The United States has always been a land of plenty. When John Knowles arrived in New England in 1622 he wrote in his diary that "even more than the many goodly groves of fruit trees and clear running streams, there are fowl in abundance, fish in multitude, deer aplenty and, besides, millions of doves which sit pecking of the full, ripe grapes. If this land be not rich, then is the whole world poor".

When American society was still in its nascent form, crops indigenous to the North America and hitherto unknown in Europe became the everyday fare of Americans. Cocoa, chocolate, potatoes, peanuts, tomatoes and a large variety of beans, sweet potatoes, squash and pumpkins were all available for the taking. The crop that proved most important to the settlers, however, was corn, the great staple of the Indians, the true Native Americans. Simple to grow in nearly all climates, and so easy to raise that it could be planted even among dead trees and stumps, corn became vital to the continuation and development of the land.

The somewhat bitter and nutty flavor of corn took some getting used to but once the settlers took to it there was no stopping their inventiveness. Cut from the cob at a young, milky stage and then stewed with beans and a bit of dog meat for flavor, corn kernels served as the base of the dish the Indians called succotash. The Pilgrims substituted beef for the dog and later expanded their repertoire by adding chicken, pork, diced turnips and other vegetables.

Corn was also used to make pudding and bread. In New England cornflour was mixed together with butter, eggs, spices and molasses to make Indian pudding. The Shakers, a religious sect as famous for their cooking as their faith, substituted maple syrup in the recipe. In other regional forms cornflour was combined with salt, water, fat, eggs and potatoes and baked in hot ashes, yielding up that treat known as cornbread.

The settlers could not live on corn alone, but this was no problem. Venison was so plentiful in the 1700s that people grew tired of it. Bear meat was also popular and said to be "savory and inclined to a flavor not unlike that of overripe beef". Even the fat of the bear served its purposes. The men of the towns used it slick back their hair, country folk rubbed their bodies with it to keep warm during the winter and in New Orleans it was used as a substitute for olive oil. Depending one where one lived, there were also plenty of ducks, beavers and wildcats. Salmon and sturgeon were so abundant that many were salted for use in the winter. Even the sweet meat of rattlesnakes was considered a delicacy.

Even though bear and beaver meat have fairly well passed out from the American culinary scene (except in Kentucky and Tennessee, where they remain popular among mountain people), many of the dishes that pleased the early settlers have, in one way or another become a lasting part of the national American diet. Americans will celebrate the anniversary of their independence on the 4th of July. Many of them will dine one or more of the following dishes, each of which was enjoyed by George Washington and Thomas Jefferson at a meal they shared the day after they signed the Declaration of Independence.

Corn Fritters

about 15 ears of fresh corn or 3 cups frozen corn kernels (do not use tinned)
2 egg yolks, well beaten
1 Tbsp. flour
1/4 tsp. salt
pinch of grated nutmeg
2 egg whites, beaten stiff
1/4 cup butter

Grate enough of the corn to make 3 cups. In a mixing bowl make a batter by combining the corn, egg yolks, flour, salt and nutmeg. When the mixture is smooth, fold in the beaten egg whites.

In a large heavy skillet melt the butter and let it heat just until it begins to turn brown. Add the batter, a tablespoon at a time, forming individual fritters. Cook until the fritters have browned on the bottom and then turn them over and brown the second side. Serve hot with maple syrup, honey or molasses. (Serves 4 - 6).

Spiced Shrimp

1 kilo shrimps, in their shells
1 clove garlic, halved
1/2 cup celery, chopped finely
1/4 cup olive oil
1/4 cup prepared horseradish
1 green onion, chopped finely
3 Tbsp. lemon juice
2 Tbsp. Dijon or other sharp mustard
1 Tbsp. chives, chopped
1/2 tsp. each salt, pepper and paprika
2 - 3 dashes Tabasco or more to taste
lettuce leaves for serving

Drop the shrimps into 8 cups of rapidly boiling salted water. Lower the flame and simmer just until the shrimps are pink (3 - 5 minutes) being sure not to overcook. Drain immediately and run under cold water. Shell the shrimps and place them in a mixing bowl which has been well rubbed with the garlic halves.

Mix together the remaining ingredients and pour this marinade over the shrimp. Refrigerate for 8 - 12 hours, stirring gently once or twice. Serve on well chilled lettuce leaves. (Serves 4 - 6).

Hashed Brown Potatoes

4 large potatoes
1/4 cup bacon drippings or rendered chicken fat
1 Tbsp. parsley, chopped
2 tsp. onion, chopped finely
1 tsp. lemon juice
salt and black pepper to taste
Tabasco sauce to taste

Cook the potatoes in a large amount of boiling water until they are almost cooked. Run under cold water, slice the potatoes very thinly and then cut each slice in quarters.

In a heavy skillet heat the bacon drippings. In a mixing bowl gently combine the remaining ingredients and when the fat is thoroughly hot spread the mixture over the skillet. Let fry about 2 minutes over a medium high flame and then turn so that the second side of the potatoes are cooked. Cook, turning with a spatula, until all of the potatoes are nicely browned. Serve immediately. (Serves 6).

Southern Fried Chicken

1/3 cup corn or peanut oil
1/2 cup dry white wine
1 clove garlic, minced
1/2 tsp. each celery salt, thyme and tarragon
1 1/2 tsp. each salt and black pepper
1 cup flour, sifted
2 Tbsp.butter, melted
3 egg yolks, beaten lightly
1 cup flat beer
2 chickens, about 2 1/2 kilos in all, cut into convenient serving pieces
1 medium onion, chopped finely
deep oil for frying

In a large bowl combine the cooking oil, wine, garlic, celery salt, thyme and tarragon and 1/2 tsp. each of the salt and pepper. Mix well and in this marinate the chicken, covered and refrigerated for 3 - 4 hours, turning the pieces several times.

In a separate bowl combine and mix the flour, remaining salt and pepper, melted butter and egg yolks. Gradually add the beer, stirring constantly. Let this batter stand, covered and refrigerated, for 3 hours.

Remove the chicken from the marinade and pat the pieces dry on toweling. Dip the pieces into the batter, coating well, and then place the pieces on a rack and let dry for 1 hour.

Preheat deep oil to 180 degrees Celsius and in this fry the chicken pieces until they are done (about 15 minutes). Drain on paper toweling and serve hot. (Serves 6).

Potato Salad

1 1/2 kilos new potatoes
1 cup dry white wine
1/2 cup crisply cooked bacon or fatty beef pastrami, crumbled
1 tsp. each salt and pepper
1 tsp. Dijon style mustard
1 cup celery, diced finely
1/4 cup carrot, chopped coarsely
1 cup spring onion, chopped coarsely
3/4 cup olive oil
1/4 cup parsley, chopped
juice of 1 large lemon
chives, chopped, for garnish

Wash the potatoes well and put them into a large amount of salted boiling water. Cook until the potatoes are just done when tested with a fork. Do not overcook. When done drain and run quickly under cold water. Peel and slice the potatoes.

In a large mixing bowl put the potatoes and pour the white wine over. Add the bacon, salt, pepper and mustard and then add the celery and carrot. Do not toss. Cover and let cool overnight in the refrigerator. Several hours before serving add the remaining ingredients, toss well and correct the seasoning with salt and pepper if necessary. Garnish with the chopped chives. (Serves 6 - 8).

Indian Pudding

6 Tbsp. cornflour
2 cups milk, cold
3 cups milk, hot
1 cup molasses
1/4 cup butter
1/2 tsp. each ground ginger and powdered cinnamon
2 eggs, well beaten
sweet cream, whipped cream or vanilla ice cream for serving

In a mixing bowl combine the cornmeal with 1 cup of the cold milk. Stir this mixture into the hot milk and place in the top of a double boiler. Over but not in hot water cook and stir the mixture until smooth. Continue cooking for 20 minutes after the mixture is smooth.

Remove from the heat and add the molasses, butter, cinnamon and ginger and then stir in the beaten eggs. Pour the mixture into a buttered casserole and over the top pour the remaining cold milk. Bake in a medium oven for about 1 hour. (The pudding will be done when a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean). Serve hot with whipped cream or vanilla ice cream. (Serves 6 - 8).

© Daniel Rogov