Several years ago, a representative of a large food producing company asked me why I hated soup powders. I replied that I did not hate them, but that I felt that they had no place in the kitchen of anyone who takes pride in the soups, stews, sauces or other dishes they are going to serve. The simple truth is that the flavor of many of the best dishes and sauce we prepare results largely from the stock used in its cooking and flavoring and nothing is as good as a home made stock. So highly do the French value stocks that they are called fonds de cuisine, which means literally the foundation and working capital of the kitchen. Using powdered soup mixtures to make stocks, soups or sauces is something akin to comparing a the value of a 1965 Volkswagen to that of a 1999 Rolls Royce.

Stocks are the liquids obtained from the simmering together of meat, poultry, bones or fish trimmings with vegetables, seasonings and water. These liquids, strained and boiled down to concentrate their flavor, is the basis for fine soups, the moistening element for stews, braised meats or vegetables, and the liquid used in making all of the sauces that have a meat or fish flavoring.

Contrary to what giant food producing companies would have us believe, stocks are extremely easy to make, so long as one follows a few basic rules. They can simmer quietly by themselves with little or no attention from the cook; they may be frozen and stored for weeks or months; and they can be boiled down until all of their water content has evaporated and become a glace de viande or flavor concentrate.

Frankly there are no substitutes for home made stocks. Even though they can be used in emergencies, tinned beef stock or consomme tends to be too sweet; tinned chicken stock tends to be far too salty; and bouillion cubes and soup powders often contain so much salt and so many artificial ingredients that one wonders whether they would not be more suitable as additives to our automobile engines than to our stomachs.

The most luxurious stocks are made from fresh soup bones, fresh meat and fresh vegetables and herbs. It is thus a good idea to collect in the freezer whatever leftovers or scraps and bones remain from beef, veal and chicken dishes. When a sufficient amount has accumulated, and when at one's convenience one can make a stock.

The recipe that follows immediately is for a simple meat or chicken stock. The rules given should also serve as a master recipe for the making of many other stocks.

A Master Recipe For Stock-Making
Simple Meat or Chicken Stock
Fonds de Cuisine Simple

This recipe provides a general formula for that will yield a simple stock based on a collection of bones and meat scraps. Although the stock can be made from bones alone, it will have more character if some meat is included: the ideal proportions are about half and half. This stock may be employed for use in meat sauces, braising of meats and vegetables, flavoring of soups or deglazing a roasting pan. All of the variations for traditional recipes for classic stocks made with fresh ingredients are simmered in exactly the same way as in this recipe.

3 liters of meat and bones, chopped into 5 - 8 cm. pieces (use raw or cooked veal or beef bones and meat and/or poultry carcasses)
2 tsp. salt
2 medium carrots, scraped
2 medium onion, peeled
2 medium celery stalks
2 leeks, washed well
1 bouquet garni for stock (see note, following)

Place the meat and bones in a kettle large enough to hold 8 -10 liters. Pour cold water over to cover the meat and bones by 5 cm. Place over a moderate heat. As the liquid comes slowly to the simmer scum will start to rise. Remove it with a spoon or ladle until it almost ceases to accumulate.

Add the remaining ingredients and pour in more water so that the liquid covers the ingredients by 3 - 4 cm. When the liquid is simmering again, skim as necessary. Partly cover the kettle, leaving a space of about 2.5 cm. for the steam to escape. Maintain the liquid at a very quiet simmer for 4 - 5 hours, skimming off accumulated fat and scum periodically. If the liquids evaporate below the level of the ingredients, add boiling water.

Important Tips

When making stock never allow the liquid to boil (Fat and scum incorporate themselves into the stock if it boils, thus making it cloudy).

Cooking of a stock can be stopped at any time and continued later.

Never cover the kettle airtight until its contents have cooled completely or the stock will turn sour.

There are two methods for degreasing a stock. The simplest, which is ideal for making stock in advance, is to let the stock cool and to place it uncovered in the refrigerator until the fat has hardened on the surface and can be scraped off. The other method, useful when you want to use the stock immediately, is to let the stock settle for five minutes and then to remove as much of the fat as possible from the surface with a spoon or ladle. Afterwards draw scraps of paper toweling over the top of the stock to blot up the last globules or fat.

Before using the stock, taste it for strength. If the flavor is too weak, boil it down (after stock has been degreased it may be boiled with no ill effects) to evaporate some of the water con- tent and to concentrate the flavors. Correct the seasoning with salt and pepper to taste and the stock will be ready for use. ready for use or storage.

Storage Notes: When the stock is cold, cover and refrigerate it or put it into small tightly sealed containers and freeze it. Stock kept in the refrigerator should be brought to the boil every 3 - 4 days to keep it from spoiling. (Yields 2 - 3 liters).

Bouquet Garni For Stocks

All stocks are made richer by the use of herbs and spices. To make a bouquet garni appropriate for all of the recipes in this article, simply tie together in a muslin cloth 6 sprigs parsley, 2 sprigs thyme (or tsp dried thyme; 1 bay leaf; 2 unpeeled garlic of cloves and 2 whole cloves.

White Stock - White Veal Stock
Fonds Blanc

This stock is used to make fine white veloute sauces or soups. Keep in mind that raw veal can release large amounts of gray and granular scum that can cloud the stock if not completely removed. The easiest way to eliminate this problem is to blanch the veal as described in first step of the recipe below.

1.5 kilos lean, raw veal shank meat (cut from the lower part of the legs)
2 kilos cracked, raw veal bones
vegetables, bouquet garni and seasonings as in the master recipe

Place the meat and bones in a kettle. Cover with cold water, bring to the boil and boil slowly for 5 minutes. Drain and rinse the bones and meat under cold water to remove all the scum. Rinse the kettle clean.

Return the bones and meat to the kettle, cover with cold water, bring to the simmer and skim as necessary. As in the master recipe, Add the vegetables, herbs and seasonings and simmer for 4 - 5 hours or longer, all as described in the master recipe. Yields 2 - 3 liters.

White Poultry Stock
Fonds Blanc de Volaille - 1

This stock is used for soups and sauces and is made by exactly the same methods and ingredients as for white veal stock, but with the addition of a whole chicken or chicken parts to the kettle at the same time that the vegetables are added. The chicken can be removed when tender and set aside for use in other recipes.

Brown Stock
Fonds Brun

This stock is used for making brown sauces and consommes and for braising vegetables and red meats. To give the stock a good color, the meat bones and vegetables are browned before they are added to the kettle. Otherwise, the cooking procedure is the same as in the master recipe.

1 1/2 kilos beef shank meat
1 1/2 - 2 kilos cracked beef and veal bones
2 carrots, washed and quartered
2 onions, peeled and halved
2 tsp. salt
2 celery stalks with leaves discarded
1 bouquet garni for soup

Arrange the meat, bones and vegetables in a shallow roasting pan and place these on the center shelf of an oven that has been pre- heated to 235 degrees Celsius. Turn the ingredients occasionally so that they will brown evenly, and bake for 30 - 45 minutes.

Remove from the oven and drain the fat out of the roasting pan. Transfer the browned ingredients to an 8 - 10 liter soup kettle,. Pour a cup or two of water into the pan in which the bones were browned, set over a moderate heat and scrap up all of the coagulated browning juices. Pour these into the kettle and then follow the procedure in the master recipe, covering the ingredients with cold water, bringing to the simmer and skimming. Add the salt, celery and bouquet garni and proceed with the recipe, simmering for 4 - 5 mour hours. (Yields 3 - 4 liters).

Brown Poultry Stock
Fonds Brun de Volaille

Because this stock is used primarily for adding character to sauces there is no need to make it in large quantities.

1 each chicken neck, gizzard, heart and miscellaneous scraps
1 1/2 Tbsp. rendered fresh pork fat or cooking oil
1 onion, sliced
1 carrot, sliced
1 1/2 Tbsp. rendered fresh pork fat or cooking oil
2 cups of any white or brown stock
3 sprigs parsley
1/2 bay leaf

Chop the chicken into pieces of about 4 cm. or less. In a large skillet heat the rendered fat or oil and in this brown the chicken pieces and vegetables. (Do not brown in oven as this will make the chicken bones bitter). Pour out the fat, add the stock, parsley and bay leaf and enough water to cover the chicken pieces by 1 cm. Simmer partly covered for about 1« hours, skimming as necessary. Strain and degrease and the stock is ready for use. (Yields about 1 cup).

White Chicken Stock - 2
Fonds Blanc de Volaille - 2

Make as for brown chicken stock but do not brown the ingredients and use white stock.

Chicken Stock for Soup

1 chicken or 1 1/2 kilos chicken bones and, wings, necks and gizzards (do not use the liver)
1 onion
2 stalks celery, chopped
2 carrots, quartered (optional)
1 bouquet garni for stock
10 whole peppercorns
2 cloves garlic
salt to taste

Place the chicken in a large pot and pour over boiling water to cover. Let stand for 2 minutes and then drain.

Return the chicken to the pot, add all of the remaining ingredients and pour over 3 liters of cold water. Over a medium flame bring to a simmer and then lower the flame so that the water will simmer gently for 2 - 3 hours, skimming occasionally and making sure the liquids do not return to the boil. Add water only if the chicken or bones become uncovered.

When finished cooking, cool the stock quickly by plunging the pot into a sink of cold running water and then strain through a muslin cloth or sieve and season to taste with salt and pepper. (Yields about 1 liter of stock). (If you have used a whole chicken to make this stock, the meat can be used afterwards for various cold dishes and hot dishes such as croquettes).

In The Italian Style

Because so many Italian dishes are made by slowly boiling meat (as in the dish known as bollito), many Italian cooks have learned that they can simply save the broth in which the meats were boiled, straining it, letting it cool, degreasing it and then using it as stock. The meat must be cooked for three hours, so keep in mind that if you are using a brisket or short ribs that the meat can then be eaten. On the other hand, if using meats that require shorter cooking times, it will be cooked out and useless by the time the stock is ready and have to be discarded.

750 gr. uncooked beef (ideally brisket or short ribs)
3 liters of water
1 Tbsp. coarse salt
1 medium carrot, scraped
1 small red onion, peeled
1 rib celery
5 sprigs parsley, leaves only
1 small ripe tomato or 2 ripe cherry tomatoes

Place the meat and coarse salt in a large stockpot and pour over 3 liters of cold water. Over a medium flame bring the contents just to the boil and then immediately lower the flame so that the stock can simmer very slowly for 3 hours, half covered. Skim the surface from time to time.

Remove the meat from the stockpot and strain the stock through a muslin cloth or fine sieve into a large bowl. Degrease according to the instructions in the master recipe. (Yields about 3 liters of stock).

Vegetable Stock

3 onions, chopped
3 Tbsp. butter
the white and pale green part of 2 leeks, washed and chopped
2 carrots, chopped
2 ribs of celery, chopped
125 gr. mushrooms
1 cup potato peelings
1/4 cup lentils
6 unpeeled garlic cloves
1/2 tsp. black peppercorns
1/2 tsp. dried thyme, crumbled
1 bay leaf
12 parsley sprigs
1 tsp. salt

In a kettle melt the butter and in this cook the onions over a medium heat, stirring until the onions are golden. Add the leeks, carrots, celery, mushrooms, potato peelings and 1/3 cup of water and simmer the mixture, covered, stirring occasionally, for 5 minutes

Add 12 cups of cold water, and then add the remaining ingredients. Bring the mixture to a boil and simmer, uncovered, for 2 hours. Strain the stock through a fine sieve into a bowl and let it cool. Chill the stock and remove the fat. (Yields about 9 cups).

FROM STOCK TO CONSOMME, GLAZE AND ASPIC

Consomme is nothing more than stock that has been clarified so that it is clear and sparkling. The two "tricks" in clarification are to ensure that the stock has been very well degreased and that it never comes to a boil during the clarification process.

4 cups stock, well degreased and cooled
1 egg white, lightly beaten
the crumbled shell of the egg

After the grease has been spooned off the surface of the stock, remove whatever fat that remains by skimming the surface with absorbent paper toweling.

In a saucepan combine the stock, egg and egg shell. On the lowest possible flame, and without stirring, bring the mixture to a bare simmer, making absolutely sure that a boil is not attained. Continue this gentle simmer for 10 - 12 minutes. Very gently remove from the flame and let cool for 30 - 45 minutes. Do not remove the scummy crust that has risen to the surface.

Soak a muslin cloth in hot water, wring it out well and suspend it over another saucepan. Push the crust gently away from one side of the pan holding the stock and slowly pour the stock onto the cloth so that it filters into the clean saucepan. Cool, uncovered and then store, tightly covered and refrigerated. (Yields about 4 cups).

MEAT GLAZE
Glace de Viande

Meat glaze is made by boiling down any of the preceding stocks of the preceding stocks until it has reduced to a syrup that becomes a hard jelly when cold. Three quarts of stock will reduce to 1 1/2 cups or less of glaze, so glazes are easily stored.

Half a teaspoon of glaze stirred into a sauce or soup will give it a remarkable boost of flavor and neat glaze dissolved in hot water may be used in place of stock. A most useful commodity to have on hand, meat glaze always has a far better flavor than commercial meat extracts, powders or bouillon cubes.

To make a glaze start with 2 - 3 liters of any home made stock. Strain the stock through clean muslin to degrease it thoroughly and then bring to the boil in an uncovered saucepan. Boil very slowly until the stock has been reduced to about 1 liter. Strain through muslin or a very fine sieve into a smaller saucepan and continue to boil down until it is reduced to a syrup thick enough to coat the back of a spoon, being very careful during the final stages to be sure it does not burn. Strain into a jar. When the liquids are cool and have turned into a jelly cover and refrigerate or freeze.

Refrigerated glaze will last for 2 - 3 weeks. If a few spots of mold develop, no harm is done. Simply pry the glaze out of its jar, wash under cold water and simmer in a saucepan over a low heat with a tablespoon of water until again reduced to a thick syrup. Frozen glaze can last for 4 - 6 months.

Jellied Stock -
Aspic Gelee

Calfs' feet and veal knuckles contain a great deal of natural gelatin, and when 1/2 kilo of them are simmered together with any of the previous stocks are quite adequate to make 2 - 3 liters of stock jell by itself.

If using calf's feet, make sure the butcher cleans and skins them. Scrub the feet with cold water, soak for 8 hours in several changes of cold water. Cover with fresh cold water, boil for 5 minutes and then now wash under cold running water. The feet are now ready for use and are added to whatever stock you are preparing at the same time you add the vegetables.

If using cracked veal knuckles, cover the knuckles with cold water, bring to the boil and boil for 5 minutes. Wash under cold water and add to the stock at the same time you add the vegetables.

Some chefs and cooks prefer to make aspics by first making regular stock and then adding commercially prepared gelatin in the following proportions:

For jellied soup use 1 envelope (8 grams) of gelatin for every 3 cups of liquid.
For aspics or for decorating cold dishes: 1 envelope (8 gr.) of gelatin for every 2 cups of liquid.
For lining a mold: 1 envelope (8 gr). for every 1« cups of liquid.

To use powdered gelatin, sprinkle 8 gr. of gelatin into 1/2 cup of cold stock and let it soften for 3 - 4 minutes. Then blend it into the rest of the stock and stir over a moderate heat for several minutes until the gelatin has completely dissolved and the liquid is free of granules.

To Flavor a Jellied Stock or Consomme with Wine

The alcoholic beverages almost always used to flavor jellied consomme or stock are Port wine, Madeira wine or Cognac. Using 1 - 2 Tbsp. per cup of liquid, stir the wine or cognac into the hot stock after the gelatin has dissolved. (If flavoring a consomme that has been jelled with the use of meat bones, add the wine or cognac only after the clarification process has been completed and then bring to the boil for several minutes.

White Wine Fish Stock
Fume de Poisson au Vin Blanc

Because the flavor of fish bones and fish are extracted more rapidly than with fowl or other meats, not all of the rules given in the master recipe for stocks apply. Used with the ingredients listed this stock will serve as the basis for a rich fish veloute sauce. By reducing the amount of fish by half, the stock will be light and suitable for poaching fish or for use in fish soups.

1 kilo fresh fish, fish heads and/or bones and trimmings (can use frozen fish or cooked shellfish leftovers)
1 onion, thinly sliced
6 - 8 stems parsley - without leaves
1 tsp. lemon juice
1/4 tsp. salt
1 cup dry white wine or 2/3 cup dry white vermouth
1/4 cup fresh mushroom stems (optional)

Place all of the ingredients in saucepan that holds about 6 liters. Pour over cold water just to cover the ingredients, and over a medium heat bring to the simmer. Skim and then simmer uncovered for 30 minutes, skimming again as necessary. Strain through a muslin cloth or a fine sieve and correct the seasoning to taste with salt and pepper. May be refrigerated or frozen. If refrigerated, bring to a boil every 2 days to keep from spoiling. (Yields about 2 cups).

From Stock to Chicken Soup is not a long step. For descriptions of chicken soups the world over and a few recipes, click here.

© Daniel Rogov