In a recent book, Heidelberg University history professor Albert Werner suggests that Ludwig II of Bavaria was not deposed from his throne so much because he was insane but because his behavior "was embarrassing to those who thought their king should present himself in a more dignified manner". Ludwig was possessed by a psychotic lifelong passion for designing and building fairytale castles. He was also, as one of his generals wrote, "a man possessed of an unimaginable genius for making others feel ridiculous".

In his personal life as well as in the political sphere, Ludwig was taken to doing things on impulse. Theodor Hierneis, a cook at Ludwig's court described the king as a man of "unapproachable grandeur". Hierneis also wrote that "the whims of the king were enough to make any of us mad". Hierneis was referring to the frequent impulses which would make the king leave his residence in Munich and go off to one of his numerous palaces or hunting lodges in the Bavarian Alps. Since the king expected formal meals wherever he went, the kitchen staff was forced to precede him with "the necessary cooking utensils, tablecloths, linen napkins, and an entire service of fine China plates" and often had to work in primitive and makeshift surroundings.

Even mealtimes were erratic, for Ludwig sometimes rose for breakfast at about 6 in the afternoon, often took dinner at two in the morning and then had a light supper at 6 or 7 a.m. In addition to having to turn night into day the royal cooks also had to always prepare food for four, because even when Ludwig dined alone he imagined himself to be in the company of French kings. To further complicate matters, Ludwig insisted that all of his meals be served in the style of Louis XIV.

Ludwig enjoyed his meals but, because he had tooth trouble, his chefs had to create delicacies made of finely minced ingredients so that the king could enjoy them. On June 13, 1885, Ludwig dined in his favorite hunting cabins in the Tirol. The meal started off with a consomme with liver dumplings, hechtenkraut (a traditional favorite of German royalty) and trout with Hollandaise sauce. After a lemon sorbet, the king continued with chicken fricassee, a pate made from wild venison meat and peas. The desserts included fruits in wine jelly and vanilla ice cream with orange sauce. After dining, Ludwig complemented his servants on the quality of the meal.

One year later, after he had been declared insane and deposed from his throne, Ludwig drowned in a lake near the cabin he had once enjoyed so much. After all is said and done, it may be that Ludwig's major failing was that he behaved more like a romantic Wagnerian hero than a 19th century monarch.

Consomme with Liver Dumplings

5 slices white bread, with crusts, cut into dice
1 cup lukewarm milk
350 gr. calf's liver, with all membranes and blood vessels removed
50 grams kidney fat
1 small onion
2 eggs
1 tsp. salt
pinch of marjoram
rind of 1 lemon, grated
about 1 cup breadcrumbs
8 cups beef consomme (ideally homemade)

Soak the bread in warm milk for 15 minutes and then squeeze out the excess milk by hand. In a food processor or blender grind together the bread, liver, kidney fat and onion. Stir in the eggs, salt, marjoram and lemon rind and gradually add the breadcrumbs, a tablespoon at a time, until the mixture is firm enough to be shaped into dumplings, each about 4 centimeters in diameter. (The dumplings can be most easily made if the hands are wet).

Bring the beef consomme to a boil and into this gently drop the dumplings. Reduce to a low simmer and cook uncovered until the dumplings float to the top (15 - 20 minutes). Serve the dumplings in the soup. (Serves 6 - 8).

Hechtenkraut

1 kilo sole fillets
1 medium onion, sliced
2 stalks celery, with leaves
8 whole peppercorns
1/4 tsp. salt
12 slices bacon, diced
2 medium onions, chopped coarsely
1 cup dried breadcrumbs
1 1/4 kilos sauerkraut
1/2 cup butter
3 Tbsp. flour
1/2 cup sour cream
salt and paprika to taste
1/2 kilo shrimp, boiled and shelled

In a heavy saucepan with water to cover poach the sole fillets together with the sliced onion, celery, peppercorns and
1/4 tsp. of salt. When the fish is done (take care not to overcook it) remove it gently from the liquids. Strain and set aside the liquids.

In a large heavy skillet fry the bacon and in the fat saute the chopped onions until they are golden brown.

Butter a 6 cup souffle dish and with 1/4 cup of the breadcrumbs coat the bottom and sides. Place in a layer of 1/3 of the sauerkraut. Over this place a layer of half the onion-bacon mixture, and on this place a layer of half the fish. Repeat this process so that the final layer is of sauerkraut.

In a small saucepan melt 3 Tbsp. of the butter and into this stir the flour. Simmer, stirring regularly, over a low flame until the flour begins to brown and remove immediately from the heat.

Add enough water to the reserved liquids in which the fish were cooked to make 2 1/2 cups. Add these liquids to the butter and flour mixture, mix well and add the sour cream. Stir until the mixture is smooth and season with salt and paprika to taste.

Place the shrimp on top of the sauerkraut, pour over the sauce and sprinkle over with the remaining breadcrumbs. Dot with the remaining butter and bake in a medium-hot oven until the sauce is nicely browned and bubbling. Serve hot. (Serves 6).

5 slices white bread, with crusts, cut into dice
1 cup lukewarm milk
350 gr. calf's liver, with all membranes and blood vessels removed
50 grams kidney fat
1 small onion
2 eggs
1 tsp. salt
pinch of marjoram
rind of 1 lemon, grated
about 1 cup breadcrumbs
8 cups beef consomme (ideally homemade)

Soak the bread in warm milk for 15 minutes and then squeeze out the excess milk by hand. In a food processor or blender grind together the bread, liver, kidney fat and onion. Stir in the eggs, salt, marjoram and lemon rind and gradually add the breadcrumbs, a tablespoon at a time, until the mixture is firm enough to be shaped into dumplings, each about 4 centimeters in diameter. (The dumplings can be most easily made if the hands are wet).

Bring the beef consomme to a boil and into this gently drop the dumplings. Reduce to a low simmer and cook uncovered until the dumplings float to the top (15 - 20 minutes). Serve the dumplings in the soup. (Serves 6 - 8).

© Daniel Rogov