997: Growing weary. Score 80.
Carmel's Choice, Cabernet-Syrah, Pays d'Oc, 1999: Bright, spicy and fruity. Score 81.
Carmel's Choice, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pays d'Oc, 1999: Light and simple. Score 81
Carmel's Choice, Cabernet Sauvignon, California, 1998: Simple. Score 81.
Carmel's Choice, Cabernet Sauvignon, California, 1997: Too stingy. Score 79.
Carmel's Choice, Cabernet Sauvignon, California, 1996: Tired. Score 72.

Miscellaneous (In Alphabetical Order)

Barternura, Chianti, 1997: Simple and herbal. Score 80.
Bourgueil, Val de Loire, Pierre Chainner, 1995: Pleasant. Score 80.
Celliers des Dauphins, Coteau du Tricastin, 1997: Too simple. Score 80.
Chenet, Merlot, Pays d'Oc, 1998: Caramelized and sweet. Score 65.
Delagrave, Bordeaux, 1997: Straightforward and fruity. Score 82.
Domingo Rey, Cabernet Sauvignon, 1997 and Merlot, 1998: Light but acceptable. Score 81.
Edmond de Rothchild, Haut Medoc, 1993: A genuinely bad wine. Score 60.
Fortant de France, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pays d'Oc, 1997: Appealing. Score 85.
Fortant de France, Merlot, Pays d'Oc, 1998: Soft, smooth, pleasant. Score 85.
Fortant de France, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pays d'Oc, 1996: Growing tired. Score 83
Fortant de France, Chardonnay, Pays d'Oc, 1996: Fading rapidly. Score 83.
Chateau La France, Medoc, Cru Bourgeois, 1996: Bourgeois. Score 72.
Moulin des Sablons, Chinon, 1996: Truly terrible. Score 60.
Chateau Pouyanne, Graves, 1995: Tired and boring. Score 72.
Chateau La Reze, Minervois, 1996: Simple but appealing. Score 82.
Wente-Segal, Cabernet Sauvignon, California, 1996: Going downhill fast. Score 78.

© Daniel Rogov