The greedy and scandalous Duchess of Berry, who was the favorite daughter of King Louis XIV, was a master of intrigue, lying and social manipulation. She employed spies to follow the activities of her women friends and, when she discovered who their lovers were, would arrange for their husbands to catch them in humiliating situations.

She encouraged her own lovers to embezzle money from the royal treasury and then encouraged others to inform on them and collect the reward money. She enjoyed making matches between rich women and poor men, and then convincing the women that the men had married them only for their money.

The Duchess invariably rewarded her own lovers by having them exiled to Germany or Russia. It is estimated that the Duchess was responsible for more than one hundred duels, twenty-five suicides and fifteen bankruptcies.

Despite the innumerable scandals of which she was found to be the cause, she remained a popular hostess, partially because her table was one of the most luxurious in all of France. At one dinner to which she invited two hundred and seventy guests, she served fifty-five different appetizers, twenty soups, sixty main courses and forty dessert courses. The meal lasted three days and one guest later wrote that "although one might say there was a bit too much to eat, no one could complain, for all that had been served was magnificent".

An accomplished cook, the Duchess devised the first recipe that follows on the occasion of her 40th birthday. The other is a dish that she particularly adored, always announcing to her guests that it originated in Rome during the days of the Caesars.

Shrimp Bisque Berry

2 kilos large shrimp, with the heads intact
1/2 tsp. salt
pinch or two of cayenne pepper (hot paprika)
4 ribs celery, chopped
1/2 medium carrot, diced
2 sprigs parlsey
1 sprig of fresh thyme (or 1/2 tsp dried thyme)
1/4 cup butter
2 Tbsp. onion, chopped coarsely
2 Tbsp. celery, chopped very finely
2 Tbsp. parsley, chopped very finely
1/2 cup bread crumbs
1 egg, beaten lightly salt and pepper to taste
1/4 cup onion, chopped finely
2 Tbsp. flour

If using real shrimp, wash them under cold running water and then soak them for 30 minutes in lightly salted water. Rinse well. Eliminate this step if using kosher shrimp.

Put the shrimp in a large saucepan. Sprinkle over the salt and cayenne pepper and pour over 8 cups of boiling water. Bring to a boil and then reduce the flame and simmer, uncovered just until the shrimps turn pink, about 5 - 6 minutes. Drain and reserve the stock.

Remove the shrimp from their shells and set the meat aside for later use. Return the heads and shells to the stock. Add the celery ribs, carrot, parsley sprigs and thyme and bring to a boil. Reduce the flame and let simmer, uncovered, for 30 minutes and then strain.

While the stock is simmering chop the shrimps coarsely. In a skillet melt half the butter and in this saute the coarsely chopped onion until the onions are translucent. Add the finely chopped celery and parsley and cook for 3 - 4 minutes, stirring constantly. Remove from the flame and add the shrimp and breadcrumbs. Mix thoroughly and then add the egg and salt and pepper to taste. Stir well.

In a skillet melt the remaining butter and in this saute the finely chopped onion. To this add 2 tablespoons of the flour and stir until the mixture is lightly browned. Add the fish stock slowly, stirring constantly, until smooth. Correct the seasoning with salt and pepper to taste. Stir and simmer for several minutes until completely hot. Serve at once. (Serves 6).

White Bean Soup

3 cups milk
1/2 cups almonds, ground coarsely
1/4 tsp. extract of bitter almonds
2 cups dried white beans
1/2 cup high quality vinegar
2 Tbsp. brown sugar
1 1/2 cups seedless raisins
1 cup dry white wine
1/2 cup honey

Combine the milk, almonds and almond extract in a small saucepan and simmer gently for about 10 minutes. Cover and let cool. Strain before using. (You will use only the liquids in this recipe, the ground nuts may be used for making cookies or cakes).

Soak the beans in cold water for about 1 hour. Drain, transfer the beans to a saucepan and cover with lightly salted water. Bring to a boil and immediately lower the flame. Simmer gently until the beans are tender (about 1 hour). Drain the beans, reserving the beans and liquids separately.

While the beans are simmering, pour the vinegar into a skillet. Heat through and then add the sugar, stirring until the sugar is completely absorbed. Add the raisins and cook over a low flame until the raisins have become plump. Drain the raisins, discarding the liquid.

In a clean saucepan combine the almond liquids, wine and honey. To these add the beans and simmer gently for 10 minutes. If the soup is too thick, thin with the liquid in which the beans were cooked. Correct the seasoning with salt and pepper to taste, add the drained raisins, simmer for 5 minutes longer and serve hot. (Serves 6 - 8).

© Daniel Rogov