One of the great joys of my early adolescence was occasionally accompanying my parents to dine at "Monte's On The Park", then one of the very best restaurant in New York City. Several days after my thirteenth birthday, it was at this wonderful establishment that I first sampled the dish known as "lobster Thermidor". Then, as today, most people assume that the dish is part of the cuisine of France. Alas, despite its distinctly French overtones, lobster Thermidor was first served in 1897 at New York City's famous Delmonico's restaurant.

The United States has never seen a restaurant as eminently suited for the very, very rich as Delmonico's. In fact, the restaurant was so lively that men rarely took their wives there. So many upper class New Yorkers met their mistresses at Delmonico's that George, the headwaiter, kept a discreet note- book in his pocket so that he would not mistakenly place two members of the same family in the same dining room at the same time. Precisely why the now forgotten chef who invented the dish decided to name it after the 11th month of the French Revolutionary Calendar is unknown.

Unfortunately, making lobster Thermidor is so time consuming, complex and expensive that few restaurants serve it today. In fact, in the last five years I have found it only occasionally on the menus of Laperousse and Tour d'Argent in Paris and at the Ritz Hotels in London and Athens. Believe me, though, this is one of the greatest dishes ever invented and is worth every bit of effort and cash, and now that live lobsters are available locally, the most devoted gourmets will not hesitate to devote themselves to its preparation. The following recipe, adapted from Julia Child's Mastering the Art of French Cooking" is by far the best I have found.

Phase 1:

3 live lobsters, at least 900 grams each
3 cups dry white wine
1 each large onion, medium carrot, celery stalk, all sliced thinly 6 sprigs parsley
1 bay leaf 1/4 tsp. thyme 6 whole peppercorns
1 Tbsp. fresh or dried tarragon

Into a five liter stainless steel or enamel kettle or other large pot pour two cups of water, the white wine, vegetables, herbs and seasonings and simmer gently for 15 minutes. Bring again to a rolling boil and into this plunge the lobsters, head first. (Those with a humane nature will be glad to know that lobsters do not have a central nervous system and thus do not feel pain as we usually think of it. Those a bit queasy will find that it is acceptable to kill the lobster immediately before cooking by plunging the point of a knife into the space between the eyes). Cover and boil for about 20 minutes. When done, the shells of the lobsters will be bright red.

Phase 2:

1/4 kilo sliced fresh mushrooms
1 Tbsp. butter 1 tsp. lemon juice
1/4 tsp. salt

While the lobsters are cooking, melt the butter in a small saucepan over a low flame. Add the lemon juice and salt and then add the mushrooms. Cover and cook for 10 minutes.

When the lobsters are cooked, remove from the kettle. Pour the liquids in which the mushrooms were cooked into the lobster liquids and boil down rapidly until reduced to about 2 1/4 cups. Strain these liquids into a 4 cup saucepan and bring to a simmer. Reserve the mushrooms separately.

Phase 3:

5 Tbsp. butter
6 Tbsp. flour
1 Tbsp. sweet cream

While the liquids are simmering melt the butter in a saucepan, add the flower and cook over a low flame, stirring constantly without browning for about 2 minutes. Remove from the flame and beat in the simmering lobster liquids. Return to the flame, and bring to a boil, stirring constantly for 1 minute. Set aside, being sure to gently spread the sweet cream on the surface of the liquids.

Phase 4:

1 Tbsp, dry mustard
2 egg yolks
1/2 cup sweet cream
pinch or two cayenne pepper

Split the lobsters in half lengthwise, keeping the shell halves intact. Discard the sacks in the heads and the intestinal tubes. Rub the lobster coral and green matter through a fine sieve into a mixing bowl and blend into this the mustard, egg yolks, sweet cream and cayenne pepper. Beat the sauce into this mixture drop by drop.

Phase 5:

4 - 6 Tbsp. sweet cream

Return the sauce to the pan and string with wooden spoon bring to a boil and boil slowly for 2 minutes. Thin with tablespoons of sweet cream until the sauce is thick enough to coat the back of a wooden spoon. Taste and adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper. Film top with a spoonful of cream.

Phase 6:
5 Tbsp. butter
5 Tbsp. Cognac
1/2 cup Parmesan cheese, grated
extra butter as required

Remove the meat from the lobster tails and claws and cut into 3/4 inch cubes. Set skillet with butter over moderate heat. When the butter foam begins to subside, stir in the lobster meat and saute, stirring slowly, for about 5 minutes, until meat is nicely pink. Pour in the Cognac and boil for 1 - 2 more minutes, shaking the skillet until the liquid is reduced by half.

Fold the cooked mushrooms and 2/3 of the sauce into the skillet with the lobster meat. Arrange the split lobster shells in the roasting pan. Heap the lobster mixture onto the shells and cover with the remaining sauce, Sprinkle with cheese and dot with butter Note: The dish may be prepared ahead to this point and refrigerated.

To serve, place the lobsters in upper third of an oven that has been preheated to 210 degrees Celsius for 10 - 15 minutes, until lobster is bubbling and the surface of the sauce is nicely browned. Serve immediately on serving plates.

(Serves 3 or 6).

© Daniel Rogov