There is the same mysterious gap between a musical scale and a Debussy prelude as between an egg and a souffle. -Jean-Anthelme Brillat Savarin

Everyone talks about souffles, but only the truest food snobs recognize the truth: the souffle is the culinary invention that represents the highest form of human endeavour. To understand this, imagine the solemn silence with which a table of Frenchmen greet the arrival of a souffle at their table. They might as well be in a cathedral. The air is heavy with anticipation, pulse rates are raised, breathing becomes shallow. The dish is placed in front of them. A sigh, more felt than heard, goes around the room, eyes glisten and nostrils flair. God is in His heaven and all's well with the world.

Not everyone gets this carried away when they talk about the souffle. To cookbook author Julia Child, a souffle is nothing more than "a sauce containing a flavoring into which stiffly beaten egg whites are incorporated. It is turned into a mold and baked in the oven until it puffs up and the top browns".

While no one is quite certain just who invented the souffle, it is universally acknowledged that it was a Frenchman. And the Frenchman who brought the souffle to its acknowledged status was the chef Beauvilliers. After serving as steward to the household of the Count of Provence and as Attache Extraordinary to the Royal Household, Beauvilliers wrote the encyclopaedic l'Art du Cuisinier, for nearly a hundred years the definitive work on cookery. In 1783, this great chef opened his own restaurant, the Grande Taverne de Londres at 26 rue de Richelieu in Paris. And no meal was ever served at the Grande Taverne that did not include a souffle.

Beauvilliers had a remarkable memory, one that made him an impressive host. He could recognize and welcome people by name even if he had not seem them for twenty years, and even if they had dined at his restaurant only once before. Brillat-Savarin, that ultimately charming philosopher of the culinary arts wrote that "once they had been seated, Beauvilliers would advise his clients on which dishes not to take up and which to snap up. He would order wine brought up from the vaults and then, as pompously as he had appeared, he would vanish into the depths of his kitchen, there to ponder on what souffle would best compliment the dinner being prepared." A little later", Brillat-Savarin observed, "the amount of the bill and the bitterness of paying it showed clearly that one had dined with a great restaurateur".

Despite rumours to the contrary, there is really nothing difficult about making souffles. The following hints will make your own efforts as foolproof as possible.

- Egg whites should be beaten by hand with a whisk or with an electric beater. Do not beat them in a food processor. Be sure that the bowl in which you beat the eggs is neither greasy nor damp. If the whites do not stiffen, add 1/4 tsp. of cream of tartar and continue beating.

- Once beaten, the egg whites should be stiff enough to form upright peaks when lifted on the wire of the beater.

- To bake souffles, preheat the oven to 200 degrees Celsius (400 Fahrenheit). Place the souffle on a rack in the center of the oven and, as soon as you put the souffle in the oven reduce the temperature to 190 degrees Celsius (375 Fahrenheit).

- When a souffle is done it will have risen 5 - 8 cm. (2 - 3 inches) over the rim of the mold and will be browned on top. To test for doneness, plunge a thin knife into the center through the side of the puff. When the knife comes out clean, the souffle is done.

- A well cooked souffle will stay puffy for about 5 minutes if left it in the turned-off oven. As it cools it will begin to sink, so serve the souffle as soon as possible.

Unless otherwise noted, each of the following recipes will serve 4.

Broccoli Souffle

butter and flour (to prepare the souffle dish)
1/2 kilo fresh broccoli, cooked until tender
1/4 cup butter
1 Tbsp. flour
1/2 cup each milk and sweet cream
salt and pepper to taste
pinch of nutmeg
6 eggs, separated
2 Tbsp. Gruyere or Emmenthal cheese
2 Tbsp. bread crumbs

Generously butter a 2 1/2 pint (1 1/2 liter) souffle dish and then dust the interior with flour.

Drain the broccoli, rinse with cold water and drain again. Squeeze out the excess liquid by hand and then chop the broccoli finely with a knife.

In a saucepan melt half the butter. To this add the broccoli and stir over a medium heat until dry.

In a separate saucepan melt the remaining butter and into this whisk the flour. Cook over a low flame, whisking constantly, until the mixture begins to bubble. Remove from the flame and whisk in the milk and cream. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Add the nutmeg and bring to a boil, whisking constantly. As soon as a boil is obtained, reduce the flame and simmer gently for 2 - 3 minutes. Stir in the broccoli, heat through and remove from the flame.

Lightly beat the egg yolks and then beat them into the hot broccoli mixture. Keep in mind that the mixture should be highly seasoned and correct the seasoning. (To this point the souffle may be prepared several hours in advance if the surface is now rubbed with a pat of butter, covered and refrigerated).

Half an hour before serving whip the egg whites until stiff. Heat the broccoli mixture, stirring constantly, until just hot to the touch. Remove from the heat and mix in about 1/4 of the stiff egg whites. Add this mixture, with all but 2 tsp. of the cheese to the remaining egg whites, folding together gently. Spoon the mixture into the prepared souffle dish and sprinkle over with the bread crumbs and remaining cheese. Bake as instructed (see hints, above) until the souffle has risen and browned (12 - 15 minutes). If the top begins to brown too quickly cover with aluminum foil. Serve immediately.

Cheese Souffle

butter and flour (to prepare the souffle dish)
1 cup butter
1/4 cup flour, sifted
salt and pepper to taste
1/2 tsp. dry mustard
dash Tabasco sauce
1 1/2 cups milk
125 gr. Gruyere, Emmenthal or sharp cheddar cheese, grated
8 eggs, separated

Generously grease the bottom and sides of a souffle dish with butter and then coat the buttered surfaces with a dusting of flour. Preheat the oven to hot.

In a double boiler over boiling water melt the butter and to this add the flour, salt, pepper, mustard and Tabasco. Mix well and gradually stir in the milk. Cook, stirring constantly, until the mixture thickens. Into this slowly add the cheese, stirring regularly until well melted and the mixture is uniform. Remove from the heat.

Beat the egg yolks until light and gradually pour these into the cheese sauce. (Note: To this point the souffle may be prepared several hours in advance if the surface is dabbed with butter, covered and refrigerated).

Beat the egg whites until stiff. If the cheese mixture has been prepared in advance reheat it to the point where it is hot to the touch and then fold it into the egg whites. Pour the mixture into the souffle dish and bake as instructed (see hints, above) until the souffle has risen and browned (about 12 - 15 minutes). Serve immediately. (Serves 6).

Salmon Souffle

1/4cup butter
1 Tbsp. Parmesan cheese, grated
2 Tbsp. shallots or green parts of spring onions, chopped finely
3 Tbsp. flour
1 cup milk, boiling hot
1/2 tsp. salt pinch or two of pepper
1 Tbsp. tomato paste
1/2 tsp. oregano
4 egg yolks
1/2 cup tinned salmon, shredded
1/2 cup Gruyere or Emmenthal cheese
5 egg whites, beaten stiff with
1/4 tsp. cream of tartar

With about 2 tsp. of the butter, butter the mold and sprinkle with the Parmesan cheese.

In a large saucepan melt the remaining butter and in this saute the shallots for about 1 minute. Add the flour and cook for 2 minutes longer, stirring constantly. Remove from the flame, beat in the milk and then add the salt, pepper, oregano and tomato paste. Bring the mixture to the boil and let boil, stirring constantly, for 1 minute.

Again remove from the flame and beat in the egg yolks one at a time. Beat in the salmon and all but 2 tsp. of the Gruyere cheese. Stir 1/4 of the beaten egg whites into the mixture and then fold in the remaining egg whites. Transfer the mixture to the mold and sprinkle over with the remaining cheese. Bake as instructed (see hints, above) for 30 minutes in all. Serve immediately.

Mushroom Souffle

5 Tbsp. butter
3/4 cup Cheddar or Parmesan cheese. grated finely
250 gr. very small fresh mushrooms
1/2 small onion, chopped finely
juice of 1/4 small lemon
2 Tbsp. dry Sherry
6 Tbsp. flour
1 cup milk
1 tsp. salt
1/2 tsp. black pepper pinch of nutmeg
2 Tbsp. sweet cream
1 Tbsp. parsley, chopped
4 eggs, separated + 1 egg white

With 1 Tbsp. of the butter coat 4 small souffle dishes of 1 1/2 cups capacity each and coat with finely grated Parmesan cheese.

In a saucepan melt 2 Tbsp. of the remaining butter, add the mushrooms, onions, lemon juice and sherry and cook gently for 5 - 6 minutes. Uncover and continue to cook until the liquids have evaporated.

In a separate saucepan combine the flour, remaining butter and milk and whisk these together over a gentle flame until the sauce is thick and smooth. Add the salt, pepper, nutmeg, parsley and cream and simmer gently for 3 - 4 minutes, stirring constantly. Remove from the flame and stir in all but 1 Tbsp. of the remaining cheese, the egg yolks and the mushroom mixture.

Add a pinch of salt to the egg whites and whisk until stiff. Stir 1/4 of the egg whites into the sauce and then gently fold in the rest. Turn the mixture into the individual souffle dishes and sprinkle the surface of each with the remaining cheese. Transfer to an oven that has been preheated to 200 degrees Celsius (400 Fahrenheit), and bake until the tops are richly brown (15-18 minutes). Serve immediately.

Liqueur Souffle

2/3 cup sugar
8 egg yolks, lightly beaten
1/2 cup Grand Marnier, Bendeictine, Chartreuse or Creme de Cacao
10 egg whites
1/4 tsp. cream of tartar
butter and sugar (to prepare the souffle dish)

In a double boiler, over but not in hot water, beat together the sugar and egg yolks until the mixture is smooth and forms a broad ribbon as it runs from a lifted spoon. Add the liqueur and immediately transfer the mixture to a bowl over ice and there continue to beat until the mixture is cooled.

In a separate bowl combine the egg whites and cream of tartar and beat until stiff but not dry. Fold the egg yolk mixture into the beaten whites and then transfer the mixture to an 20 cm. souffle dish that has been well greased and then dusted lightly with sugar. Bake as instructed (see hints, above) until done (12 - 15 minutes). Serve at once. (Serves 6 - 8).

Orange Souffle

3 Tbsp. softened butter
1 cup sugar
3 tbs. sifted flour
3/4 cup milk
the peel of 1 orange, grated
4 egg yolks
5 egg whites
pinch of salt
2 tsp. vanilla extract
1/2 cup Cointreau, Grand Marnier or Curacao
1 Tbsp. confectioners' sugar

With about 1/2 Tbsp. of the butter grease the inner surface of a 6 cup mold. Sprinkle 2 Tbsp. of the sugar over the surface and roll around to coat the sides and bottom evenly. Knock out the excess sugar.

In a saucepan beat together the flour with several 3 Tbsp. of the milk. Pour in the rest of the milk and 6 Tbsp. of the sugar and beat together well. Cook over a moderately high flame, stirring constantly, until the mixture thickens and comes to a boil. Boil, continuing to stir, for 30 seconds. Remove from the flame and beat for 2 minutes longer. Add the grated orange peel and beat in.

Drop one of the egg yolks into the center of the sauce and immediately beat the yolk into the sauce. Continue until each of the egg yolks has been beaten in. Beat in 1Tbsp. of the butter and with a rubber scraper clean the sauce off the sides of the pan. Dot the top of the sauce with the remaining butter and let stand.

In a mixing bowl beat together the egg whites and salt until light peaks are formed. Sprinkle over with the remaining sugar and beat again until stiff peaks form.

Into the sauce beat the vanilla and liqueur and then fold in the stiff egg whites. Transfer the souffle mixture into the prepared mold, leaving a space of at least 3 cm. between the top of the souffle and the rim of the mold. Bake as instructed (see hints, above) When the souffle has begun to rise and brown (about 12 minutes) sprinkle over quickly with the confectioners' sugar. Continue baking until the souffle is well browned (about 10 minutes longer). Serve immediately.

Apricot Souffle

3 Tbsp. butter
3 Tbsp. flour
1 cup milk, scalded
1 cup apricots, cooked and pureed
4 egg yolks
2 Tbsp. kirsch liqueur
6 egg whites, beaten stiff together with 1/4 tsp. salt
6 Tbsp sugar

In a large heavy saucepan melt the butter. To this add the flour and cook, stirring constantly, for 3 minutes without browning. Pour the scalded milk into the mixture, stirring briskly and then simmer 4 - 5 minutes. Let cool.

Add the apricots to the mixture and then, one at a time, beat in the egg yolks. Add the kirsch to the mixture and then fold in the stiff egg whites. Pour the mixture into a 6 cup souffle mold which has been well buttered and sprinkled with sugar and bake as instructed (see hints, above) for 20 minutes. Sprinkle with the sugar and bake for 10 minutes longer. Serve immediately.

Strawberry Souffle

1/2 cup each orange juice and Cointreau liqueur
1 Tbsp. lemon juice
1/2 cup milk
1 vanilla bean
3 Tbsp. each butter and flour
4 egg yolks
6 egg whites, beaten stiff together with 1/4 tsp. salt
2 cups strawberries, sliced
6 Tbsp. sugar

Into a small bowl with the strawberries pour over the Cointreau, orange juice and lemon juice. Stir well and let stand for 1 hour. Pour 1/2 cup of the liquids into a separate container and reserve.

In a small saucepan combine the milk and reserved liquids. Add the vanilla bean. Bring slowly to the boil and let scald for several seconds. Remove from the flame and discard the vanilla.

In a large heavy saucepan melt the butter. To this add the flour and cook, stirring constantly, for 3 minutes without browning. Pour the scalded milk into the mixture, stirring briskly and then simmer 4 - 5 minutes.

Into the butter and flour mixture pour the milk mixture and then beat in the egg yolks, one at a time. Fold the egg whites into the mixture.

Place the berries in the bottom of a souffle dish and over these pour the extra liquids. Cover with the souffle mixture and bake as instructed (see hints, above) for 20 minutes. Sprinkle over with the sugar and bake about 10 minutes longer. Serve immediately.

© Daniel Rogov