Located about 160 kilometers due south of Bordeaux, in the heart of Armagnac, this southwestern French AOC may lack the luxurious chateaux of France but is home to extraordinarily charming countryside. As the home of Cyrano de Bergerac, it is also an area packed with romance, small inns and small but excellent auberges. One French pundit wrote several years ago that "the red wine of Madiran keeps locals' arteries clear and hearts happy". With vineyards dating back to the first century BC, the wines of Madiran are often good enough that they do far more than that.

The area is said to have produced their first wines during the Gallo-Roman days. The probability is that those wines were not very good but, when Benedictine monks founded the Abbey of Madiran in the eleventh century, the wines took a distinct step up. However good they may have been though, nearly all of the wine produced in the district was consumed locally, and it was only in 1948 when Madiran was granted AOC status that the process of control over the quality of the grapes and the wines started making major strides.

The area is sometimes affectionately referred to as "the heart of darkness". There are two possible reasons for this "appelation" - the first and most likely because the locals harbor fond memories and myths of the Black Prince, who became prince of Acquitaine in 1360 and occupied the area. The second is because some of the wines are so dark in color. Whatever, the truth is that the reds are indeed dark, sometimes opaque in color and the region which is primarily renowned as a red wine appelation and the traditional grape used is tannat, the whites relying heavily on the Fer grape (also known as Pinenc) grape. Among other things that make the wines special are the rock-hard and iron rich chalky clay soils in which the red varietals are grown and the silica clay soil in which the whites grow. The soil in which the reds grow is so hard that it takes a pair of oxen to rip it up (in most of rural France this is done with a single horse) and to accommodate the oxen vines are planted more widely apart than one sees in most of Europe.

Focusing on the Grapes

The major red grape of the region remains Tannat, a varietal so sternly structured, astringent and high in tannins that it becomes clear from where its name derives. For many years the wines were made almost entirely from Tannat which meant that they needed long bottle aging before they were even approachable. Today, because many wineries blend their Tannat with up to 40% of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc (known in the area as Bouchy), the wines are approachable at an earlier age. Happily, many remain eminently cellar worthy. The reds tend to be full bodied and powerful, needing at least 2 - 3 years in the bottle to soften and many are typified by a bouquet of black fruits, roasted coffee and spices. Many of the wines can be cellared comfortably for 6 - 8 years, and a few for up to a decade.

Pacherenc de Vic Bilh, the white wine of the region is made from various blends of seven varietals -
Fer, Arrufiac, Petit and Gros Manseng, Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon and, to a lesser extent, Courbu. The whites, which are not as exciting, can be dry, semi dry or even sweet. All of the whites tend to have aromas of passion flowers, mangos and other tropical fruits and many have deep floral bouquets.
Although the dry whites should be drunk within a year after their harvest, the best sweet whites can cellar for 10 - 15 years.

As to food matches, the better Madiran wines prove excellent pairs to rich hearty foods such as boeuf en daube, cassoulet, boeuf Bourguignonne and even coq au vin. They are also well paired with wild boar, venison and stews containing mushrooms and eggplant. Woody Allen, hopefully only in jest once tasted one of these wines and observed that it would make a wonderful match to an elephant burger. The wines or Madiran have become well accepted throughout France, have found a healthy niche in the United Kingdom and are now starting to capture acclaim in North America.

Domaine Moureau, Chapelle l'Enclos, Madiran, 1997 and 1998: Firm, tannic and still closed but with inherently good balance and plenty of fruits that are starting to make themselves felt. As the wine opens (as it will even now in the glass), look for delicious red currant, plum, black cherry and cigar tobacco flavors and aromas. Drink now only if tannic wines are your passion, but give the '97 until 2002 - 2003 and the '98 until 2003 to start drinking. Both wines should store well until 2007 - 2008.
Remarkably reasonably priced in the U.S.A. at about $23. Score for both 92. (Tasted 22 Jan 2001)

Chateau Montus, Madiran Cuvee Presige, 1997: With delicious spice and coffee flavors and aromas and with plummy-tarry flavors that develop on the palate, this full bodied and highly tannic wine is made doubly charming because of flavors that linger and develop on the palate long after the wine has been swallowed. About $40 in the U.S.A. Drink now or until about 2004. Score 90. (Tasted 12 Feb 2000)

Chateau Bouscasse, Vielles Vignes, Madiran, 1997: Full bodied, concentrated and bursting with red currant, spicy and leathery aromas and flavors, this almost opaque and concentrated wine will drink well from 2002 - 2005. Score 88. (Tasted 12 Feb 2000)

Bonny Doon, Madiran, 1995: Made on a small Madiran estate by American winemaker Randall Graham (some call him the "wizard of Santa Cruz", this delicious blend has a charming rough and tumble character, with firm and almost burning tannins set off nicely by good red plum, wild berry and leathery flavors and aromas. Drink it now only if you enjoy pain, but let it open another year or two and you will find those tannins moderating nicely. Cellar until 2003 - 2004. Score 87. (Tasted 22 Apr 2000)

Domaine Moureau, Madiran, 1997: Not at all a prestigious domaine, but one that offers up consistently good wines since the early 1990's and best of all perhaps, at remarkably reasonable prices. In addition to red and black currants, plums and floral aromas and flavors this full bodied, classically "masculine" wine offers up firm, gripping tannins and abundant leather and cedarwood flavors. About $15 in the U.S.A. Drinking well now but the wine should store well until 2004 - 2005. Score 87. (Tasted 12 Feb 2000)

Chateau Bouscasse, Madiran, 1997: Plenty of plum and black cherry flavors here but with tannins that show no sign of moderating and far too many sweaty-leathery notes this wine fails to show signs of moderating or improving with time. Drink now if at all. Score 84. (Tasted 12 Feb 2000)

Chateau Peyros, Madiran, 1998: Medium bodied and fruity, with moderate tannins and lacking the depth of most Mediran wines, but pleasant drinking. Think of this one as a "Madiran ordinaire" if you like. Drink now. Score 80. (Tasted 16 May 2001)

© Daniel Rogov